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Screws backing out

lenr
Explorer II
Explorer II
The screws in the trim strip at the top of the sides of our trailer are backing out. The strip covers the rubber roof where it wraps around the edge and reaches down the side about 2". I presume that these screws go into wood roof framing. Some screws are actually pushing the plastic covering strip out of place. I found about half of them stripped such that they're hardly holding themselves in. What material could I squirt into the holes before putting the screw back in that would help hold them in place?
19 REPLIES 19

DS_Canuck
Explorer
Explorer
Keep in mind that Stainless Screws are not flexible and may snap off if stressed!

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
lenr wrote:
Wood glue?
Thought about Hard as nails, but wondered if it would be too hard, especially if the screws needed to be removed someday.

Don't overthink it. Any cheap wood glue or all-purpose glue. Not super-strong adhesives. You only need the toothpicks to stay in place, the screw will create pressure to hold it. A few toothpicks "might" hold the original size screw well enough, without going one size larger.

While you're at it, replace those failed screws with stainless ones, you won't regret.

Fleet_Man
Explorer
Explorer
we had that problem with our MH. Repaired at the Forrest City, IA Winnebago plant. In addition to screws backing out, they found screws corroded and broken off. New stainless steel screws were installed all the way around the roof trim in addition to completely recaulking the roof/sidewall seam.
2007 Winnebago Journey 34H
Toad, '08 Ford Taurus X
Blue OX, Aventa
US Gear UBS

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
DrewE wrote:
If you replace the screws, give strong consideration to using stainless ones.


Why?


The exposed heads, etc. of other types will rust over time, making future removal hard. If corroded enough they can of course eventually let go altogether. Yes, they're covered by a vinyl strip on the molding (for the application being mentioned here), but that's not 100% waterproof.

Stainless also prevents the threaded bit from corroding if the underlying wood they're screwed into gets damp, but I suppose if that's happening then rusting and failing screws may be the least of your concerns.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
I have found that when the screws pull out, either the wood underneath has been wet or the screws were too short to begin with. I usually drill extra holes in the outer trim strip and use 1.5 to 2 inch screws to secure the trim strip. 99% of the time this works. Trying to use toothpicks will NOT work in the long run. With longer screws you get into the wood farther to get enough of the threads to hold. Once you have secured it with longer screws, remove the screws and inject silicone type sealant into the holes and reinstall the longer screws. THEN make sure you seal the outer trim strip especially on top the screw heads. Doug

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
DrewE wrote:
If you replace the screws, give strong consideration to using stainless ones.


Why?
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

lenr
Explorer II
Explorer II
Glad I posted--I hope ideas keep coming. I try to stay away from mentioning the manufacturer when posting to stay away from brand shaming. I would guess that there are a bazillion trailers made with this type of construction, so I agree that I need to figure out why they are backing out and what the best fix is. We are going to a manufacturer's rally in a week (so inquiring minds can figure out the brand if they work at it), and there will be factory folks to consult there. I'll keep digging.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
BobsYourUncle wrote:
Further to the good advice above, I would ask why they are coming out, and why they are stripped. That could be a red flag.

Pull a few right out and look at the threads. They should be clean and metal color.
But if they are blackened or rusty, you have a water leak problem. The screws are coming out because the wood is wet and rotting and no longer holds the screw.


If you do find rusty screws it might be a good idea to remove the entire trim strip and see why the water is getting in. There should be an effective sealant behind the entire strip. I have fixed the hole problem by forcing Bondo fiberglass in and redrilling after it is hard.

jjrbus
Explorer
Explorer
BobsYourUncle wrote:
Further to the good advice above, I would ask why they are coming out, and why they are stripped. That could be a red flag.

Pull a few right out and look at the threads. They should be clean and metal color.
But if they are blackened or rusty, you have a water leak problem. The screws are coming out because the wood is wet and rotting and no longer holds the screw.


I'll second this, something is wrong. I have a 94 Toyota with over 100,000 and the screws do not just come out!

Further to the good advice above, I would ask why they are coming out, and why they are stripped. That could be a red flag.

Pull a few right out and look at the threads. They should be clean and metal color.
But if they are blackened or rusty, you have a water leak problem. The screws are coming out because the wood is wet and rotting and no longer holds the screw.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you replace the screws, give strong consideration to using stainless ones.

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
Yup, lots of toothpicks. But: Like the clique says -- Take your time and do it right once. Or, hurry and do it twice.
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Glue and toothpicks have been serving me well for many years.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

lenr
Explorer II
Explorer II
Wood glue?
Thought about Hard as nails, but wondered if it would be too hard, especially if the screws needed to be removed someday. Also, though of silicone, except maybe it's too soft. I haven't had time to check out larger screws. Toothpicks were suggested by my wood worker son, but I've probably got a hundred screws to strengthen--that's a lot of toothpicks!