slide out issue on Cameo

Doublecheck voltage at battery. Slides work off 12 volt.

Some slide motors have a slot at the back of the motor that will accept a bit then use the cordless driver to bring slide in. Assuming you don't have a crank to do the same.

Sounds to me you have a mechanical problem causing more load on your electrical motor causing it to shut down. As someone suggested if you help the slide by pushing it in or out and it works without stopping it is a mechanical issue. Mine would do the same as you described and I would adjust the potentiometer and all was well for several years. When it started to happen again I noticed that where the slide rolls in and out the rollers dug into the floor somewhat and created some resistance. I removed the groove in the floor by adding some sht metal over the groove and the slide came in again. Try adjusting the pot first then look at where the slides roll on the floor and any other mechanical parts for wear. Hope this helps.

HI! Finally someone knows...? My 2009 Cammy 32 FWS has no zippers underneath... I hope you can help? WHERE DO I LOOK for the slideout Motor???? Am guessing may even be two? It is a 29 foot-ish slide For now, the manual override to manually crank it in is of utmost importance!! HELP!!!! Owner's manual is about 7 sentences or so NO Help.I removed access panel (all plumbing far as I can see). Then I removed entire "underbelly shroud", no "soap". Only the rear is that plastic fabric - must've been replaced by former owner. I know just a few things: 1. My problem started out with a micro-switch. Under kitchen cabinet.Slide out extends but doesn't retract. 2. Problem worse than micro-switch now. No power flowing through wires to motor (pretty sure) 3. I have learned that all Carriage slide-out assy.'s are between floor and sub-floor. 4. I MUST leave where I am now, and I am too far for Mobile repair to get to without BIG $$$$$$ to get to me, AND no one wishes to try. 5. I have exp. the American rig slide-outs, NOT Canadian ones; and yes I checked fuses, breakers, reset the 12v - everything I can think of.... 6. I can't "switch" the wires behind wall switch. Harness wires too short HELLLLLPPP!

i A great point , look closely at the arrow, its a morryde rubber equalizer that is not tubed, sleeved wirh a wear bushing.
The shackle. bolts have only the equalizer 'ears' to wear against. Failure is certain.

Look here while under there.

Petethescot wrote:

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
The zipper open access panels will not give you enough room to service the system. ours were rusted solid. Honey, Its Stuck! Open it a lot, give yourself rooooom.
I had to cut a much larger opening through the underbelly fabric, fold back the insulation do the gear replacement then reseal the underbelly fabric with 3 M super 77 spray contact cement and more fabric as a 'tape'
Carriage slideout gears and jacks
were made by RBW, sold to Dexter, then to Coachworks. New parts are exclusive to Coachworks and $$$. $$$ $ and then some. Salvage parts do not serve any better as the same issues are present.
The motors and drives are for us are good, its the gearing and engagement that failed A wrench job , maybe a welding job to rebuild the sprocket, most importantly rearrange spacers and bushings to fully engage the sprocket on the rack gear.

Thanks ??

I am giving my experience maybe the , worst case scenario. Been there, fixed. with upgrades. It wasnt electrical, It was mechanical on both door and off door side slides. rack gears to crown gear engagement was not full, allowing wear and gear tooth stripping.
Our Cameo has many slide out cycles every year. It wasnt the number of cycles asmuch as the poot alignment of crown gear to rack, and tolerances between them.
Manufacturers defect that would pass by for a while, beyond warranty likely Thats where so many issues arise.
Your Cameo also has Moryde rubber equalizer suspension. Look closely, the moryde eyelets to lower shackle point are not tubed, not nylon sleeved to prevent wear on the shackles and bolts. Again been there. $$$$ fix on the road, $ now at home. I caught it at home, welded in tubing, bored to 23/64 " placed nylon bushings in all points and upgraded to wet shackle bolts.that I aligned with the lube holes in the nylon sleeve/ bushings.
My point is, while you are under there, look with education at the other issues of greater concern than the slide.

Have you tried getting some friends give you a push assist on the slide to reduce the motor energy needed to bring it in? If it comes in on a single pass then your motor is working too hard on its own and is shutting itself down. Also, remove as much weight as you can from the slide.

I will say that sometimes our slide motor will shut down when we first push the retract switch. We push again and it works fine. I figured it was just overcoming the original slide stiction from being out for a while.

I do not know what system you have but many use a current sensor in the control box to tell if it has reached end of travel (the motor stalls and current increases)

Any obstruction will still the motor
Slide slightly out of adjustment can increase the load
Lack of Lubrication
And old age (of the motor)

In theory you can adjust the current sensor
in practice don't ask me how.

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
The zipper open access panels will not give you enough room to service the system. ours were rusted solid. Honey, Its Stuck! Open it a lot, give yourself rooooom.
I had to cut a much larger opening through the underbelly fabric, fold back the insulation do the gear replacement then reseal the underbelly fabric with 3 M super 77 spray contact cement and more fabric as a 'tape'
Carriage slideout gears and jacks
were made by RBW, sold to Dexter, then to Coachworks. New parts are exclusive to Coachworks and $$$. $$$ $ and then some. Salvage parts do not serve any better as the same issues are present.
The motors and drives are for us are good, its the gearing and engagement that failed A wrench job , maybe a welding job to rebuild the sprocket, most importantly rearrange spacers and bushings to fully engage the sprocket on the rack gear.

Thanks ??

The zipper open access panels will not give you enough room to service the system. ours were rusted solid. Honey, Its Stuck! Open it a lot, give yourself rooooom.
I had to cut a much larger opening through the underbelly fabric, fold back the insulation do the gear replacement then reseal the underbelly fabric with 3 M super 77 spray contact cement and more fabric as a 'tape'
Carriage slideout gears and jacks
were made by RBW, sold to Dexter, then to Coachworks. New parts are exclusive to Coachworks and $$$. $$$ $ and then some. Salvage parts do not serve any better as the same issues are present.
The motors and drives are for us are good, its the gearing and engagement that failed A wrench job , maybe a welding job to rebuild the sprocket, most importantly rearrange spacers and bushings to fully engage the sprocket on the rack gear.