Is anyone here familiar with setting up a Solar 30 Charge contoller?Not knowing much about this stuff, and having directions converted from chinese, I could use some input on setting one up.What should the "ceasing charging voltage be?What should the "recovery voltage" be?I would assume 'low voltage protectin point " is the lowest you want the batteries to go before the controller cuts off the load? This must only be the load from the load connections on the controller itself?Is "ceasing charging voltage" the float setting?I am not using the load connections, just the battery connections to keep some batteries charge up at my cabin.Any input on setting this thing up would be appreciated.Thanks very muchStew

cease charging probably is trigger point to switch to float. Could be some high voltage disconnect. I suggest 14.5 and see how it goes.I would guess recovery voltage is a trigger point to go back to absorption so maybe 12.6 to 13.0 volts. s/b below float set point.Yes I think low voltage protection just pertains to the load control terminals. So the LED light on the front door does not kill the battery overnight.Keep an eye on it for a couple cycles.

The voltage setting is both absorption and float. It gets the batts up to that and stays there till dark. I set mine to do 14.8v when camping and when not camping 13.4 as the float.Pick the voltage according to your battery type and brand's specs.First set-up, let it get the batts up and see what it really settles at. Mine and Niner's overshoots so to get 14.8 I set 14.3 I like this, since the max setting is 15.0 and I can actually get 15.5 If I want.The voltage and amps on the display are accurate though. I don't use the AH or any of the load features.

BFL13 wrote:The voltage setting is both absorption and float. It gets the batts up to that and stays there till dark. I set mine to do 14.8v when camping and when not camping 13.4 as the float.Pick the voltage according to your battery type and brand's specs.First set-up, let it get the batts up and see what it really settles at. Mine and Niner's overshoots so to get 14.8 I set 14.3 I like this, since the max setting is 15.0 and I can actually get 15.5 If I want.The voltage and amps on the display are accurate though. I don't use the AH or any of the load features.So the " ceasing charging Voltage" is both absorption and float? Then this is the only adjustable parameter I would be concerned with?Thanks very much for the help

At 14.8, I am getting 15.0 to 15.1v at the battery, since it is pulse charging. It is going to depend on how far the wire run is from charge controller to the batteries, and what gauge wire you are running, as well as quality of terminals and quality/cleanliness of the connections, as you'll have V loss along the way.I'd start at 14.8V. You should also let us know how many amps charging capacity in solar panels you have, and how many amp hours your batteries have.

StewB wrote:BFL13 wrote:The voltage setting is both absorption and float. It gets the batts up to that and stays there till dark. I set mine to do 14.8v when camping and when not camping 13.4 as the float.Pick the voltage according to your battery type and brand's specs.First set-up, let it get the batts up and see what it really settles at. Mine and Niner's overshoots so to get 14.8 I set 14.3 I like this, since the max setting is 15.0 and I can actually get 15.5 If I want.The voltage and amps on the display are accurate though. I don't use the AH or any of the load features.So the " ceasing charging Voltage" is both absorption and float? Then this is the only adjustable parameter I would be concerned with?Thanks very much for the helpYes. In fact the controller does not cease charging once the batteries reach that voltage. That is actually the "absorption voltage" which is held while amps taper as battery charging continues in the usual way. The battery acceptance rate for that voltage will determine the amps the battery will take in. There may or may not be enough sunshine to get those amps.

Solar 30 Charge Controller????? | Good Sam Community

jrnymn7
Explorer
Mar 26, 2015
Well there ya go... yet another unit that appears to be a Solar30. It has the full aluminum back plate... but what's on the inside? I guess only rigorous testing would determine if one is better than the other. Niner certainly has no qualms about either unit he owns, so maybe most low scale controllers are "good enough" for what they're called upon to do.
BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 23, 2015
This one has funny buttons

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/30A-PWM-LCD-Solar-Panel-Battery-Regulator-Charge-Controller-12V-24V-360W-720W-/141209979629?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e0c54aed
NinerBikes
Explorer
Mar 23, 2015
I own both the round and oval button versions. They both work and put out the same amp and voltage outputs. No difference that I could discern. My $60 worth of input. Buy either, keep them mounted and stored inside, not for portable use, and set them up and be happy. Neither of them is humidity soaked or water proof.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Mar 21, 2015
I got the cheapo first, saw this thread and ordered the one branded Solar30 because that is what I wanted in the first place. I don't know if I would ever do a comparison test because I am not solar technical enough to know what to look for. Maybe Mex could test them for me. LOL!
BTW, each was $30.
grizzzman
Explorer
Mar 21, 2015
For more info on the solar30 look at the manufacturer. You will find that they make several versions and will relabel for bulk sales.

chinasolarregulator.com
NinerBikes
Explorer
Mar 21, 2015
gmelton2 wrote:
"Why don't you try a search on Amazon and get back to us with what you find. You've only been here 10 years... maybe try searching for something yourself? It's not that hard."

Wow, such friendly assistance. And how would I know that I have the correct one, do tell? Since you are so knowledgeable? Should I just buy until I get the correct one?

Dare I say thanks in advance? I think I will go to a friendlier site!!!

On second thought, kiss my a**!!! I will not ask for help on this site again, you bunch of premo*********!!! I am gone!!!!!

Greg

:Rolls eyes.
NinerBikes
Explorer
Mar 21, 2015
Lazy hands make a man poor, but diligent hands bring wealth.” (Proverbs 10: 4)

The shame is that the answers are right at your fingertips, sir. Do a search. here, or on Google, or on You Tube.

Can't keep throwing you fish to feed you when you need to learn how to fish and feed yourself the rest of your life.

Don't get indignant with the messenger just because you don't like the message. If you are capable of typing, (which you are) you are capable of finding the answer yourself, this has been discussed plenty in the last year here.

The truth can be painful at times, for folks that feel entitled.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Mar 21, 2015
Actually, I mis-spoke. Stew's unit has a base plate with less (wider spaced) fins, but is different from the one in my comparison link. The one in my link has a base that goes all the way across, and it is the aluminum base that gets screwed down during installation, whereas Stews has a similar looking base, but it is the plastic (upper)case that is screwed down. So depending on what the unit is mounted to, there is potential for increased heat dissipation with the full base plate.

I was just at the camper yesterday, so I could have checked to see exactly which unit I bought? Next time I'm up north I'll check.
BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 21, 2015
windynation calls their Solar30 a "P30L" Eco-Worthy also sells one on their site.

someplace I saw one that has way different buttons that are almost vertical rectangular ISTR.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Mar 21, 2015
Stew,

Unless I'm mistaken, I think a third unit that is also marketed as a 'solar 30' is the unit offered by Renogy? It's generally more expensive, but no idea if one is better than the other? I have asked this question, myself, more than once.

You would think there would be some sort of control put in place, regarding marketing different products under the same name? But then again, calling a marine hybrid battery a "deep cycle" is but one example of marketeering gone wild.

The unit you have seems to be a combination of at least two other units... it has oval buttons, but has the one piece (allegedly better) back plate. So maybe that makes for 4 different units all being marketed as a 'solar 30'?

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