Refrigerator Outside Vents

More importantly, what was used to cut the plywood? A Rat?

I agree that what you had is not right but what you have now is not right either. As was said earlier look at the install manual for your reefer and it will give very specific info on what is required to properly vent a side vent reefer, which is different than a top vent.

Sam

I would add an angled baffle at the top and not rely on insulation batting to stay put. It will also create a smoother surface for air to flow past.

Also it looks like you need a vertical baffle to force the air over the top coil set.

I really don't understand why you don't read the installation manual and do what it says. Look for the one for your model number. For example: Page 9.

Interesting, you can see where somebody in manufacturing started to cut the bottom out and then stopped. you have to wonder if a coworker saw it and stopped them before the cut was finished.

As far as the top piece if you look close you can see it is outside of the fins and there is a gap allowing hot air to flow up behind it and cause the bubble in the space on top of the refrigerator.

OP I would definitely create a new top seal that better blocked off the dead space. As far as the fin opening you should find the install manual online and see what the specs say. The manual will be very specific as to opening size and clearances from each side and back.

Which brings up another question. Can someone use some self stick foil ductwork tape (no not cheap $2 duct or duck tape) to seal all the edges of the baffles to the refrigerator? Or does the refrigerator put of too much heat?

OP here. Like always appreciate the feedback. I should have mentioned that I did fill space with a bat of insulation that ends at the edge of the fridge. So, there is no dead air space. As for the heat dissipating from the fins; I agree that the lower board directed the fan across it. But I have a hard time seeing that a fan in a enclosed space is more effective than a fan that is still focused on the fins with more access to air flow. The fan is still 6-7 inches below the edge of the board, so I don't feel like the air flow or direction was really affected. But I'm always open to you guys with the positive feedback and directions.

Glad your fridge is doing so well. We had the rv fridge problems for 3 years and finally got it right. All about air flow and chimney effect. We added a piece of aluminum flashing at the top vent to direct the air out after we slowed the outside air turbulence down.

opnspaces wrote:
Hey jkwilson, which piece, top (finished piece of dark wood exposing gap at top of refrigerator) or bottom (splintered piece exposing fins)? OP cut out two different pieces. Are you saying he should have left both pieces alone?

Both. The top of the refrigerator should be insulated and enclosed to prevent the hot air from collecting. The baffle should extend to the top of the plumbing on the back of the refrigerator to force the air to flow through it.

we had a similar situation with a previous trailer, not the vents but the space above the fridge. the fridge "cabinet" was sized for a larger 2 door fridge but a smaller single door fridge was used. there was a 10 or 12 inch high space above the fridge unused and open to the "chimney" area.

i opened it up on the inside of the trailer and installed a box to close it in from the outside and added a cabinet door. bonus storage space!!

a side effect of this was a better running fridge!

our fridges are meant to be installed in a closed space with almost zero clearance except for the back which is technically "outside". the "chimney area is supposed to sealed from the rv living area

opnspaces wrote:
Hey jkwilson, which piece, top (finished piece of dark wood exposing gap at top of refrigerator) or bottom (splintered piece exposing fins)? OP cut out two different pieces. Are you saying he should have left both pieces alone?

The section closing off the dead space on top of the actual refrigerator box should have been left there. It is required so an air pocket doesn't form which will acually block off/disrupt the flow of the air thru the coils on the back of the refrigerator. This problem is much like AFAIK the tailgate up/down when towing where leaving the tailgate up creates an air pocket in the bed of the pickup where the air flow then flows smoothly over this air pocket instead of forming a turbulance in the bed of the pickup causing more drag. The air pocket that can form over this dead space on top of the refer can force the flow of air up closest to the refer out from the back of the refer and result in less actual air flow over the fins which are located near the back of the actual refer. That is to say now the actual air flow is concentrated more near the wall of the trailer and less close to the actual back of the refer.

Also, removing the other section along the outer wall of the trailer just inside the access door might also make air flow worse since now you are allowing air to escape to the outside thru the access door before it has a chance to flow over those top fins. I'm sure there are some specs on the sizing and positioning of that opening to maximize the air flow thru the fins is somewhere in the installation manual. It appears this installation doesn't have a top vent, but is vented thru that top access door if I'm understanding these pics correctly.

IMO the OP definitely made matters worse when he removed both those sections and is why folks need to think a little before blindly modding their trailer. Things like applicance, A/C, heating, systems installed in trailers are designed sometimes with very unique and specific requirements which if not followed results in them not functioning to their specs or even causing a hazardous condition (i.e. fire, ventillation, etc.)

Larry