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Silly solar Questions

EllieThomas
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,
I want to get the 7pin adapter from GoPower. I have a 20' JayFlight travel trailer which I plug into the electrical power to charge. I have a Prosine 2000 inverter which does a grand job of charging the trailer.

Here is the issue. We have power failures a LOT where I live in the middle of nowhere. Just had one a few days ago for 5 hours. I can use the prosine for only so long. Then I need to charge her up. I have a Honda 1000 for that. If I don't have the gas, I'd like to give this thing a go. I have two 50w panels that fold out. The adapter looks like this: 7pin

Here are the silly questions: It connects to the cord on the trailer.

1. Will this in any way harm my Prosine?
2. Can I look at the panel on the Prosine to tell when the charge is done?
3. How does this actually work?

Thanks very much.

Ellie
Redding, California
2006 Jayco Jayflight 20BH
2006 Chevy Silverado Duramax with Allison
28 REPLIES 28

EllieThomas
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah, had my own made a few years ago from the local solar company here in town. They just started making them and since I bought panels from them, they offered me one of the first of these at a decent price. The controller is on the back side of the panels and should be out of the rain.

I will have the panels less than two feet from the batteries. They will sit right in front of the tongue so that should be close enough. Will get direct sun there.

I realize now that this is not my solution to charging my trailer batteries but it could supplement when I am not able to use electricity or generator during the black out times. I can then go in and look on tv to see what is happening and when it may be back on. Just got a UPS for my router and computer as well. I tried to plug those into a little power source but the electronics are pickier these days! This should keep me in the loop.

Thanks to you I now feel a bit more secure with this. There is enough to contend with in the house (no water.. on well pump) with gardens, chickens, sheep, etc. to water and feed). Now, I can relax a bit and am ready for the winter round of things. Seems like it is going out more than it used to.

Once again, I can come to this forum and get intelligent as well as kind and patient answers. I thank you all.

Ellie
Redding, California
2006 Jayco Jayflight 20BH
2006 Chevy Silverado Duramax with Allison

JiminDenver
Explorer II
Explorer II
I use the Eco-worthy 20a MPPT controller and am very happy with it. That said I can't recommend it for use with multiple panels due to the limited Voc of 42v. It works well with the larger 200w+ sized panels but they can be a hassle to deal with as a portable. At that size I wouldn't run it through the 7 pin.

So my recommendation would be to not spend the money on the more expensive controller, instead get a recommended 30a PWM controller and more panel.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
That's why I said everything about a store bought portable it wrong, including the price.
If you go portable fine, but build your own. Put the controller where it is suppose to be, and use the correct size wire to match the distances involved.

I kept holding off on buying GoPower because of price. The Renogy is far more reasonable and comes with a nice protective case that home made wouldn't have. The only thing I would do different would be getting the suitcase without the controller and getting their 20a controller or Eco-worthy MPPT 20a for longer cables/multiple panels.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
That's why I said everything about a store bought portable it wrong, including the price.
If you go portable fine, but build your own. Put the controller where it is suppose to be, and use the correct size wire to match the distances involved.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
EllieThomas wrote:
How many watts solar should I get to use with the 7 pin adapter should I go that route? You've said that larger won't work well, so what is a good amount to use with through that cord?


The 7-pin cord #4 pin charging wire is maybe #10 or less? Anyway it is long and thin. Means low amps. That is why your truck doesn't get much done charging via 7-pin (but also that is because the truck wiring is also long and thin)

So the ideal is to have the solar controller close to the batts on fat enough wire and the longer run from controller to array (panel) can stand more voltage drop along its length and you still get your amps to the battery.

So if using the 7-pin cord on the trailer, you are already placing the controller out past that, farther away on whatever fatness wiring that may be. You are losing amps right there, but it is an easy connection point. then you po from controller to panel with whatever that loses. You must keep the controller out of the rain, so have it under cover however you place it out from the trailer's 7-pin cord.

I will take a total WAG and say you could run a 100w panel from the 7-pin connection where the controller is past the trailer's 7-pin cord somewhere. That is because a 100w panel can do about 6.3 amps at best, and that is what my 7-pin can get to the batteries from the truck's alternator through that long thin wire (but that includes the truck' part of that wiring)

So--if you really want the most form any size panel, put the controller close to the batteries (remove it from the panel kit if that is where it is up by the panels) keep it from the rain, and then run longer wire to where the panels are so they are in the sun.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Ellie, here are a couple of links you might find helpful. In the first picture, the yellow connector is an Anderson connector.
http://community.fmca.com/blog/805/entry-1586-diy-rv-solar-install/

Here is the cable/connector I used to connect portable to battery:
http://community.fmca.com/blog/805/entry-1586-diy-rv-solar-install/

In spite of the nay sayers, portable looks like a solution for you. I just got started with portable because I wanted to learn before doing anything permanent and most of my campsites have been in the shade. I have the Renogy 100W suitcase portable and the alligator clip cable at the end of it already had Anderson connectors, but using them was a hassle so I switched to the cables above for a hassle-free quick connect. Ideally, the controller (mounted on the back of the panel) should be close to the battery bank connected with a heavier cable to minimize loss. I plan to remove my controller from the panel and mount it near the batteries instead, then get longer cables from the panel to the controller also using the Anderson connector so I can get my panel(s) out to the sun.
Do you have the GoPower portable? That 7-pin adapter is something I looked at but realize my trailer has batteries at the front and converter charger in the rear and that would be a really long run, so I went with something to get my solar right to the batteries. The 7-pin adapter from my research comes with an Anderson connector so you will need one on the end of the cable coming from your solar. But the connector cable I used should be more effective, and given your situation of not needing longer cables, should be all you need to do for ease of connection.
The 2 wire adapter someone posted is a type of connector that works well also.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Agreed. its the short term camping where the hassle of a portable doesn't cut it.
For doing 3 months in Quartzsite, the portable worked great.

smkettner wrote:
Portable might be the best option in your situation.
While on the road portable would get to be one more chore at setup/pack-up so if moving often.... no thanks.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

EllieThomas
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks. The folding two panels have a controller built in so guess we are good to go. I just have to think of it as a supplemental helper. ๐Ÿ™‚

Sure do thank you for the help in this.

Ellie
Redding, California
2006 Jayco Jayflight 20BH
2006 Chevy Silverado Duramax with Allison

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Depends on the wire size. Go Power suggests 120w and smaller so I would call it good for your two panels. Still need a controller. If you put 500w through the thing it will probably melt and your controller will be too far from the battery to be effective.

EllieThomas
Explorer
Explorer
How many watts solar should I get to use with the 7 pin adapter should I go that route? You've said that larger won't work well, so what is a good amount to use with through that cord?
Redding, California
2006 Jayco Jayflight 20BH
2006 Chevy Silverado Duramax with Allison

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Portable might be the best option in your situation.
While on the road portable would get to be one more chore at setup/pack-up so if moving often.... no thanks.

EllieThomas
Explorer
Explorer
Why does everyone quit the portable idea? Just not enough? I like the two pin thingie too.

We just lost our electricity this week and it is over 100 degrees out and sunny. In the winter time, we get a HUGE amount of sun which is why it works well in my greenhouse. That is just 250w hooked up to a battery, then inverter in a mailbox (hey, it works and stays dry) and powers lights/fans in there in the winter. Never runs out.

So that is why I thought the solar would help me out with my little trailer. It is under a carport but I thought to put the panels in front of it facing South.
Redding, California
2006 Jayco Jayflight 20BH
2006 Chevy Silverado Duramax with Allison

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I still prefer portable for our camping situations, but to each his own on that.

For the OP, I am wondering how your can get any solar at all when you get those power outages. Here, those usually happen in storms when trees fall on the lines. No sun in the sky in that kind of weather. By the time the sky is sunny again a few days later they have the power back on anyway.

You can't get enough in from solar to do anything when the sky is overcast. It is not enough that it is light out in the daytime so you can see. If that is what you expect then save the solar money to buy more gasoline for the gen.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.solarcapitalist.com/sae2pin-surface-mount-connect.aspx
Really, I wouldn't even think about that rippoff "adapter, and instead go w/ the 2 pin in the link above. You can flush mount this near your batteries, to plug the portable panels into.
I have this mounted in the side of my MH, worked fantastic, until I quit the portable idea.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.