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Remote measurement of fridge and freezer temperatures

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
Have you found a good instrument for remotely measuring the temperatures of fridge and freezer?

I have been using an Acurite. It has been satisfactory except that when the batteries in the remote go dead the base station continues to give the previous reading and you don't know the batteries are dead.

Also the magnets that secure the base station to a metal surface came loose from the base station and when re-attached seem to have lost their magnetic properties.

So I am looking for something better. What has worked well for you?
11 REPLIES 11

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
hedgehopper wrote:
fj12ryder wrote:
How remote are talking about? Just with the doors closed in the trailer? Or if you gone from the trailer and want to check it?

I want to read the fridge and freezer temperatures without opening the fridge and freezer doors.
Gotcha, mine work great for that. And the batteries have been used off and on for about 3 years. I'm very happy with the battery life. I'll do some checking and see if I can find the name.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

obgraham
Explorer
Explorer
I have used Acurites in all my freezers, both at home and in the RV's, for a number of years. Never had a problem with them not working. I do, however, change out the batteries every year.

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
fj12ryder wrote:
How remote are talking about? Just with the doors closed in the trailer? Or if you gone from the trailer and want to check it?

I want to read the fridge and freezer temperatures without opening the fridge and freezer doors.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
FWIW the ones in my fridge and freezer have been in use several months easy and still going strong. But they are just to use while in the trailer, not with a phone or networked. I love 'em. No idea what brand, prolly just a cheap no-name from China.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The problem with battery operated RF remote sensors in the fridge and espically in the freezer is .. The batteries tend to not work. (And the frequency may drift)

Beyond that I can not say much.... Now designing a sensor.. It's easier than you think.. inside that Accurite is a small blob known as a thermisistor.. You need to remove it and "remote" it. (Add leads) then route the wires (There is already a path as there's already a thermisistor inside the fridge and a water line into the freezer) and hook the leads back to the sender OUTSIDE where it's warmer.

Alas.... I can not help you there. You will very likely destroy the thermistor (They are cheap but I know not the value> How cheap. oh 10 bucks for half a dozen give or take)

If they are the right value.... Well 3-D printers tend to eat 'em.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
How remote are talking about? Just with the doors closed in the trailer? Or if you gone from the trailer and want to check it?
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Flyfasteddie
Explorer
Explorer
hedgehopper wrote:
That's the same one we have been using. How do you tell when the batteries in the sensor go dead?


I use the same one. I have Eneloop rechargeable batteries in them and I just replace them with freshly charged ones once a year.

vermilye
Explorer
Explorer
If you carry a "Smart" phone, check out the SensorPush (Link). Long range bluetooth connection, logging over day, week, month, etc. I have one in the freezer & one in the refrigerator section. (I also use one for outdoor temperature.)

Second_Chance
Explorer II
Explorer II
Look into the YoLink systems. I don't monitor the temps in our residential fridge (it has digital readouts on it), but I monitor the temp in the basement, have water leak sensors in various places, and a power failure alarm that turns of some smart power strips so unneeded things don't drain the batteries (via the inverter) when just on batteries and solar.

YoLink on Amazon

Rob
U.S. Army retired
2020 Solitude 310GK-R
MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows
(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
2012 F350 CC DRW Lariat 6.7
Full-time since 8/2015

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
Dutch_12078 wrote:
This one from Acurite has worked well for us since 2016:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJVU78/
That's the same one we have been using. How do you tell when the batteries in the sensor go dead?

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
This one from Acurite has worked well for us since 2016:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJVU78/
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate