Okay so now I was curious is there any harm running my refer on my prowatt sw2000 full time when camping or traveling. I have a automatic switch but I notice if the compressor is running it still flinches when the switch over takes place. So what I was curious about is if I turn off the circuit that runs the refer and the entertainment center those circuits would be running full time on my inverter. When plugged into shore power or genny running the converter charger would still run keeping the batteries fully charged and supplying the power to actually run the inverter. So my question is when running inverter while converter is supplying power to the batteries do the batteries take a hit or does it do no harm because the converter is supplying the power.So more simply, any harm running the refer and entertainment center on the inverter full time. Will this cause any degradation of the batteries unnecessarily? I have a 60 amp 9200 series P/D converter charger. Thanks

While your converter is large enough that it will probably be able to keep up with the inverter draw, why add the wear & tear on the electronics of each, as well as the batteries? The transfer switch that Prowatt supplies is there so that you don't need to use the inverter when on shore power. The 'flitch" you describe is just the very short delay that takes place while the switch it making the transfer.

dave17352 wrote:Okay so now I was curious is there any harm running my refer on my prowatt sw2000 full time when camping or traveling. I have a automatic switch but I notice if the compressor is running it still flinches when the switch over takes place. So what I was curious about is if I turn off the circuit that runs the refer and the entertainment center those circuits would be running full time on my inverter. When plugged into shore power or genny running the converter charger would still run keeping the batteries fully charged and supplying the power to actually run the inverter. So my question is when running inverter while converter is supplying power to the batteries do the batteries take a hit or does it do no harm because the converter is supplying the power.So more simply, any harm running the refer and entertainment center on the inverter full time. Will this cause any degradation of the batteries unnecessarily? I have a 60 amp 9200 series P/D converter charger. ThanksThere is some loss going from AC to DC to AC. So you may burn say 20% more genset fuel doing it that way, and the batteries will charge more slowly, so you'll have to run the genset longer yet.I do it for my TV and Blu-Ray player, but that is only a 150W inverter, and I don't use a genset.Jim

If you are on shore power, the dual inefficiencies of turning 120 v AC into 12 v DC, then back into 120 v AC have already been pointed out, which wasted power turns into heat, which gradually will use up both converter and inverter, leading to early replacement of each.Into the bargain, a 2 kw inverter running a compressor style refer is going to suck a lot of power out of your batteries when not on shore power. If running down the road, your TV or MH alternator probably won't be able to keep up, so you will land with your house battery slightly discharged. Any time boondocking or not on shore power will use up battery pretty fast.A compressor refer uses around 650 watts when running, and around 2000 watts for a few seconds when starting up. (YMMV depending on which make and model and size is in question.) This is a 54 amp draw running, and a 167 amp draw when the compressor is starting up. This sort of load will suck your house batteries pretty fast. If you had a single group 24 battery, that load would pretty much deplete the battery in 30-40 minutes, and completely kill it in less than an hour, assuming 100% efficiency, which of course, you will not have.Given that your converter probably recharges your house batteries at the rate of 55 amps (or less, some are only 45 amps), while both inverter and refer are running, you will not be charging the house battery at all.

I see no harm in it although I think it would be better done with a sine wave unit. I have seen a half dozen units configured this way although the vast majority run it more conventionally...eg on shore when connected yo shore. I know the hiccup you are taking about during switch over. The way I avoid it is to turn the fridge off when doing the switchover. I do this with a remote disconnect for the AC going to the fridge. Then again I only seem to remember half the time and all is still well. :). Your fridge will only draw about 95 watts when running. Should you choose to do it the way you describe the converter or alternator will have no problem keeping up with this load.

naturist wrote:If you are on shore power, the dual inefficiencies of turning 120 v AC into 12 v DC, then back into 120 v AC have already been pointed out, which wasted power turns into heat, which gradually will use up both converter and inverter, leading to early replacement of each.Into the bargain, a 2 kw inverter running a compressor style refer is going to suck a lot of power out of your batteries when not on shore power. If running down the road, your TV or MH alternator probably won't be able to keep up, so you will land with your house battery slightly discharged. Any time boondocking or not on shore power will use up battery pretty fast.A compressor refer uses around 650 watts when running, and around 2000 watts for a few seconds when starting up. (YMMV depending on which make and model and size is in question.) This is a 54 amp draw running, and a 167 amp draw when the compressor is starting up. This sort of load will suck your house batteries pretty fast. If you had a single group 24 battery, that load would pretty much deplete the battery in 30-40 minutes, and completely kill it in less than an hour, assuming 100% efficiency, which of course, you will not have.Given that your converter probably recharges your house batteries at the rate of 55 amps (or less, some are only 45 amps), while both inverter and refer are running, you will not be charging the house battery at all.Just for a reference I have two batteries and my refrigerator pulls about a 110 watts when running about 360 watts when starting for a few moments. It is a 10.3 cubic foot refer. I have measured these and this is accurate. I appreciate all the opinions and hope to get many more.

running refer on inverter full time | Good Sam Community

John___Angela
Explorer
Apr 30, 2013
Most of the new model 22 cubic foot whirlpool, samsung etc etc all run around 1 amp at 120 volts while compressor on. Almost nothing when cycled off.
3_tons
Explorer III
Apr 30, 2013
dave17352 wrote:
3 tons wrote:
Personally, I would not attempt to run a compressor type refer using a ProWatt 2000 (actually rated at 1800w continuous) since this inverter is not robust enough for this type of load. The ProWatt 2000 is intended more for electronics needs.
wow I am going to have to disagree with you. As I said the refer draws about 360 watts on start up and a 100 watts while running. my inverter is rated for a surge of 3000 watts I don't see a problem.

Well in that case I gladly stand corrected, I had no idea a compressor type refer could draw that small amount :S what kind of refer and model is this?
2oldman
Explorer II
Apr 30, 2013
3 tons wrote:
Personally, I would not attempt to run a compressor type refer using a ProWatt 2000
Why?
dave17352
Explorer
Apr 30, 2013
3 tons wrote:
Personally, I would not attempt to run a compressor type refer using a ProWatt 2000 (actually rated at 1800w continuous) since this inverter is not robust enough for this type of load. The ProWatt 2000 is intended more for electronics needs.
wow I am going to have to disagree with you. As I said the refer draws about 360 watts on start up and a 100 watts while running. my inverter is rated for a surge of 3000 watts I don't see a problem.
3_tons
Explorer III
Apr 30, 2013
Personally, I would not attempt to run a compressor type refer using a ProWatt 2000 (actually rated at 1800w continuous) since this inverter is not robust enough for this type of load. The ProWatt 2000 is intended more for electronics needs.
2oldman
Explorer II
Apr 30, 2013
dave17352 wrote:
Will this cause any degradation of the batteries unnecessarily?
With 2 batteries it's going to be a close call when you're off shore for awhile. Otherwise I don't see any problem.
MrWizard
Moderator
Apr 30, 2013
there are a lot of Assumptions being stated above
we full time, our TV & PC etc are always powered by inverter
the fridge is on inverter unless the genset is running
this allows full charging power to be applied to the batteries

on the very rare times we connect to shore power , the fridge is powered by shore power

our fidge uses about 95>100 watts while running aka 0.9 amps 120v aka 9 amps 12v
even with conversion losses that is very little and not overloading the alternator while drving or the converter while parked

you are not going to hurt the fridge or the inverter, by staying on inverter
But
when on shore power, i prefer to power the fridge from shore so my batteries can rest and recuperate
the larger he battey bank the less of a concern this becomes,

i don't think excess heat is a conversion concern
but constantly charging the batteies with out ever reaching a full topped off charge is a concern
big_buford
Explorer
Apr 30, 2013
Dont know how often you boondock, It's about 90% of the time for me. Same power draw as your looking at. solar/ice machine
Just finshed up this system, very happy with the performance.
ng2951
Explorer
Apr 30, 2013
The other question is whether the TV can pump those many amps down the trailer plug. The length of the copper lines from the alternator to the converter and battery can be quite long. This resistance is what the alternator has to overcome to keep you batteries topped.

I use to have a TM3327 some years ago. The battery was in the very back of trailer, so the power cable was also very long, and it was quite common for the battery to be discharged after a day of driving and the refer running on DC. Some people would put in an AC line to take care of that problem, but my trailer got whacked before I dealt with that myself.
dave17352
Explorer
Apr 30, 2013
John & Angela wrote:
I see no harm in it although I think it would be better done with a sine wave unit. I have seen a half dozen units configured this way although the vast majority run it more conventionally...eg on shore when connected yo shore. I know the hiccup you are taking about during switch over. The way I avoid it is to turn the fridge off when doing the switchover. I do this with a remote disconnect for the AC going to the fridge. Then again I only seem to remember half the time and all is still well. :).

Your fridge will only draw about 95 watts when running. Should you choose to do it the way you describe the converter or alternator will have no problem keeping up with this
load.

This is along my line of thinking. My prowatt is a pure sine wave unit. I can turn the circuit breaker back on from the living area. I can hear when the compressor is running. I was just curious as to battery maintenance running off the converter full time.