Re-packing bearings

[TLLOYD]

I have a 2007 Fuzion fifth wheel and paid $125 per axle (X3 axles) 2 years ago to have the bearings serviced. I can't see paying that again when it seems easy enough to do it myself.

I took the tire and hub off to get a look at it. Was easy enough to get castle nut, washers and bearings out. It all looked good and still had red bearing grease. I don't take it out much.

Question I have is that there is a zerk fitting on the end of the axle shaft. I assume this if for maintenance purposes for pumping in some grease before trips? The bearings and end cap had a good amount of grease in/on them, but the cavity between the inner and outer bearings did not.

After I repack the bearings, do I need to pump grease into the zerk fitting? If so, how much and does the cavity between the bearing need to be filled? I am asuuming not because it wasn't after I had it serviced at the shop, but I want to make sure I do it the right way before my next trip.

It would take a lot of grease to fill that cavity and the only way to know it is full is when the grease comes out of the outer bearing.

How often should I be re-packing the bearings?

Thanks

[Ron3rd]

sh410 wrote:
The Dexter Axle website states that while turning the hub slowly, tighten the castle nut to 50#. The without turning the hub, back the castle nut and then tighten the castle nut finger tight, then back of until the castle nut lines up with the cotter key hole.

Dexter Axle

That's the technique I used too; I just followed the Dexter instructions. As mentioned, you torque the nut to their spec, rotate the wheel, then back the nut off to the first hole and you're done. Never had a problem in 9 years.

[rjsurfer]

mapguy wrote:

Learjet wrote:
AL-KO manual (0.001"-0.010" end
play)

If any of you researched the bearing specifications -the above range of adjustment would be found. These bearings need some play but at the tight end of the range is not in the "feel" range to most. I shoot for .002 or so but will accept up to 0.010 depending on how the particular axles locking style dictates. I do use a dial indicator too. Easy/peasy with a mag mount.

The hub cavity should never be packed full -even with the zerk lube axles offered by Dexter, Al-ko, reliable, QEP/Rockwell, LCI or whomever. Hub cavity needs enough grease to prevent corrosion at a minimum. Beyond that is just a waste.

I agree, another reason not to load up with grease before putting the drum back on is because when you slide the drum back on you may pick up some of that extra grease on the grease seals and push it into the brake assembly area where it might get on the linings.

Ron W.

[mapguy]

Learjet wrote:
AL-KO manual (0.001"-0.010" end
play)

If any of you researched the bearing specifications -the above range of adjustment would be found. These bearings need some play but at the tight end of the range is not in the "feel" range to most. I shoot for .002 or so but will accept up to 0.010 depending on how the particular axles locking style dictates. I do use a dial indicator too. Easy/peasy with a mag mount.

The hub cavity should never be packed full -even with the zerk lube axles offered by Dexter, Al-ko, reliable, QEP/Rockwell, LCI or whomever. Hub cavity needs enough grease to prevent corrosion at a minimum. Beyond that is just a waste.

[time2roll]

sh410 wrote:
The Dexter Axle website states that while turning the hub slowly, tighten the castle nut to 50#. The without turning the hub, back the castle nut and then tighten the castle nut finger tight, then back of until the castle nut lines up with the cotter key hole.

Dexter Axle

And then cram the hub full of grease right? :R

[westend]

cougar88nw wrote:

westend wrote:

cougar88nw wrote:
If the seal is not leaking and the grease looks great ( and there's enough of it) I would just re-install the hub, adjust the brakes and go camping.

I just repacked the bearings and replaced the seals on my 12 year old TT, the bearings and seals were original and still looked great but I figured it was time to replace the seals. I used Amsoil Synthetic HD(Moly fortified) wheel bearing grease, it exceeds Dexter's specifications and because it's synthetic I feel comfortable going a little longer between inspections and repacking. This is only my second time repacking and the grease and bearings looked new. I don't have the EZ Lube axles.

If you need to repack or replace the seals, repack bearings, the bearing packers listed below do a better job and less mess too.

KD Bearing Packer
Lisle Bearing Packer

Be sure you don't over tighten the bearings if you do repack them. Best way to do this is to repack the bearings, replace the seal, apply a thin layer of grease on the spindle, re-install the hub (on the spindle), install outer bearing, washer, nut, hand tighten with pliers-channel locks-adjustable wrench-etc, spin the hub a few times, hand tighten the nut again, spin the hub again. After all that back off of the nut until the cotter pin slides into the hole on the spindle, most of the time you can actually rock the nut back and forth a little after the cotter pin is installed.....you don't want it to be too tight. Install the dust cap and spin the hub a few times, if you did it right, there will be a little back and forth play when you grab the hub/drum on either side and wiggle it. This play is more noticeable if you install the wheel and wiggle it while the wheel/tire is off the ground.

There are as many ways to do this process as there are owners, I guess. I was taught to tighten the castle nut down until the bearings are set and then back off the nut so that the wheel spun freely. There are actually torque values for some spindle assemblies. I never leave the wheel with side or longitudinal play (slight wobble). That would indicate there is something wrong.

Can we agree to disagree??:C I have been repacking wheel bearings for 30+ years (auto mechanic by trade)and if there isn't a slight amount of play when your are done....you will overheat the bearing! As for the cavity between the bearings, you can add extra grease if it makes you feel better, it will not hurt anything. In an overheating situation this grease would probably loosen up and make its way to the bearings but if the spindle/bearings are that hot, you have already got trouble. I usually put a little in the cavity and when I pull the hub a few years or miles later, the grease is right where I left it, on the spindle and in the cavity and it looks unused.

We sure can agree to that. I was in the trade, too.

[Learjet]

AL-KO manual (0.001"-0.010" end
play)

[Lynnmor]

PaulJ2 wrote:
No matter ever which way you do it there needs to be a tiny bit of play when you are done to allow the grease to get between the rollers and the race.
No play? Metal on metal and overheating.

You said it better than I did. That is the way conventional wheel bearings have been adjusted for the past 100 years.

[PaulJ2]

No matter ever which way you do it there needs to be a tiny bit of play when you are done to allow the grease to get between the rollers and the race.
No play? Metal on metal and overheating.

[sh410]

The Dexter Axle website states that while turning the hub slowly, tighten the castle nut to 50#. The without turning the hub, back the castle nut and then tighten the castle nut finger tight, then back of until the castle nut lines up with the cotter key hole.

Dexter Axle

[cougar88nw]

westend wrote:

cougar88nw wrote:
If the seal is not leaking and the grease looks great ( and there's enough of it) I would just re-install the hub, adjust the brakes and go camping.

I just repacked the bearings and replaced the seals on my 12 year old TT, the bearings and seals were original and still looked great but I figured it was time to replace the seals. I used Amsoil Synthetic HD(Moly fortified) wheel bearing grease, it exceeds Dexter's specifications and because it's synthetic I feel comfortable going a little longer between inspections and repacking. This is only my second time repacking and the grease and bearings looked new. I don't have the EZ Lube axles.

If you need to repack or replace the seals, repack bearings, the bearing packers listed below do a better job and less mess too.

KD Bearing Packer
Lisle Bearing Packer

Be sure you don't over tighten the bearings if you do repack them. Best way to do this is to repack the bearings, replace the seal, apply a thin layer of grease on the spindle, re-install the hub (on the spindle), install outer bearing, washer, nut, hand tighten with pliers-channel locks-adjustable wrench-etc, spin the hub a few times, hand tighten the nut again, spin the hub again. After all that back off of the nut until the cotter pin slides into the hole on the spindle, most of the time you can actually rock the nut back and forth a little after the cotter pin is installed.....you don't want it to be too tight. Install the dust cap and spin the hub a few times, if you did it right, there will be a little back and forth play when you grab the hub/drum on either side and wiggle it. This play is more noticeable if you install the wheel and wiggle it while the wheel/tire is off the ground.

There are as many ways to do this process as there are owners, I guess. I was taught to tighten the castle nut down until the bearings are set and then back off the nut so that the wheel spun freely. There are actually torque values for some spindle assemblies. I never leave the wheel with side or longitudinal play (slight wobble). That would indicate there is something wrong.

Can we agree to disagree??:C I have been repacking wheel bearings for 30+ years (auto mechanic by trade)and if there isn't a slight amount of play when your are done....you will overheat the bearing! As for the cavity between the bearings, you can add extra grease if it makes you feel better, it will not hurt anything. In an overheating situation this grease would probably loosen up and make its way to the bearings but if the spindle/bearings are that hot, you have already got trouble. I usually put a little in the cavity and when I pull the hub a few years or miles later, the grease is right where I left it, on the spindle and in the cavity and it looks unused.

[randallb]

Lubes need to remove heat from the wedge created by the lubricant and the rotational item being lubricated. This heat travels better through the lubricant than it does through air. Fill the hub cavity and you will never need to replace a bearing.
Randy.

[Lynnmor]

westend wrote:

cougar88nw wrote:
If the seal is not leaking and the grease looks great ( and there's enough of it) I would just re-install the hub, adjust the brakes and go camping.

I just repacked the bearings and replaced the seals on my 12 year old TT, the bearings and seals were original and still looked great but I figured it was time to replace the seals. I used Amsoil Synthetic HD(Moly fortified) wheel bearing grease, it exceeds Dexter's specifications and because it's synthetic I feel comfortable going a little longer between inspections and repacking. This is only my second time repacking and the grease and bearings looked new. I don't have the EZ Lube axles.

If you need to repack or replace the seals, repack bearings, the bearing packers listed below do a better job and less mess too.

KD Bearing Packer
Lisle Bearing Packer

Be sure you don't over tighten the bearings if you do repack them. Best way to do this is to repack the bearings, replace the seal, apply a thin layer of grease on the spindle, re-install the hub (on the spindle), install outer bearing, washer, nut, hand tighten with pliers-channel locks-adjustable wrench-etc, spin the hub a few times, hand tighten the nut again, spin the hub again. After all that back off of the nut until the cotter pin slides into the hole on the spindle, most of the time you can actually rock the nut back and forth a little after the cotter pin is installed.....you don't want it to be too tight. Install the dust cap and spin the hub a few times, if you did it right, there will be a little back and forth play when you grab the hub/drum on either side and wiggle it. This play is more noticeable if you install the wheel and wiggle it while the wheel/tire is off the ground.

There are as many ways to do this process as there are owners, I guess. I was taught to tighten the castle nut down until the bearings are set and then back off the nut so that the wheel spun freely. There are actually torque values for some spindle assemblies. I never leave the wheel with side or longitudinal play (slight wobble). That would indicate there is something wrong.

cougar is correct, there will be a SLIGHT wobble when it is adjusted right. There is to be a very small amount of running clearance.

[time2roll]

I agree that it is best for the hub to be empty.
Heat is transferred through the outer race to the hub, wheel and drum.

The manufactuerers recommend once a year for repack. IMO every 2 to 5 years is fine once you know it was done correctly.

[RAS43]

randallb wrote:
Contrary to popular belief the hubs should be full of grease. AIR DOES NOT TRANSFER HEAT and that is the primary purpose of having grease on the bearings. If the bearings are packed correctly and the hub cavity is full the heat generated has a greater contact area with the hub and the heat generated will dissipate much faster. Of course I only had 35 years of experience in the field.
Randy

I thought that the main reason to have grease on the bearings was for lubrication! Transfering heat is minimal.