Refrigerator ran off level

[Rmack1]

My Dometic Refrigerator was accidentally ran off-level for several hours. It now doesn't seem to freeze hotdogs after about four hours running level so far.

The bubble in my level was just outside the line, touching it.

Am I hosed? Is there anything to do besides replacing whole unit?

[bigfootford]

Bummer, you guys are going to run off one of the most helpful, knowledgeable contributors we have for appliances etc. Doug and Bryant's rv is all we have for help with weird problems with our appliances...
http://bryantrv.com

I thank both of them as often as I can... Why? At times threads like this end up in a pissing match without realizing who they are and what they have contributed and we need an answer to reach a proper resolution to an issue. Usually handled with PM's because the thread has ended just like this one is headed for.

Jim

[LarryJM]

dougrainer wrote:
Just because YOU are monitering the flue temp on LP and electric, That higher temp does not mean LP is better. Doug

That statement is INCORRECT the ARP system DOES NOT MEASURE FLUE TEMP, it measures the boiler tube temp. The LP flue is next to the boiler tube, but the ARP temp sensor is physically attached to the boiler tube and the install directions specifically warn about having it too close to either the flue tube or the elec heat probe tubes since those will give a false reading of what the true boiler temp is and that is what you want to monitor with the ARP system.

Larry

[LarryJM]

BennieH wrote:
Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.

I've noticed that also with my ARP boiler temp on AC running in the 350 to 360 range with the refer on LP it runs around 380 to 390 so I'm around 30deg higher boiler temp on LP than AC.

Larry

[Dave_H_M]

never mind

[Sam_Spade]

dougrainer wrote:

So, 37 years as a trained expert means nothing to you people:h

And it seems that you are saying that experience means nothing too.

While neither really is the case because even the best trained or most experienced people often make mistakes along the way.

Bottom line:
I don't give a TRA what the theory is.
I KNOW than mine will cool down roughly twice as fast on propane.
My perception might be off a little bit but not THAT much.

[pianotuna]

BennieH,

My ARP shows the same temperature on 120 volt and on propane.

BennieH wrote:
Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.

[dclark1946]

landyacht318 wrote:
Absorption fridges will go the way of the Dodo as solar gets cheaper.

The 12-24v DC compressor fridges are efficient. and can be improved further with more insulation and a proper install, venting condenser heat properly Same with 120vaAC fridges on an inverter.

Propane is for cooking.

I hope not. Where we dry camp we have heavy shade but do nicely with LP and have done so for many years. Because we have propane powered refrigerator we can dry camp with a single Trojan SCS 200 12V deep cycle battery and an EU1000 generator.

Solar is not for all campers.

[dougrainer]

Sam Spade wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

They will NOT do better on LP.

Well it seems that at least a half dozen of us are afflicted by the same delusion Doug.

Give it a rest please.

Why should I give it a rest???????? FACTS seem to bother you? Sorry, a layperson can have NO basis for stating LP is better than 120 as there can be to many variables. Lets say the LP pressure is slightly below spec, then the 120 will be a lot better. But the RV'er does NOT know he has low gas pressure, so he will have a half dozen stating 120 is better. Doug

[dougrainer]

BennieH wrote:
Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.

So, 37 years as a trained expert means nothing to you people:h Then lets just UP the LP pressure and get that boiler temp up 30 or 40 degrees higher. Then the refer will just be a sub zero miracle. Just because YOU are monitering the flue temp on LP and electric, That higher temp does not mean LP is better. The Makers of the Refers KNOW what the parameters should be. If they felt that 120 should be higher, all they have to do is install a slightly higher wattage 120 element. As I mentioned, Do you also monitor the 120 voltage when you take those ARP measurements. Is the voltage at 120 or higher? When testing is done for Service or warranty, Dometic and Norcold do not state to use LP only for testing. They want whatever is available which is 120 in a shop. They NEVER state after giving them the results (bad results), OH, do it on LP and then call us. Doug

[BennieH]

Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.

[Sam_Spade]

dougrainer wrote:

They will NOT do better on LP.

Well it seems that at least a half dozen of us are afflicted by the same delusion Doug.

Give it a rest please.

[dougrainer]

Sam Spade wrote:

Rmack1 wrote:
I turn it off to use the microwave, because that trips breakers in my friends system otherwise.

Wait.....what ?? When did this friend come into the picture ?

As several have mentioned, mine does MUCH better on propane.

Also the "hot dog" test depends on what else was in there with them and where they were located within the box.

At this point, I suggest that you test it on propane.
I don't trust mine on 110 until it has been on for maybe 24 hours and completely cooled down.

They will NOT do better on LP. LP and 120 are the almost exact same BTU heating. BUT, IF your 120 supply voltage is LOW(below 115 volts) then your refer will operate better on LP. The refer cannot control the input line voltage. YOU CAN. That is why a voltmeter is a GOOD tool to have. ALWAYS check your 120 volt in your RV. IF the Line voltage is below 115, then operate your refer on LP. If above, then the 120 and LP will cool the same. IF below 115 and you have NOT started your roof AC yet, odds are the line voltage will drop another 2 to 5 volts depending on the CG supply system. Doug

[Sam_Spade]

Rmack1 wrote:
I just freaked when I saw that the bubble was just outside the lines on my level, and the previously frozen sausages were soft.

Putting them in the door is exactly the wrong thing to do, as the door usually is a few degrees warmer than the inside. Things will freeze and stay frozen best when in direct contact with the inside cabinet near the back.....usually.

One can get a lot of good information on here but if you tend to be at all OCD or paranoid it can be too much information.

I've had my 8 year old, 45K miles C now for two years.
I've had a lot of annoying little problems with it but except for the tires I have had trouble with NONE of the items which get the most attention on here.

[mike-s]

dougrainer wrote:
Check your thermometer. Even a Residential freezer will NOT get 15 to 20 degrees BELOW 0(zero). Maybe you mean below freezing? (32 degrees). Doug

Perhaps he's measuring in degrees Celcius.