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Solar Rule Of Thumb....

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
I was wondering with so many variables is there a rule of thumb on how large of a solar system you need to keep your batteries charged so not having to run the generator.

The factors I would include is my trailer has LED lighting and a 40" TV. The TV may be used two or three hours a day... I have four group 24 12 volt batteries..

Thanks for any input
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.
34 REPLIES 34

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have also had several examples of bad professional designs ๐Ÿ™‚
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

OldSmokey
Explorer
Explorer
full_mosey wrote:
OldSmokey wrote:

As a professional I will state there are no rules of thumb for solar design, only good design and bad diy design.
if you would like to pm me with your requirements and expectations i will gladly assist you in a correct design.


Could you give an example or two to illustrate how widely a design can vary from the 1:1 rule-of-thumb?

HTH;
John


I can see the humor in that reply.. :B

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
OldSmokey wrote:

As a professional I will state there are no rules of thumb for solar design, only good design and bad diy design.
if you would like to pm me with your requirements and expectations i will gladly assist you in a correct design.


Could you give an example or two to illustrate how widely a design can vary from the 1:1 rule-of-thumb?

HTH;
John

OldSmokey
Explorer
Explorer
1L243 wrote:
I was wondering with so many variables is there a rule of thumb on how large of a solar system you need to keep your batteries charged so not having to run the generator.

The factors I would include is my trailer has LED lighting and a 40" TV. The TV may be used two or three hours a day... I have four group 24 12 volt batteries..

Thanks for any input


As a professional I will state there are no rules of thumb for solar design, only good design and bad diy design.
if you would like to pm me with your requirements and expectations i will gladly assist you in a correct design.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
BFL13 wrote:
Watts of panel doing what?

In a weather like it's been in the last 5-6 weeks in BC it will be doing nothing, regardless of tilt :). Though, Oregon weather is better.

LED draw very little. A rig roomy enough for 40" TV will probably have a fridge, in LP mode it could draw (daily) more than TV because at 50% cycle it's running 12 hours a day. On a hot day you run a fan or two, several hours a day, then a laptop, then something else that OP didn't mention. These are user's many variables, not "solar".

Without knowing the details - I would get at least 300W roof-mounted flat solar in summer in Oregon, assuming conservative use and no dense shade.

If you don't want to install anything - get 2*100W portable, it might work, but you'll have to deal with this setup every time you move the camp.

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
ktmrfs wrote:
I had a pair of T-125's that I consistently discharged to 25% SOC around 40 times/year, then when home charged them fully. kept them watered. After 10years the SG was still near new. Then they went to daughters in-laws for another 4 years of abuse. Last year they finally were getting pretty worn out, SG on a few cells was dropping, but they still were lasting a weekend. But total number of cycles to 75% DOD was around 500, close to what Trojan claims for life.
The only issue I have with Trojans is their high equalization voltage (they recommend 16.2V). That doesn't play well with some of the 12V stuff in the camper, so I would need to open the load breaker before equalizing, which means it can't be automatic. The Costco/Interstate GC2s equalize at 15.3V.

The Trojan SPRE are designed for solar applications, and they even make a 12V one. They're not GC batteries. But, they don't publish internal resistance numbers, so it's hard to tell how they'd compare if used for an inverter.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Watts of panel doing what? Flat or tilted or aimed all day? It varies by location and time of year of course, but in my case In May at 49N from one 130w panel I got daily AH haul of: 56 Flat, 70 tilted, and 90 aimed in a tilting twirler.

So in a tilting twirler my single 255w panel is "worth" the same as 255 x 90/56 = 410w flat in May at 49N
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
400 watts on 300 to 500 A/h battery will work fine.
'rule of thumb' is supposed to be overly simplistic.

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
Rule of thumb? 100 watts solar per battery.


Kinda loosey goosey with respect to battery capacities!

How about 1W solar : 1Ah battery.

100W:100Ah.

I have two systems 170W:135Ah and 280W:270Ah.

HTH;
John

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
mike-s wrote:
Whether to apply the "don't discharge more than 50%" rule of thumb depends on how much you'll use the battery.

If you're less than a full-time boondocker, the difference may simply not matter. Only 4% of campers do over 30 days per year. The majority camp less than 15 nights. And even fewer if only considering boondocking.

You can find pessimistic estimates for generic deep cycle lead acid of 200 cycles @ 100% discharge. Then look at a premium battery - Trojan Battery's literature for their SPRE 06 255 solar battery (same size as a T-105) shows a life expectancy of about 1900 cycles @ 50% discharge, and about 1200 @ 80%.

The inexpensive Interstate GC-2's sold by Costco are supposedly 650@80.

So, take the extreme high end of 30 full battery cycles per year, and use the pessimistic expectation of only 200 cycles of lifetime, and that's still almost 7 years. Not many RV batteries last longer than that regardless of how well they're treated (now someone will describe their 20 year old battery bank).

But let's say, age and cycles combined, the battery lasts 6 years instead of 7. We did that by limiting how much battery capacity we used - 50% instead of 80%. So, over those 6 years, we avoided using 30% of the available capacity to save (7/6=1.17) 17% in battery cost. It's still a false economy.

Use more realistic figures, and things only get better. Use the Interstate 650@80 numbers, and that's over 21 years. Cycles simply aren't a significant factor at that point. Even a battery on constant float charge isn't going to last that long.


I had a pair of T-125's that I consistently discharged to 25% SOC around 40 times/year, then when home charged them fully. kept them watered. After 10years the SG was still near new. Then they went to daughters in-laws for another 4 years of abuse. Last year they finally were getting pretty worn out, SG on a few cells was dropping, but they still were lasting a weekend. But total number of cycles to 75% DOD was around 500, close to what Trojan claims for life.

And I asked trojan what determines EOL. They said when capacity is 75% of new. So even the cycle life they claim really isn't taking them down to dead and gone, just 75% of initial AH.

So, yes for most campers, you CAN deeply discharge GC batteries and have reasonable cycle life. What that means is that when comparing AH, if you use 50%DOD for 12V, vs 75% DOD for GC, GC has a significant advantage in useable AH. And even trojan 12V deep cycle won't give near the cycles at the same DOD as the GC does.

Now, there are tradeoffs, as BFL mentions, and as I have experienced, GC are really weak when it comes to heavy discharge currents, the long life design sacrifices internal resistance. coupled with not sharing current between parallel batteries, and GC are at a signficant disadvantage when used with high inverter loads like a microwave. A pair of GC has a hard time with a 750W inverter load below about 80% SOC, where a pair of 12V won't grunt till 50% or less.

we boondock a lot, and like to occasionally use the microwave on the inverter. and not have to be anal about battery capacity, so to solve both problems I have 4GC. with that I CAN run the microwave with the batteries down near 50%. with a pair I was pressing my luck at anything below 80%SOC.

My 4GC with an 550AH won't give the CCA that a single 12V 75AH starting battery will give.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Good point made above concerning number of cycles per year.

One important factor in going below 50% is if you have high inverter loads which pull down battery voltage when running those loads. As your SOC goes down so does the remaining AH capacity and you are more likely to trigger the inverter's low voltage alarm and eventual shut down. The batteries are still ok for lighter loads such as running the furnace, but you can't use the inverter anymore.

One way to solve that is to give the inverter its own battery bank and use another bank for the normal things. Now you can run those below 50% and everything still works.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
Whether to apply the "don't discharge more than 50%" rule of thumb depends on how much you'll use the battery.

If you're less than a full-time boondocker, the difference may simply not matter. Only 4% of campers do over 30 days per year. The majority camp less than 15 nights. And even fewer if only considering boondocking.

You can find pessimistic estimates for generic deep cycle lead acid of 200 cycles @ 100% discharge. Then look at a premium battery - Trojan Battery's literature for their SPRE 06 255 solar battery (same size as a T-105) shows a life expectancy of about 1900 cycles @ 50% discharge, and about 1200 @ 80%.

The inexpensive Interstate GC-2's sold by Costco are supposedly 650@80.

So, take the extreme high end of 30 full battery cycles per year, and use the pessimistic expectation of only 200 cycles of lifetime, and that's still almost 7 years. Not many RV batteries last longer than that regardless of how well they're treated (now someone will describe their 20 year old battery bank).

But let's say, age and cycles combined, the battery lasts 6 years instead of 7. We did that by limiting how much battery capacity we used - 50% instead of 80%. So, over those 6 years, we avoided using 30% of the available capacity to save (7/6=1.17) 17% in battery cost. It's still a false economy.

Use more realistic figures, and things only get better. Use the Interstate 650@80 numbers, and that's over 21 years. Cycles simply aren't a significant factor at that point. Even a battery on constant float charge isn't going to last that long.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
KD4UPL wrote:
You just need to calculate watts-hours in versus watts-hours out.
When buying a panel go as big as possible. Anything less than 100 watts is a joke. The bigger the panel the cheaper it is on a watts/dollar basis. The best deals will be on panels in the 275 to 330 watt range. For these you will need an MPPT charge controller to match the output voltage to your battery bank.
Don't skimp on the panel or the controller. Get a big panel, get a controller large enough to handle a few more panels. A 60 amp controller will handle 2 or maybe 3 of the large panels.


Key difference. You may have a peak demand of 200w but if it's for 10hrs, you need a lot more than a 200w panel.

You can tell what size he will need or want until he assesses what he is going to use. If it's just the water pump and a single 15w light bulb for a couple hours, a 100w panel is overkill (of course, that would be a very minimalist lifestyle).
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Smitty77
Explorer
Explorer
A few rules of thumbs that I've developed, and of course, not scientifically developed:)!

> Put as high as quality, and as many that will fit, solar panels on your roof. (If the roof will fit 12 (Or whatever.) panels, put 12 (Or whatever.) panels on it!
> When you replace your house batteries, put as good of quality and as many (Focus on combined AH's vs numbers of batteries.) AGM's (Or if you're in the mood to do so, Lithium.) that will fit in your battery bay. (Lithium's charge the fastest, and AGM's charge faster then Wet.)
>Don't cheap out on MPPT Controller, and be sure to have an effective Battery Monitor (If Magnum Inverter/Charger, the BMK Meter does well. If not Magnum, check out Bogart's equipment. As far as MPPT Controller, if the Inverter/Charter is Magnum, then no reason not to look at the PT-100. If not, then just be sure you properly size your chosen Controller.)

Whatever gear you end up with, really learn the in's and out's of how to use it, proper battery management can pay dividends of longer living batteries:)!

As said, not scientific. But do it once, and go have some fun:)!
Smitty