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solar vs inverter generator

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

As some of you know my Yamaha 3000 iSEB was stolen.

I find myself back to considering a massive upgrade on the solar system (jumping to 2000 watts), or replacing the generator.

Going to 2k of solar would allow me to run the roof air from a large inverter.

I would need to have a rack fabricated to cover the entire roof of the RV. This would be more costly than replacing the generator--but it would give me a lot more independence, electrically speaking.

For the generator route, I need to decide between a Yamaha 3000 iSEB with Pinella remote added, or a much less expensive Champion 3500 watt inverter generator that comes with the remote right from the factory. I will need to have a secure rack fabricated to prevent another theft.

If I replace the Magnum, I have the possibility of moving to a 24 volt system, which would make upgrading the solar cheaper, and 24 volts DC to 120 AC is much easier on an inverter. It does add a layer of complexity as I'd have to have a DC to DC converter for all the 12 volt needs of the RV.

What choice would you make and why?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
33 REPLIES 33

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
GordonThree,

Partly a matter of the solar panels always charging the bank--so after a fairly short time the battery bank is full (if in storage). Even on Dec 21 I'd get about 17 amp-hours going into the bank (only if needed).

What I am doing works for me--I managed 9 years from Walmart Marine jars. I must admit that AGM and not having to lay in the snow to check electrolyte levels is a boon.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

While LI chemistry is certainly attractive, I need something that can be recharged at -30 (C or F--it's COLD out there).

No one has noted that 2000 watts of solar is overkill for a 556 amp-hour battery bank. The reason I want that is so even on a lousy day I'd get enough charging to keep the bank up (obviously no air needed at -30).


Your battery bank is outdoors? How did you keep it functional these past winters?

Lithium packs have heaters, trying to discharge while frozen can cause severe damage.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Don
2000w would be over kill for the average RVr
not for you, maybe not for me

going total electric, and using power all night, you need to recharge the batteries, while using power during the day time
my 679w is not enough and i must use the generator, and i heat with LP
you heat with electric, my fridge is electric residential, and you power your RV fridge from electric

the battery bank, is the overnight / bad weather power source, but for true solar independence the array has to be able to supply all daily needs while also recharging, i can't do that, a generator is a must have for me
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Energy audit?

Lead-acid or lithium does not perform well in that cold.
Lithium can be in a heated compartment. No vent needed.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

While LI chemistry is certainly attractive, I need something that can be recharged at -30 (C or F--it's COLD out there).

No one has noted that 2000 watts of solar is overkill for a 556 amp-hour battery bank. The reason I want that is so even on a lousy day I'd get enough charging to keep the bank up (obviously no air needed at -30).
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

lane_hog
Explorer II
Explorer II
Our approach is to never have a single point of failure... that's why I have solar on the roof for our normal consumption, and the generator as a backup or for when we want to run the big electrics like a microwave or A/C.

Going to a complete rooftop array sounds interesting, but I think I'd split the budget to accommodate a the Champion. You can always add to your rooftop incrementally later.
  • 2019 Grand Design 29TBS (had a Winnebago and 3x Jayco owner)
  • 2016 F-150 3.5L MaxTow (had Ram 2500 CTD, Dodge Durango)
  • 130W solar and 2005 Honda EU2000i twins that just won't quit

Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have solar that usually has our battery bank fully charged by midday. With that in mind, I wouldn't even consider RVing off the grid without a generator. Not an issue as we have an Onan onboard which powers our rig as if plugged into shorepower.

Onan has 1K hours over 9 years, plenty of life left providing reliable power to our rig. Even so, we purchased a Champion remote start inverter genny in March and it has been absolutely flawless. Our Onan, although incredibly durable, is overkill 90% of the time.

For the most part our generator gets very little use while RVing without hookups, but Mother Nature doesn't always provide great camping weather. RVing with my family I don't want compromises and that's when a properly sized genny shines above all else.

Of course we have solar, golfcart batteries, and both pure and modified sinewave inverters which all serve their purpose well. When circumstances demand more, a simple press of a button and all is well. Our Champion readily powers our AC, even at nearly 9K elevation.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I don't think PT
Needs a/c at night, I don't think he uses it every often even in the day
But does have the occasional heat wave
The trouble with an RV, is room for a massive battery bank to last through days of poor solar from bad weather, and roof space, we can't can't carry 5000w of solar
I have 679 watts on the roof , And 675 amp hrs of AGM batteries , and I would not be without a generator

Also PT like me..lives in the RV full-time
He does not want to go outside in the cold rain or snow to start the generator,

Yes we have to outside and put gas in it, but not in the middle of the rain storm
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Do you need air 24/7? Going to need a large enough lithium battery to get you through the night and a bit more. Probably best to install an ONAN designed for built-in RV service.

Just in the afternoon and a bit into the evening might be doable. I would still have a lithium battery for this service. I don't think lead-acid even AGM is really up for this service the same way as lithium.

JiminDenver
Explorer II
Explorer II
Don

You would need a lot less solar to run a A/C if you used one of these. It's 12000 BTU with a variable speed compressor. It starts out using more power than my 5000 BTU window shaker but drops down below it once it gets going.

click
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
..moving to a 24 volt system, which would make upgrading the solar cheaper, and 24 volts DC to 120 AC is much easier on an inverter.
As you probably know, I'm all for that. Smaller wiring, and especially good for running high amp draws like air. Things don't heat up like with the massive amp draws of 12v.

If you've just won the lottery, consider LiFePo batteries. Massive power sans Peukert and voltage drop.

I don't care if you have a googol watts of solar. A generator will still be needed.
pianotuna wrote:
.. I'd have to have a DC to DC converter for all the 12 volt needs of the RV.
I have a couple Victron converters and they are solid as a rock.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

naturist
Nomad
Nomad
Sorry to hear your generator was stolen. A pox on the house of the thief (along with a curse that he got it just in time for it to malfunction and burn up all his equipment just before exploding in flames).

Good luck.

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
MitchF150 wrote:
I've been watching this young couple for awhile on youtube (Gone with the Wynns) and they did run their AC on battery/solar.. Here is a vid on what they did to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0rZY5uotKI

Good luck!

Mitch


Those kids had $50,000+ worth of lithium phosphate batteries donated, not something many RVers will be so lucky to come across.

When they sold the RV they kept the fancy batteries for their boat.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
Hi BFL13,

Electric remote start is a "must" for my application.


That seems like going overboard to me as a requirement, and it is tying you in knots and costing you big bucks. You aren't going to use it very often, but when you need it, you need it.

My Honda 3000 doesn't have that and its battery died in the first year too, so it has been pull start since 2004. No big deal.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
I've been watching this young couple for awhile on youtube (Gone with the Wynns) and they did run their AC on battery/solar.. Here is a vid on what they did to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0rZY5uotKI

Good luck!

Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.