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Solar regulator and aux battery charging

nightshift
Explorer
Explorer
I recently had 300W of flex solar panels installed on my class C and man do they pump out power. I'm happy with my Blue Sky MPPT regulator since it charges the starting battery. The only problem is that this function only works when the coach batts have reached "acceptance" mode. There is no way to change this setting. We boondock most of the time and our stereo runs off the chassis battery and if it's cloudy for a couple of days the chassis batt gets a bit low.
I want to install a simple marine grade switch to connect the coach and chassis batteries. Does it matter the size of wire? Do I need a small regulator, or should I just use it like a jump starter for half an hour per day?
9 REPLIES 9

Harvey51
Explorer
Explorer
I have my engine battery connected to the pair of house batteries all the time. The solar keeps them all charged. At first I disconnected them when camping but eventually forgot and no problems resulted. The wire is 14 gauge about 25 feet long so not a whole lot of current will be drawn from the house batteries when starting the engine. The engine battery has never been discharged much by the house because the solar always keeps the house batteries over 80% charged.
2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I installed a Trik-L-Start.


It would also be easy to power the dash radio from the "house" bank. It does require installing an in line fuse.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree with Mike-S. Charge the starting battery with a separate, small solar system.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

nightshift
Explorer
Explorer
You're right, I should stick to standard terminology. Coach batt = house batt. Chassis batt = starting batt.

I would prefer that the regulator would allow charging of the starting battery when the coach battery reached 80%. However, when I read the status page the "AUX BATT CHG" (aux = starting batt) stays "OFF" until the coach battery reaches 99% on the Blue Sky meter.
At 99% charge the slow flashing green LED lets me know that "acceptance" has been reached. When I switch displays, sure enough the "AUX BAT CHG" is "ON".

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Trik-L-Start at RV Upgrades $30

Limited to 5 amps so it will not really take all the power and slow the house charging. Once house is charged the controller can send all the power with existing system.

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
Starting battery, coach battery, chassis battery. Two of these things are not like the other.

I'm only guessing that the starting battery and the chassis battery are one and the same.

But, you say that charging the starting battery only charges when the coach battery has reached "acceptance" mode. Again, I'm only guessing that you mean absorption, which would be around 80%, so the starting battery doesn't get much charge.

If you want both to charge, perhaps add one of the cheap PWM controllers, put one panel through that to the starting battery, and leave the other 2 panels connected to the BlueSky.

nightshift
Explorer
Explorer
OK, they have this as well. It looks like you can dial an upper and lower voltage cutoff. I'm going to call them.

nightshift
Explorer
Explorer
Yes. A few minutes ago I found something on AM Solar. They have a trickle charger(5A) for house-to-chassis charging. But I want a switch so the house batts aren't completely drained.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Do you have a battery isolator in the RV, at present?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton