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right dehumidifier

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am going to get one for the 32' fifth wheel. I am concerned about keeping the humidity down when it is in storage.

I have one of the basement models for the big job in the stick home but think there is a solution for a much more portable one just for the fifth wheel.

I even read some on the Thermo Electric technology ones.

Sometimes it is pretty chilly out there in the barn so if I do not have to use heat to keep it warm while dehumidifying, that would be nice.

I may even take it with me in the winter to aid in taking moisture out when it is cold outside and the windows get wet inside.

Point me in the right direction please.
18 REPLIES 18

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
Larry-D wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
I assume that you can run the dehumidifier setting on a counter and draining in the the sink? then periodically you would have to go out and dump your grey tank? but yes I agree get a real standard dehumidifier.
bumpy


I worked a sailboat fire where the owner put a hole in the tank and ran the hose to a sink drain so he constantly didn't have to go to the dock to drain the tank. This particular brand used a "full tank" to shut off the unit and let it cool down. With no water filling the tank the unit overheated and caught fire. Totaled his underinsured boat.

Read the instructions carefully and don't alter the units.


I would think that if this was a widespread problem that the CPSC or somebody would not allow the garden hose connection to be built into them. as I have said, every one I have bought the last 20 years or so have had this provision for alternate draining.
bumpy

Larry-D
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bumpyroad wrote:
I assume that you can run the dehumidifier setting on a counter and draining in the the sink? then periodically you would have to go out and dump your grey tank? but yes I agree get a real standard dehumidifier.
bumpy


I worked a sailboat fire where the owner put a hole in the tank and ran the hose to a sink drain so he constantly didn't have to go to the dock to drain the tank. This particular brand used a "full tank" to shut off the unit and let it cool down. With no water filling the tank the unit overheated and caught fire. Totaled his underinsured boat.

Read the instructions carefully and don't alter the units.

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks for the input folks. I have a 42 pint on order that has two fan speeds and an automatic defrost.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
An open hearth furnace grade dehumidifier might be perfect for the Pacific Northwet when it's 47 degrees F with 85% R/H.

With tropical humidity it's a whole different animal. Ever shiver when the thermometer reads 82F? The definition is called clammy. A slight airflow blowing over super cold evaporator is the answer. Without icing up.

I loved it when my Panasonic made an 85 degree room 92 degrees and removed 7% relative humidity. The 5,000 BTU window unit was maxxed-out. I do own a stainless steel yacht sink dehumidifier and it reduced R/H by almost nine percent and raised room temperature less than 1 degree.

When I move to Denman island I'll bring my US Steel open hearth furnace.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Portable Home dehumidifiers are garbage. The last three failed in under a year.


my experience has been exactly the opposite. they are chugging away 24/7/365 in my basement.
bumpy

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Portable Home dehumidifiers are garbage. The last three failed in under a year.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
You might want to read this...

http://commutercruiser.com/which-dehumidifier-for-a-boat/


I read the first statement and immediately lost interest. EVERY home dehumidifier I have bought/seen has the option to fasten a garden hose on and drain it into a sink, etc. instead of the bucket.
bumpy

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Avoid thermoelectric units if you are interested in electrical efficiency. These work on the same principles as thermoelectric coolers for use in cars, and are a lot less energy efficient than the compressor-based units. (They are quieter.)

A standard dehumidifier is basically just an air conditioner or a refrigerator where the air moves over the evaporator (which cools it, condensing the moisture) and then over the condenser (which warms it back up); or, int he case of a thermoelectric unit, over the opposite sides of a peltier junction heat pump. If the ambient temperature is low enough, there's not much dehumidification that can possibly be done because the cooling results in frost buildup. Ambient temperatures in the 50's or 60's are fine (though efficiency goes up with warmer temperatures) and typical of basements; temperatures in the 30's are more of a lost cause, and obviously in subfreezing temperatures the system can't work at all.

fcooper
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with standard dehumidifier. I run one in the kitchen of the motorhome with the drain down the kitchen sink. Since the gray water tank was empty after the last trip, I just leave the valves open so that the water drains through the gray water tank and drips out on the gravel parking area.

One minor consideration if you are in an area with frequent power failures. Some electronic control dehumidifiers lose their settings during a power failure and will not resume operation when the power is restored. Look for a unit that retains settings and will resume operation when the power is restored.

The older, non-electronic control types will resume operation after a power failure also.

Fred
Fred & Vicki
St. Augustine, Florida

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
I assume that you can run the dehumidifier setting on a counter and draining in the the sink? then periodically you would have to go out and dump your grey tank? but yes I agree get a real standard dehumidifier.
bumpy

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
I agree on an additional small fan to circulate air.

I set mine to 45 percent humidity. So, whole coach probably averages just over 50 percent humidity.

And, likewise find it removes a lot (fills reservoir in 2 days)when coach first put in storage, but quickly tapers off to where the reservoir only needs to be emptied weekly.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

mabynack
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've got one that holds about a gallon and a half that I use for my FW here in Florida. I have to dump it twice a week in the summer and I found that I also need to use a fan to circulate the air in order for it to work correctly. I had it setup in the kitchen area and last fall I found that the pillows in the bedroom mildewed.

I keep the bathroom door partially opened and run a household fan on a timer. I keep the dehumidifier set on "medium" and dump it twice a week. It seems to control the mildew and smells in the RV.

About once a month I dump a little of the water from the dehumidifier down each of the drains in the RV to help keep smells from the holding tanks from coming up the drains.

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
go with the smallest REAL dehumidifer you can find at a big box store, around $100 typically. Usually holds 3-4 gallons, don't ask me how many pints that is.

We've used on for years, when first turned on it will pull two buckets full out in 24 hours, roughly 5-6 gallons of water. they run a compressor, basically a a/c unit, water condenses on the cooling coil. they will also give some heat to the trailer.

unless your in a real dry climate, stay away from the thermoelectric units, they can't pull anywhere near the water out that you need.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!