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Roof Sealant type

Seanharris
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure if I need to use self leveling or non-leveling on this part of the roof seam. I attached a pic. Any input appreciated, thanks!



Photo of roof seam
5 REPLIES 5

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
Listen to Doug. Dicor has been punishing us RVers for ever, with their cheap product. Sikaflex is a quality product that you don't have to inspect all the time, looking for cracks. I've been using Sikaflex-715 for years with never a crack.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
For the Area above the rail, I would use Sikaflex. As others have mentioned, the area MUST BE CLEAN. Sikaflex will not run and gives excellent adhesion to the various components. It is also paintable if you do not like the white contrast after applying. Doug

https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/transportation/rv/adhesives-sealants/roof-sealing/sikaflex-715.html

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
Seanharris wrote:
Not sure if I need to use self leveling or non-leveling on this part of the roof seam. I attached a pic. Any input appreciated, thanks!



Photo of roof seam


Hi,

A few things, zooming in on your picture, the texture of that roof surface looks like it may be TPO membrane. You should check what brand and type of roof you have knowing it is not an EPDM rubber roof. Pending the year and type, some TPO types has issues with the standard Dicor lap sealant affecting the TPO. Dicor has different formulas for this TPO issue. Alfa Systems who makes the Super Flex TPO also has a TPO compatible lap sealant if your roof is an Alfa roof.

Since that joint is the gutter rail, I would use non sag/non self leveling lap sealant. It will stay in place where you put it and you can smooth it out to make a nice clean fillet radius at that joint. See this response on the how to smooth it out. http://forums.trailerlife.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30373007/gotomsg/30373064.cfm#30373064

Something else, by zooming in, it looks like you never had any lap sealant in that joint. Some OEM's do not install it there to save $$. That is bad practice in my opinion. That joint needs to be sealed on top to have the camper last a long time.

And for sure, you have to clean out that joint totally clean. If there is mold in the joint after cleaning, tooth brush apply a bleach water solution to get ride of the mold. Let it sit wet for 10 to 15 minutes and rinse real well. Rinse any bleach splash on the siding and decals soon after applying.

None of the lap sealant brands will bond long term to dirt. Take the time now and fix it the right way.

Hope this helps

John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.

Seanharris
Explorer
Explorer
ok thanks, i was leaning that way after looking and seeing some ooze out on the bottom side. Was planning on cleaning with some iso-alchl and a brush.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would use Dicor self-leveling. It will move down toward ledge. Insure you clean surface good with stiff nylon brush.
OP's photo

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker