Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...

[SJ-Chris]

On my 2013 23' Coachman Leprechaun 210QB, the side door lock/latch has developed a problem. It is a TriMark brand lock assembly. Here is a photo:


The correct operation of "closing the door" is to simply push (or pull) it shut and then it self latches closed (but not locked). Recently, when I did that (pushed it shut) it didn't automatically latch and instead it "rejected" the attempt. Imagine if you accidentally had the deadbolt in the lock position (extended) while the door was open, and then you pushed/slammed the door shut. It would make a loud "thud" and sort of bounce back open because it cannot possible close with the deadbolt sticking out. That is sort of what it is like, however it isn't the deadbolt causing the issue, it is the springy door latch part (circled in red in the photo) that is supposed to compress and then latch when the door closes. It is as if the springy part is extended out a little too far and then when the door tries to close it catches on the flat part of the springy part and not the slanted part of the springy part (which would then force it to spring inward and allow the door to close).

LOL....yes I realize "springy part" is obviously not the right name for that part. It is the part that (with the door open) you can push it in and then it will spring back once you remove the tension. It is similar to most standard door latches in your home. It's this part:


So....who here has had a similar problem? Is it possible/easy to open up the Trimark lock assembly and make some sort of adjustment? Thought I'd ask here first to see if anyone has any experience with these.

Thanks!
Chris

[D_E_Bishop]

As I see it you have just a couple of options, trash the lock and get a new one or really look into how the locks work. unless you are interested in learning lock smithing, I'd just replace the whole lock. They are poorly made and do not come with a lifetime guarentee. It is not a new problem.

[SJ-Chris]

ScottG wrote:
It's a $25 item - just replace it.

Which item is $25?

A new complete door latch from TriMark is ~$150+. Are you suggesting that just a part of this latch needs to be replaced? If so, I wasn't thinking that was an option but would be good. Please elaborate. Thanks

[ScottG]

It's a $25 item - just replace it.

[SJ-Chris]

Rick Jay wrote:


My original lock broke after about 10 years, and we were VERY careful about NOT slamming the door. It's replacement barely lasted four years. I then replaced that one with the new model and (knock on wood), no problems yet.

~Rick

Thanks for your reply and info Rick!

Question: Can you share some approximate dates/years that you are referencing? This RV I have is a 2013 model. I'm trying to figure out where that falls in your above timeline. Maybe my lock is one of the "new models" you reference above, or maybe not. On mine, the bolt (springy latch mechanism) is metal and it doesn't seem like it should get much stress so I'd be a little surprised if the metal piece broke.

Thanks!
Chris

[Rick_Jay]

Hi,

It's been a while since I played "Tri-Mark Lock" on my rig, so I forgot most of the details. Suffice it to say that the plastic part you have was probably what kept the bolt from extending completely.

You can try to rig something up that will keep it from extending all the way.

BUT....while I can't tell definitively from the pics, it looks like the sliding mechanism might be the style which is made from pot (cast) metal. If that's the case, at this point, I'd highly recommend you replace the entire lock assembly with the new version which has a stronger bolt mechanism. IF that's the pot metal version, it WILL break, it's just a matter of time. And when it does, you're either trapped inside the RV or outside the RV. If you're inside, hope you have a screwdriver handy AND that there isn't a fire. If you're outside, hopefully you have another door into the rig OR you left a large window unlocked and can get in that way. Or call a locksmith.

My original lock broke after about 10 years, and we were VERY careful about NOT slamming the door. It's replacement barely lasted four years. I then replaced that one with the new model and (knock on wood), no problems yet.

Perhaps someone here has some pics to show more details of where the pot metal failures occur. On mine, it's been at those two thin sections of pot metal with the rectangular hole inside. That's the weakest part and it doesn't take much for it to snap.

Good Luck,

~Rick

[SJ-Chris]

I finally got around to opening up the lock to take a look.

First, this is NOT a lubrication issue. The springy part compresses and springs back perfectly fine. The issue is that the latch part that sticks out actually sticks out TOO FAR. Here is a photo:



Because there is a flat part (circled in Yellow) sticking out, it hits the door jam when closing the door and the springy part doesn't get a chance to compress to allow it to close. It should look more like this photos:

where the slanted part of the latch will be the first thing to hit the door jam and therefore it will compress that latch and allow the door to close (and then spring back open to latch the door).

I took the door latch apart. Here is what it looked like:


I could see that there was a little plastic piece kind of floating around in the innards (by the springy part). I was able to get it out and it looks like this:


Is this something that broke? Does anyone know where this piece is supposed to go? My guess is that when this piece is in place wherever it is supposed to be it prevents the springy part from extending out too far.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

If this piece is broken and requires a completely new latch, I do think I see what might be another solution... In its "resting position" the latch guts inside the mechanism looks like this:


If I manually compress the latch that is sticking out to be at a better resting position (such that only the sloping part sticks out and then when the door closes it will compress and work correctly), the latch guts look like this:


If I cannot find the proper way to fix the lock/latch, I think I could probably glue a small metal block (~1/8th inch x 1/8th inch) on the latch in that space to prevent it from sliding out too far. Does that make sense?

Let me know if you have repaired such a lock and if that small piece I found floating around is something that is broken or just out of place.

Thanks!
Chris

[Gdetrailer]

As mentioned, try a lubricant.

My go to dry lubricant where I want to minimize transfer damage is candle wax. Take a old unlit candle and drag it across the surface of the strike plate and the spring loaded latch. Then opening/closing a few times and see if that resolves the issue.

Additionally it was mentioned to check the strike plate, make sure the spring loaded latch is close to centered to the strike plate.

Also check to make sure the strike plate is not too close to the door. If it is then you may have issues with door swelling/rotting making the door larger than the opening.

Also sometimes if you have uneven parking or to much stabilizer pressure you can twist the RV frame and body some which causes the door opening to no longer be plumb and square.. Adjust your stabilizers some and/or reposition the RV to see if that helps.

All else fails, you may need to replace the latch, they can and do go bad and start sticking, even ones in sticks and bricks.

[wa8yxm]

Tri mark locks are a problem the striker bolt (the part that's not moving properly) Loves to break and leave you locked in/out I got good at "picking" the lock.

You may need to adjust the striker plate a bit (The part it fits into)
Or you may just need to re-level the RV.. That's after you Lubricate as the other poster recommended.

[MFL]

When you want something to go in more easily, lubrication is your friend.

Try putting lubricant, even just bearing grease (to test) on that face area circled in second pic. Also wipe just a little on the strike plate.

If that fixes the problem, then use a lube that is more suited, as to not get on clothing or attract dirt. I use just a light film of teflon trailer ball lubricant.

Jerry