Refrigerator draw on LP mode

Chum lee wrote:


Yes, I can read. (thank you!) Yes, absorbtion refrigerators ARE very efficient, (you are incorrect) that's why they are used in RV's in the first place. Ooops, ya missed that one didn't you? I do understand how they work. When in electric mode, the 325 watt 120 volt heating element operates on a duty cycle, (just like the propane flame) far less than 100%, unless it's in start up cooling mode or you keep the refrigerator door open. You will need more than the standard battery (2 batteries) bank to insure reliability over the night and in times of cloud cover. For extended periods lacking solar, you can simply switch back to propane, if necessary. Please excuse me while I go get a cold beverage from my solar powered Dometic 2652 absorbtion fridge, which, . . . . doesn't work.

Chum lee

Hate to tell you this one, my Home fridge conversion uses VASTLY less energy than ANY RV absorbsion fridge, period.

I HAVE measured not only the wattage drawn while running, but the startup surge and the overall run time per hr.

Compressor fridges do not run 100% of the time 24/7, they too CYCLE.

Mine averages only 22 minutes PER HR of compressor run time for 60F to 110F ambient temps.

Draws max of 90W running and startup surge lasts micro seconds.

The inverter I use a Tripplite PV1250 has a load sense control which turns the inverter on/off with 120V load demand. I ahve mine setup that the fridge light will turn the inverter on when the door is opened and off when the door is closed. Inverter draws less than 100 ma from the battery while it is off which is less than a RV fridge control board (which a RV fridge control board runs 24/7).

With the way I have setup my trailer, I can easily run the fridge, all the lights, some entertainment for many hrs plus the furnace the entire night when needed on only ONE pair of 6V GC2 batteries for 24hrs without needing to recharge.. And no, I do not have any solar either.

You will never, ever do that with your idea of running a RV fridge with a 325W heating element, period.

Absorbsion cycle is HIGHLY INEFFICIENT, you are wasting a lot of energy in heat going up the stack (325W worth). RV fridges are also very slow at recovery which means you open the dor even for a couple of seconds it will take an hr or more to recover from that event wasting more energy in the process.

My compressor fridge on the other hand is only wasting a mere 90W of energy in heat and it recovers very quickly when the door is opened unlike a RV fridge which can take hrs to recover.

You have not really done any real research other than assumptions, I have done my research, I have done my homework.

And by the way, my first trailer had a RV fridge, couldn't hold a candle to my home fridge when it comes to holding a steady temperature.. The RV fridge I had, would get a good roasty 50F in daytime temps of 100F and at night when the outdoor temps dropped to the 70's well everything would freeze solid.. Had to chip the milk out of the bottle.. And carrying ice cream was a no no, don't like melted ice cream during the day that gets refrozen at night..

Don't have that issue with my home fridge, keeps a nice constant 34F-36F in the fridge and the freezer keeps my Ice cream rock hard 24/7 as the way it should be..

Come over to the "dark side", you will never ever want another RV fridge once you try a real fridge.