Question for "Blow Out the Water Line" gurus

I drain my fresh tank by letting the pump run until it's sucking air, then I turn it off, hook air up to the park water connector and blow out the lines ... worked for me past several years. there's probably a little water that stays in the pump line... never thought about it really.

When I open my low point drains and also when I open the drain on the water heater, The down stream side of the pump drains. My tricky part is clearing the line from the pump to the fresh water tank. I will drain the tank, then run the pump until it's just spitting air.

Bobbo wrote:
I have always used the pink stuff, but am thinking of coming over to the dark side. (DW asks "why"?)

My question: There is pex tubing from the water pump to the first junction going up to a faucet/shower. Since there is a backcheck valve in the pump that won't let the air pressure clear the pump or line, how do I get the water out of the pump and the section of tubing from the pump to the first junction?

I gotta side with the DW WHY?

You just answered your first reason why blowing out the lines does NOT guarantee that all lines and low points will be void of water. Each and every RV is different where water might remain.

Which is why when you winterized using the pink stuff all this time you have not had any broken lines. You fill those lines with the pink and you know they are all filled.

Air can not 100% guarantee all the water is gone, which your reference to 'coming over to the dark side' might be just that!

Yup, I am 'not' a blow out water guru just saying siding with the DW, and you do know what price you will have to pay from the DW if a line does freeze don't you? :B

Simple:

I do both.

First blow the lines with air then use the pink stuff. Much less dilution of the pink stuff from any water in the lines.

If you have a black tank flush do not forget to blow that line.

To clear the pump and it's lines...

Option: (I recommend but it's not really necessary)
Take a towel (Dish size will work) and placing it under the pump inlet strainer open the inlet strainer compartment (Some water will be lost, intake line will drain back into fresh tank which has open drain to ground,, Towel catches water)

After the first Blow of the lines,, Turn on pump for 30 seconds to a minute, Pump is designed to run dry without damage.. Turn off pump, re-assemble intake strainer housing, Wring out towel (outside so it drips on ground) and hang up to dry.

Other option is just run the pump... But this will leave water in the intake strainer housing.

Been just blowing out my lines for years. Funny, RVers will not blow out their lines, but pump them full of pink stuff and swear that doing it any other way will freeze and damage the lines. Some of those same RVers blow out their underground sprinkler lines in their front and back yard and never give it a thought. :B

I used to drain and blow out with air only. Had good results for many years. With different RV I do both now. Reason I had to buy valve for toilet 2 years in a row. I think I have a low spot and can't get out all of the water, with just air. I have pink stuff on hand for sink drain anyways.

Stopped blowing out the Rigs lines many years ago - It now stays in a heated barn

100% agree with Wyo Traveler every year we blow out the 140 or so sprinkler heads in the lawn and the several hundred feet of under ground pipes never an issue with freezing even in Montana.

Never could understand putting that pink stuff in anything

I drain fresh water tank then run pump until it spits and then after water quits dripping from low point drains I crack open pump discharge fitting, toilet water line fitting and outside shower hose until they drip.

Don't even blow out lines. Just a splash of anti freeze in 'P' traps and waste tanks.

YES we are in AZ but last year temps where 19*F and 3" snow

Been blowing out lines for 36 years. Thousands of RV's motorhomes and Towables. We Warranty our work. NEVER had a customer come back with freeze damage. IF DONE CORRECTLY, Blowing out is the best way to go. That said, MOST Rv'ers will have NO clue how to do it correctly and MOST will not have a large capacity Air tank to keep up the required volume of air to do the job correctly. There are multiple items that MOST forget
1. Toilet valve
2. Black Flush Valve
3. Dishwasher valves and pump if equipped
4. Clothes washer solenoids AND drain pump if equipped
5. Icemaker and water thru the door if equipped
6. Following the Correct procedure for a Hydronic heating system, which cannot just be blown out. It must have antifreeze run thru it once blown out.
7 ALL P traps, even the one behind the Clothes washer if Antifreeze not pumped into and out of the washer.
8. The fresh water pump in line filter and running antifreeze thru it(water pump)1 cup is all it takes.
9. LAST! Water FILTERS are always missed. Especially Monaco type systems that may have 2 or 3 large canister filters in series. Doug