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Rust Converter recommendation?

VAfan
Explorer
Explorer
Any recommendations for a rust converter that works? Have lots of rusty stuff; including the whole underneath of a vehicle. I have a friend that says something the military uses to spray vehicles used in Iraq works great, turns the rust purple....but he can't find the can.
24 REPLIES 24

VAfan
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone for the typical great information.

jsrore
Explorer
Explorer
X10.....Ospho

works great
2016 Montana 3790RD
2015 Ram 3500 Larmie
1998 BlueWater 18',fish/ski Boat
1 DW, 3 Dogs,
United States Navy 10yrs
Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of ALL who Threaten It!
Nothing but the good life,cool breeze plenty of Beer!

NHIrish
Explorer
Explorer
fluidfilm....very easy to use and stops the rusting process.
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS

2010 Carriage Cameo 32-FwS
2008 Carriage Cameo
2006 Keystone Cougar
2005 Keystone Zeppelin
1999 Coachmen Catalina

2017 Ford F350 Powerstroke
Curt Q25

Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock
:W

Rbertalotto
Explorer
Explorer
Ospho..... Amazing stuff. Spray it on with a garden sprayer and it reacts with the rust into a hard, epoxy like material.
RoyB
Dartmouth, MA
2021 RAM 2500 4X4 6.4L
2011 Forest River Grey Wolf Cherokee 19RR
520 w solar-200ah Renogy Li-Epever MPPT

alfredmay
Explorer
Explorer
My favorite is Hammerite Rust Cap
Alfred May
2005 Excursion V10 4.30 4x4
2002 Cedar Creek 30RBS TT by Forest River
Reese Dual Cam
Tekonsha Prodigy

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thanks for this thread, I need that.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Ospho's active ingredient to formulate iron oxide to another material is phosphoric acid. I've been using these rust reformulating products for years. I paint things like cooling towers, tanks, vehicles,and steel equipment.

One of the best iron/rust etching compounds is Martin-Senour Iron Etch. It is sold at auto body shops and is fairly expensive. It too, is phosphoric acid based.

Lately, I've been using water softener cleaner, the liquid stuff sold at most big box stores. It is inexpensive and contains a high concentration of phosphoric acid.

Besides Ospho, there are other rust formulation products that can be directly painted. Some work better than others. I've found that the additional rinsing step between applying an etchant and painting is worth the labor cost. I'm sure to get any materials off the surface that interferes with paint adhesion and, since I use scuff pads and brushes for this, it allows for better surface prep.

One further tip: Always apply a good primer before finish paint is applied. Since the general public becomes lazier as time goes forward, there are many "Primer and Paint" in one can being sold. I guess if I made and sold paint, I might make that product, also. It's a disservice to the consumer, IMO. One of the better metal primers is Sherwin-Williams Industrial DTM Primer. It's available through your local SW store. It will bond to different metals, directly, including aluminum.

Good luck with the painting!
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
trailerbob wrote:
Check on Ospho.


Ditto. Just bought a jug of it for restoring a couple of cars. Got it because of all the positive reviews I found. Supposed to be excellent stuff and can paint right over it. Ospho is a liquid that can be sprayed or brushed on and gets left on (not rinsed off). Phosphoric based products are not alike and are formulated differently.

I got my Ospho on Amazon. Lots of internet sources.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
An important point that hasn't been mentioned yet:

You should NOT worry about "the whole underside" of the vehicle beginning to rust. Those areas that rust first and the most won't cause a problem for about a hundred years.....because things like frame members are really thick AND the total oxidation slows down a bit once there is a good coating of rust on there (unless maybe it stays wet ALL of the time.)
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Naval Jelly does work. However, it removes the rust leaving a very clean surface that is ready for quick oxidation. When you rinse it off, IMMEDIATELY paint the surface. Otherwise, it will quickly develop another rust layer, like in minutes.

Been there, done that.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

DavidP
Explorer
Explorer
Loctite Naval Jelly works very well.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-553472-Fluid-Ounce-Dissolver/dp/B000C016OC

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
Blacklane stole my thunder. I used to use OSPHO but lately could not find it.

I found the last gallon in the paint prep section of home Depot.

I keep it in a quart spray bottle and kinda spritz it on. Watch out on the eye and skin protection and the stuff will permanently etch concrete if you let it drip on it.

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Years ago the Sherwin-Williams store recommended Skyco Ospho. It is not a paint. It is very thin like water and is liberally sprayed or brushed onto the rusted metal. Been using it at work with good results for years.

After one or two treatments the rust turns white or light gray. When dry you paint with the paint of your choosing. We use a good quality oil or alkyd base paint.
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2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
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LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
Loctite "EXTEND" EXTEND

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
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