Timeking wrote:
Question: About how many tubes of caulk should I order to do all of the old cracking caulk on a 28 ft TT?
I figure someone on here had done this job, and would know 'about' how much self-leveling goo is required. The quote to have someone do this for me was $660. Wow!
Thanks in advance.
This may help guide you as you did not say how old the camper is or what shape the old caulk is in.
If the old caulk is cracked and crumbly, and you are replacing all the old with new, (which is a very wise thing to do on an old camper, replace and start fresh with touch up as needed in the years to come) then:
After doing a 30 ft camper re-roof with no caulk on it, I use qty. 8 to 9, 10 oz. tubes to caulk the entire roof. Out of those tubes, I use 1 to 1 1/2 tubes of non sag, non self leveling to do the tops of the gutter rails to the membrane and the rest I use self leveling caulk on the top horizontal surfaces.
A few tips, to spread the non sag lap sealant, Dicor or Alfa brands, I use a light soapy wet finger to gently tap tap tap the fresh puddle into the right location if you cannot gun apply perfect. Best is to not over apply, add more if needed if it is too light. Too much caulk and you have to get rid of some to not make a mess. Then gently smooth in light strokes with the wet finger. Do not press hard or you will break the skin and be into the goo puddle. A tiny skin forms as the caulk hits the air and it can breakthrough very quickly with pressure. You will find the sweet spot, too light does nothing, too much is a mess. If your finger starts dragging, it's too dry, stop and a light finger rewet and keep going. Apply about 4 to 5 feet and go back and smooth out, then reapply more. Do not pump the entire length of the camper gutter rail and then start smoothing, pending temperature it will start to set too quick and not smooth out as nice.
Do not apply in the hot sun, or on a hot camper, 75 - 80F plus, it cures too quick and will start early shrinking/wrinkles as it fully cures. If outside when applying, do on cooler, 70F or lower low sun days. If you are doing inside a building, then there are not as many issues, out in the hot sun is what causes the issues.
Make sure when caulking the moldings to the roof or siding, you have to contact the molding and the roof with good contact. Three quarters to all the way to the top of the molding, like the front seam, is good. If you have a small fillet of caulk, it will shrink as it cures and ages and pull away from the molding starting a leak.
Good luck and ask for more as needed.
Hope this helps,
John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.
