Solar controller?

[Brian48]

On our 91 Serengeti, Osh Kosh chassis gaser, we have two solar panels. Any idea if there is a "controller" some place? We are waiting for the weather to warm up in Michigan so we can head back and I can get the MH out of the barn. Purchased the unit in July and spent most of the rest of summer making adjustments and cleaning electrical connections. Didn't get to the solar setup and was just thinking in advance. Have a few manuals but no schematic. Thank you for any assistance.

[MrWizard]

If it was OEM little square panels,
There is no controller
Just a blocking diode to prevent REVERSE current drain at night

Those little Sq panels are/where strictly battery tenders,
Will keep fully charged batteries from self discharge, provided you stored the RV using the battery disconnect switch

[Bend]

Found this today concerning the current Go Power GPR-22 controller. Might be good for a laugh considering "close to the batt" and "above the refrigerator."

"4. Choosing a Location

The GPR-22 is designed to be mounted flush against a wall, out of the way and easily visible. The GPR-22 should be:

• mounted as close to the battery as possible.
• mounted on a vertical surface to optimize cooling of the unit.
• indoors, protected from the weather.

In an RV, the most common location is a panel above the refrigerator. The wire from the solar modules most commonly enters the RV through the fridge vent on the roof. Battery connections connect directly to the batteries."

http://www.altestore.com/mmsolar/others/GPR_22_Regulator.pdf

[BFL13]

Bend wrote:

Almot wrote:

Bend wrote:
Is there a volt and amps indicator over the refrigerator, built into a cabinet or in the power status area? If so, that might be your controller.

Yep. Bonehead technicians. Mounting a controller where it's hot and with many feet of wire run to the battery.

....

The tech's at that time and prior were just following the controller manufacture's instructions: Flush mount and in a convenient viewing place along with hooking into the refrigerator's DC circuits for batt tie-in was the RV solar state of the art.

Some still do it.

Yes. The old fridge trick! Just follow the panel wiring from the roof. Probably goes down the roof fridge vent. Now see where it goes next.

It can go to a controller inside the rig near the fridge, with the controller -battery wires going back in to the fridge's DC positive and a ground or it might go to the DC panel's battery lugs by the converter (which might be under the fridge) for pos and neg, or just for the pos and neg to ground(frame) somewhere.

A friend has a 1998 MH with a PD9100 that has the DC panel with the three-place pos battery lug buss. One place is battery, one is converter, and the third is solar.

[Bend]

Almot wrote:

Bend wrote:
Is there a volt and amps indicator over the refrigerator, built into a cabinet or in the power status area? If so, that might be your controller.

Yep. Bonehead technicians. Mounting a controller where it's hot and with many feet of wire run to the battery.

....

The tech's at that time and prior were just following the controller manufacture's instructions: Flush mount and in a convenient viewing place along with hooking into the refrigerator's DC circuits for batt tie-in was the RV solar state of the art.

Some still do it.

[mena661]

Wrong thread RJ! LOL!

[EsoxLucius]

Huh?

[RJsfishin]

What is it w/ Demco...Karkaddy tow dollies, supposedly one of the best, w/ kingpin steering, steering stabilizer etc. Every used one I see, including the one I just bought, has the exposed part of the steering stabilizer shaft just covered in rust. I attacked it today, and the shaft is quite rusty and pitted into the shaft. I tuned....emery cloth on it for a while, and got it quite smooth to the touch, but I don't feel good about that part of the shaft going thru the seal w/o starting to leak in time. The stabilizer feels to be in good shape otherwise, moves very slow and smooth in both directions.

I don't know that this is typical of any other steering stabilizers. Is this well known company using some cheap jusk on their $3000 tow dolly ? I check the shaft w/ magnet, an it is definently not stainless steel, so I don't see how it can help but get rusty setting outside.
Any others experience this on any steering stabilizer or shock absorber ? I have seen it on 3 Demco Kaddies now.

[Almot]

Bend wrote:
Is there a volt and amps indicator over the refrigerator, built into a cabinet or in the power status area? If so, that might be your controller.

Yep. Bonehead technicians. Mounting a controller where it's hot and with many feet of wire run to the battery.

As to the longevity of panels - they work almost indefinitely, but they lose 1% efficiency per year. So 20 years old will be 20% less efficient. Plus, some more losses due to glass that became scratched and milky with years.

[Bend]

OP-

If the solar was added prior to about 2003, the controller would likely be a flush mount and you might have been staring at it the entire time. Is there a volt and amps indicator over the refrigerator, built into a cabinet or in the power status area? If so, that might be your controller.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

They should be good for 20 years and more, with some loss of output. I have 2 very old 1 watt panels, one of which is nearly dead, the other still delivering about 500 mW. I got them used in the early 80s and they were old then!

The one that still works is permanently connected to the generator starting battery in the stick house. Haven't had to connect a battery charger in 2 years.

As for the controller, as said it could be anywhere. The bonehead tech that connected mine put it under a drawer that was under the stove, where for some reason the converter was from the OEM -- 25 feet from the batteries! :S

At 20 amps I have a full volt drop between it and the batteries! 😞

[mena661]

On the panels? Probably 20 years with some reduced output by then but you'll replace them before that.

[Brian48]

I appreciate the input. I can't even tell you the wattage of the panels, but I do have some brochures on them. They are original equipment from what I have read. What kind of longevity can be expected?

[mena661]

I would try looking somewhere close to the batteries first.

[Almot]

You'll find it some day. If you take MH out of the barn, don't disconnect the coach battery from controller before you find the switch or fuse that disconnects the solar panel from controller. Some controllers don't like to be connected to solar voltage when they are not connected to battery. Inside the barn it doesn't matter because there is no solar voltage in the dark.