"Best" way to weather proof 12 volt elec connection

RJsfishin wrote:
quote
wondering if there is something better.
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That sounds like liquid tape/plastic has failed ???
I can't even get the dam stuff off w/ a knife, don't know how it can get better than that. Sure beats SW IMO !

i would have to agree, i use this stuff with winch contactors that go under water regularly. 0 issue and some of the installs are over 10 years old, even direct pressure washer pressure doesn't hurt the coating.

Switch is under vehicle and will be exposed to all weather and probably 14 or 16 gauge plastic coated wire.


The man asked a specific question. He was offered answers. Guess some of the more hilarious ones were offered by those who never drove in winter on salted roads.

I used wire nuts on home Romex connections down here. Squirted silicone into each 3M wire nut. People who don't do this have surprise blackout events.

Wire nuts. When I catch my stick & brick in a passing lane then I'll start using wire nuts on my rig.

But I digress -- I forgot some folks change rigs or give up the lifestyle more frequently than I change underwear. Quicksilver is well into it's 2nd decade approaching it's 3rd.

You can't do that!

It's It's It's......TOO GOOD!

3oaks wrote:
It's not "rocket science". Many of the suggestions here will outlast our RVs, I am sure. Some of the suggestions appear to go way "overboard" than is actually necessary. :R

Years ago connections made with a wire nut and wrapped with nothing but black electrical tape lasted for years and never did fail for as long as I owned the camper. :)

Not to say that is the way to go today with all the new connectors and materials on the market. Just saying we are not sending our RVs to the moon or diving to the ocean floor in them. 'Least I hope not. :B

X2, most of my connections are wire nuts and electrical tape. If I have some handy at the time, silicone grease (not caulk) goes in the nut first.

3oaks wrote:
Not to say that is the way to go today with all the new connectors and materials on the market. Just saying we are not sending our RVs to the moon or diving to the ocean floor in them. 'Least I hope not. :B

Darn! Guess I’ll just return my new waterproof camera and the helmet too. :-)

quote
wondering if there is something better.
--------------------------------------
That sounds like liquid tape/plastic has failed ???
I can't even get the dam stuff off w/ a knife, don't know how it can get better than that. Sure beats SW IMO !

It's not "rocket science". Many of the suggestions here will outlast our RVs, I am sure. Some of the suggestions appear to go way "overboard" than is actually necessary. :R

Years ago connections made with a wire nut and wrapped with nothing but black electrical tape lasted for years and never did fail for as long as I owned the camper. :)

Not to say that is the way to go today with all the new connectors and materials on the market. Just saying we are not sending our RVs to the moon or diving to the ocean floor in them. 'Least I hope not. :B

RTV 3145 under shrink tubing. Put a dab of this at the ends of the tubing before you shrink it and shrink until it oozes out the ends.

Why would a termination that had heat shrink applied have to be cut apart? Pull the wire and it pops off. A sealant compound like 3M dries gooey like tar.

But to reiterate the Packard terminal would not heat up nearly as much under a 20-amp load as would a standard push on terminal.

And tar, is exactly what I used on the mast electrical connections of the Kelley. Laughing, I have to say as thick as the stuff went on, it would equal three thousand coats of Liquid Tape.

SidecarFlip wrote:
I just use di-electric grease on exposed connections. I gob it on and connect. Been doing that on 110 volt tank heaters for our stock tanks for years now with never a weather related issue.

I agree dielectric grease is the best way...

dielectric grease is nothing more than silicone grease, which can be purchased at napa under the sil-glide name

when crimping the connectors on the wire, dip the bare end of the wire in the grease before inserting and crimping... then add more grease before sliding the spade connector into its socket...
and its still easy to disconnect, unlike adhesive heat shrink which needs to be cut out and new connectors installed whenever it needs to be taken apart.

silicone/dielectric grease is the only true "waterproof" grease, so it wont wash out or become hygroscopic.
so as long as you can fill the cavity with it, it will displace the air and prevent moisture, which is the main source of a connection failing.
the silicone grease also helps to dissipate any heat that "over amping" the connection may cause, and will help to keep it from toasting itself to failure.

Be careful with using silicone for electrical connections

Might be a good idea to always include the identifier when using the word silicone.

People confuse SEALANT with GREASE.

Silicone sealant

Silicone grease