Solar controller?

Where have you already looked?

I haven't done any wire tracing and any research. I do not know if the panels are even working. Just idle hands thinking out loud and anticipating the approaching return.

With 2 panels I would be very surprised if there wasn't any controller. Cheap low-current PWM controllers often look very inconspicuous, a plastic block ~5 inch long with a few terminals. And it should be mounted no further than a few feet from the batteries. Not to say that RV shop people always install it close to the batts - they mostly have no clue...

Without a charge Controller you could boil your batteries dry.
Battery Monitor acts as a fuel gauge for your batteries. They also show you how many amps each of your loads take to run.

You'll find it some day. If you take MH out of the barn, don't disconnect the coach battery from controller before you find the switch or fuse that disconnects the solar panel from controller. Some controllers don't like to be connected to solar voltage when they are not connected to battery. Inside the barn it doesn't matter because there is no solar voltage in the dark.

I would try looking somewhere close to the batteries first.

I appreciate the input. I can't even tell you the wattage of the panels, but I do have some brochures on them. They are original equipment from what I have read. What kind of longevity can be expected?

On the panels? Probably 20 years with some reduced output by then but you'll replace them before that.

They should be good for 20 years and more, with some loss of output. I have 2 very old 1 watt panels, one of which is nearly dead, the other still delivering about 500 mW. I got them used in the early 80s and they were old then!

The one that still works is permanently connected to the generator starting battery in the stick house. Haven't had to connect a battery charger in 2 years.

As for the controller, as said it could be anywhere. The bonehead tech that connected mine put it under a drawer that was under the stove, where for some reason the converter was from the OEM -- 25 feet from the batteries! :S

At 20 amps I have a full volt drop between it and the batteries! :(

OP-

If the solar was added prior to about 2003, the controller would likely be a flush mount and you might have been staring at it the entire time. Is there a volt and amps indicator over the refrigerator, built into a cabinet or in the power status area? If so, that might be your controller.