Staples coming through the rubber roof

I know what I would do rather than let an RV place screw it up real good,
I'd slit the rubber enuff to get that staple out, then stick a little dicor in thru the slit under the rubber, and give it a dab on top, then pretend it never happened.
At least that's been my experience w/ anything an RV place has ever even touched !

RJsfishin wrote:
I know what I would do rather than let an RV place screw it up real good,
I'd slit the rubber enuff to get that staple out, then stick a little dicor in thru the slit under the rubber, and give it a dab on top, then pretend it never happened.
At least that's been my experience w/ anything an RV place has ever even touched !

I'm with you on that! Even if you were scared to cut the top at all, use the self leveling Dicor over the staple and a few inches out in a circle.

Pull the staple and use eternbond tape over the hole.

As a technician who has done at least 10 over the past 2 years, here is the CORRECT procedure.
1, IF the staples are ONLY within 4 inches of the sidewall inward, you remove the side rail molding and gently lift the membrane up and remove the staples and we install countersunk screws and install a small dap of butyl over the head of the countersunk screw to not show on the top side. You then have to pull the roof membrane snug to prevent wrinkles and reattach the side rail moldings. IF done correctly, you cannot tell it was done
2. IF the Staples have already punctured the membrane OR there are some staples in the center of the roof, CR will authorize a COMPLETE new roof membrane with decking. This problem only happened on units built more than 1 to 2 years ago. After the problem came up CR changed the way the secured the decking and the side metal flashing. It was the side metal flashing staples that were lifting up.
3. To those that stated to slit and pull the staples and either Eternabond or Dicor----that kind of ruins the resale value and negates the idea of a roof with no extra holes or cuts. Now, if it was NOT warranty, then the more sensible idea would be to gently drive the staple back down and THEN install either Dicor or the Eternabond patch. WHY CUT THE ROOF??????????? Doug

Dicor may not do the job. Eternabond isn't great for looks, but if you clean the area with a solvent and put an Eternabond patch on it, that will be a repair better than the original membrane roof.

mlts22 wrote:
Dicor may not do the job. Eternabond isn't great for looks, but if you clean the area with a solvent and put an Eternabond patch on it, that will be a repair better than the original membrane roof.

That's how I'd do it. The dealer may do something much worse so I'd definitely fix it myself.
DONT expect them to replace the roof for a couple of staples.

Yup

ScottG wrote:

mlts22 wrote:
Dicor may not do the job. Eternabond isn't great for looks, but if you clean the area with a solvent and put an Eternabond patch on it, that will be a repair better than the original membrane roof.

That's how I'd do it. The dealer may do something much worse so I'd definitely fix it myself.
DONT expect them to replace the roof for a couple of staples.

Me too ... it's a roof ... nobody will see it and ensuring no leaks is worth the price of a little ugliness. You should see the roof top corners of my trailer that I "ENTOMBED" with Eternabond to solve what I call the "achilles heal" of all roofs and that is the ponding of water in the corner of the roof where the rear/front cap seam forms a right angle with the metal end molding for the sides to front/rear run up onto the roof. This junction is the source of 99% IMO of all corner type rot issues common in a lot of trailers.

Larry

instead of cutting the roof, why not use a small nail punch and smack the staple down, then smear some "stuff" over the tiny hole if any or impact area.
bumpy

You can bet that staple was flush w/ the roof at one time. Smack it down, and it will come up again. Vibration does really weird stuff sometimes.