recharge from engine storm stayed in Grand Forks

westend, I do try to not sleep while driving *grin*. But, yes, I did get some sleep.

That's it - the engine computer is too concerned with not overcharging and makes no allowance for colder countries. We don't drive far enough to keep the vehicle batteries charged in winter. Left a dome light on last night, its 20 below C and the Black and Decker smart charger is pouring 20 amps into the battery at 16 volts. The engine never goes over 14.4.

A DC to DC voltage step up device is probably necessary to get effective charging from the engine. Or powerful lights to illuminate the solar panels.

Incidentally, it is confusing to see "amps per hour" in these pages. Amps are already coulombs per hour. Amp hours per hour would make sense but the hours cancel out to make plain "amps".

My isolators are both solenoids. Each is wired with #8. When I had marine jars for all purposes I would some times "see" 70 amps (but only briefly and only if I was "testing" by running the roof air from the inverter).


It was so cold today I had to run the rv furnace to keep warm while driving. That gave a reading of 28 amps going from the engine to the house bank.

My chassis battery is now AGM--but not a telecom. I think the issue is that the telco jars are a higher voltage.

Because of the cold the solar panels were charging at 14.9 volts. That may be another factor.

When it warms up, I will test the alternator. My Vector charger can do that apparently.

Yes further investigation. A diode isolator would detect a full chassis battery and would have minimum charge for the house battery. A solenoid isolator would start draining the chassis battery causing the alternator to increase the charging. Possibly into 14.8V bulk or whatever the alternator is set for.

That was a long border wait!

I think you need to investigate the issue further. whether voltage regulation or a failing alternator or failing connections between alternator and house batteries, Something Ain't right.

If the engine AGM battery is only used as a starting battery and not deeply cycled then I'd not really worry abot the voltage it sees.

Seems all vehicle voltage regulation is about not OVercharging, and thinking 13.7v is more or less, just fine and dandy, always.

I love overriding that misconception at the twist of a dial.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi all,

I've been able to move along to Estevan, SK. Driving for 4 hours and waiting at the border for 2.5 hours appears to have recharged the bank. (that, and the solar).

I wonder if my local ford dealer could reset the ECU to a higher number now that I have an AGM starter battery too.

AFAIK, the modular Ford alternators (assuming that's what you have) have internal regulators that control output voltage. The vehicle ECU is at the mercy of the voltage regulator.

Good to hear you have batteries charged, again.

Were you able to get some sleep in all that wind?

Hi,

Many private lots do. But they are often a monthly rental.

SCVJeff wrote:
I seldom get into the cold areas like that, but don't parking lots have outlets for engine block heaters. Or am I living in the past?

Hi all,

I've been able to move along to Estevan, SK. Driving for 4 hours and waiting at the border for 2.5 hours appears to have recharged the bank. (that, and the solar).

I wonder if my local ford dealer could reset the ECU to a higher number now that I have an AGM starter battery too.

Hi OB,

Not open until May 1, but thanks for trying.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Grand Forks ND

Don, you may be able to find a spot for 120V over toward U of ND. I'd suggest to drive over there and ask a few young scholars. Most of these kids are good kids and willing to help.