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Recs for Solar Cut Off Switch?

Powertour
Explorer II
Explorer II
Looking for help finding some sort of cut off switch that I can mount on the wall inside my coach next to where the charge controller is currently mounted.

Side note: I'm pretty much hemmed into putting the cut off switch next to the charge controller due to the way the previous owner wired the array into the coach.

Trying to find anything that isn't big &/or big & ugly has proven to be an exercise in futility.

Thanks in advance!
2015 Itasca 25b Ford E350 V10
41 REPLIES 41

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Likely the solar + - is isolated from ground. IF your panels have a frame and IF the frame is grounded to the RV frame and IF the RV frame is not wood and IF ...

I'd likely switch the + ... Ohhh wait I didnt' do that. The $6 Home Depot 240V AC switch often used for A/Cs is 2 pole and switches both of my panel leads. Flame away and I'm aware that DC switching is not the same as AC switching.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
This probably doesn't make any sense, but my brain is frazzled.

The controller "controls" by switching either the pos or neg side of the array input. So if you have a switch on the "wrong" wire, AND the controller is grounded (whichever way), then you could have a situation where you haven't done anything?

Sorry, I know that could be totally stupid. ๐Ÿ˜ž
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
Don't know what counts as big and ugly, but you can use an ordinary 120v household light switch in the wall next to the controller. IMO not ugly, but might be too big, no idea. Doesn't matter if the wire being switched is 120v or 12v.

You can switch either the pos or neg "ARRAY" wire to the controller and it will cut off the array.

There might be a trick as to which wire to switch depending on whether the controller is positive or negative grounded and if it is grounded--in an RV no need to ground the array or controller, but who knows what an installer will do?

Or it might not make any difference no matter what. Somebody else who knows more can jump in on that as required.


I am not an expert on solar systems, but from my study, I believe that the positive leg should be switched, as opposed to the negative side. This is the same as wiring in 110V, where the positive side of a load should be switched, as opposed to the negative side.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
No pretty switches that I know of. WindyNation sells them https://www.windynation.com/switches-breaks
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Powertour wrote:
crcr wrote:
Are you wanting to shut off power from the solar panels to the controller? If yes, why? If your batteries are full and your solar controller is a good one and is working correctly, it will never put more power into the batteries than what they need. That's what the controller is for.


Correct. There are times when I'm going to need to service (clean terminals, top off water etc) or change out the batteries & at times like that I don't want everything 'hot'.


Missing is the requirement for some controllers (Morningstar's for example) to not be left with the array connected and the battery not. Must follow sequence! Hence the need for a switch on the array side.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Powertour
Explorer II
Explorer II
crcr wrote:
Are you wanting to shut off power from the solar panels to the controller? If yes, why? If your batteries are full and your solar controller is a good one and is working correctly, it will never put more power into the batteries than what they need. That's what the controller is for.


Correct. There are times when I'm going to need to service (clean terminals, top off water etc) or change out the batteries & at times like that I don't want everything 'hot'.
2015 Itasca 25b Ford E350 V10

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
deleted about the 120v switch being ok--not.

You can switch either the pos or neg "ARRAY" wire to the controller and it will cut off the array.

There might be a trick as to which wire to switch depending on whether the controller is positive or negative grounded and if it is grounded--in an RV no need to ground the array or controller, but who knows what an installer will do?

Or it might not make any difference no matter what. Somebody else who knows more can jump in on that as required.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
Itinerant1 wrote:
If needing to disconnect panels from system it's as easy as pushing a button.



Actually, you should have two DC breakers like that, one between the solar panels and the controller, and one after the controller, before the inverter, so that you can completely isolate the controller from the system if need be. It looks like that's how this system is wired, and that's how I wired my system.

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Little disconnect switch
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Itinerant1
Explorer
Explorer
If needing to disconnect panels from system it's as easy as pushing a button.

12v 500ah, 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,500+ partial cycles.

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
Are you wanting to shut off power from the solar panels to the controller? If yes, why? If your batteries are full and your solar controller is a good one and is working correctly, it will never put more power into the batteries than what they need. That's what the controller is for.