Switching out amperage box

[Debbiepowers]

Ok, so I've been looking and have not seen this question arise. With all of the electrical conversions people use out there, (home power vs shore power etc) The one question I have is....what if instead of being limited by what your RV's electrical system can handle vs the amount of power available to you at the source (30amp / 50amp shore and 15amp home electrical outlet), could you theoretically just hard wire your RV with a 100amp box to use a 100/150/200amp electrical pole on your own property? I know you can just bypass your RV's electrical system with an extension cord from such a pole and run anything you want, but could you theoretically just wire (box and breakers, circuits / appropriately gauged wires etc) your RV for this purpose to begin with?

I am going to live in my 2005 gulfstream (gutted and rebuilt with non-VCO materials) and I need to be able to run my ac/heat, appliances year round and use whatever electronic devices I want.
I turned one end of the RV into a mobile sound studio and have a bunch of music equipment as well.

Is this possible?

[Rick_Jay]

Chris,

THAT is pretty cool!!! But I suspect no one was trying to live in the moho at the same time. LOL

Debbiepowers, Another thing that Chris' post brought to mind, is that IF your rig is easily moved, that could make it a prime target for theft if the wrong person/people find out about it. RVs in general are not "secure" vehicles by their design, so IF you have a lot of high dollar equipment in it, you might wish to incorporate a good anti-theft system in your design. While you have it stripped to the walls, it's a good time to do that if you have to run wires, etc. I know there are wireless solutions, but there's something to be said about good ol' fashioned switches too! 🙂

You might also chat with your insurance agent to see if you'll need additional coverage for that equipment. Most likely you will. Well, I know in Massachusetts you would, can't say for sure in other states.

~Rick

[Chris_Bryant]

A school I attended in the ‘’80’s had a GMC motorhome converted to a recording studio. Iirc, it had a 100 amp service that was hooked up using individual #2 cables and camlock connectors.
If it were me, If you have an existing 50 amp service, I would add a second 50 amp service for technical power, and run the electronics off it.

[Rick_Jay]

Debbiepowers wrote:
I am going to live in my 2005 gulfstream (gutted and rebuilt with non-VCO materials) and I need to be able to run my ac/heat, appliances year round and use whatever electronic devices I want.

Your profile says you're in Rhode Island. Is it your intention to spend the winter in Rhode Island (or the Northeast) with this rig? If you're staying at campgrounds, you'll have a hard time finding many open year-round here in New England. If you are planning on staying up north, you will have problems IF and WHEN the temps drop down through the teens and into the single digits and possibly below. You can't have too much insulation on your rig. If you have the opportunity to better insulate it at this stage, do so. Seal up all of the holes and add extra insulation wherever possible. You will need it. If you'll be in one spot for a long period of time, consider hay bales around the outside to minimize drafts under the rig.

If you're going to use the propane heater, you will use A LOT of propane on those cold nights (plan on a 20 lb. cylinder per day). If you're going to try to heat solely with electric heaters, again, you are going to need A LOT of electricity. You can only put one 1500W heater per 15A or 20A breaker branch circuit or else you'll trip the breaker. Since you talk about "one end" of the rig, I'm assuming this thing is about 30' long or so? In the coldest weather, you'll need atleast 3 or 4 1500 watt heaters running to keep the entire rig livable, let alone warm. Get quality heaters that have several settings (i.e. 600W/900W/1500W) so you can tailor the heat output to the outside temps. PLUS you'll need several 200 Watt smaller "personal" heaters down in the water bay, holding tank area, plumbing areas to keep them from freezing up. Will you have a source of water throughout this period?

In other words, when you're done running those heaters, you may have some additional juice left on a 50A service. BUT, you have to preplan and run the proper wires for the outlets where the heaters will be located. Normal RV outlets are generally not the best for sustained high-current load appliances as they use relatively cheap components. If you're down to the walls, then replace it all with quality stuff.

Does your rig have dual-pane windows? If single pane, expect even more problems with condensation and heatloss.

On the other hand, if you're driving the rig down to Florida in the winter....forget everything I said above! 🙂

Oh, one other thing, you mentioned turning it into a mobile sound studio? Are you going to be recording acoustical sounds (guitar & voice) as well as electronic sounds? If so, be advised that the acoustical insulation of most RVs isn't all that good either, so IF you're located near others, outside noises will perpetually be trying to find their way into your mix.

Good Luck,

~Rick

[PNW_Steve]

I am backward.......

I started out with rigs with 50a service and could rarely find a place to plug it in. (early '90s)

My current rigs both have 30a service and it suits my needs very well. And, of course, now I see 50a pedestals most places we go. 🙂

[ktmrfs]

there are lots of old houses with 50-75A main service still around. those built in the 20-40's. 50A service since it has two 50A legs may very well give you all you need for power. They often had gas HW and gas stoves and ovens.

Do a power analysis and I think you will find 50A may be very adequate even with a few 240 appliances.

[westernrvparkow]

Apparently, the RV is currently a 50 AMP unit. I wouldn't change anything since it will easily operate all the appliances and circuitry installed from the factory. On our rig with three ACs we never come close to maxing out a 50 amp circuit and we undertake zero load management.
If you change out the distribution panel to 100 amps you are probably going to need to change the incoming wiring (couldn't use the 50 amp plug and cable anymore, the wiring would be too small) 50 amp receptacles are not rated for 100 amps, so that end would need to be hardwired to the home panel. Furthermore, I don't think there is any wire rated for 100 amps that is not required to either be buried or run in conduit, so you may not be able to get a licensed electrician to do the work. The rig will then need additional circuits, meaning you will need to run wiring inside. You would also be killing any resale value because a buyer would probably just have a bunch of ????'s rolling around in their head thinking something must be amiss when they see a 100 amp panel and a weird power cord.
If your sound studio requires a whole lot of power (I have absolutely no idea) you could have an electrician install a separate panel and circuits (in conduit, not behind the walls) to serve only that equipment. It could either be fed by a separate 50 amp cord or hardwired directly to your home distribution panel (rendering your RV inoperable). Then if you decide to ever sell the rig you can remove the panel and circuits and only have a hole the size of the incoming wiring to worry about. If you brought the wiring in thru the floor in a closet and patched the hole, no one would ever know or care about your sound studio modifications.
The best advice you got was to try running everything as is to see if you even have an issue. My guess is you are going to be just fine.

[DrewE]

map40 wrote:

Now, if you decide to install a 240V appliance, it will need 240, so it would not run in a 110V 30A plug even if you are feeding both legs.
A 240V appliance could suffer damage if plugged in in this manner. Examples are a cooktop, water heater, AC, etc.

A purely 240V appliance (i.e. one that does not rely on the neutral or have some internal 120V circuitry) can not be harmed by this; it just won't work at all, as it has 0V applied to it and is effectively the same as being disconnected.

Most appliances that are 120/240V would also just not work properly. Typically the controls and timers would operate, but the heaters and motors and such don't have power. I'd be rather surprised if that caused damage, but I suppose anything is possible in theory.

[wa8yxm]

IN theory yes.
In practice it is a major job but it can and has been done
but most folks only re-wire for 50 amp RV service (50 amps at 240 volts divided between two legs. Some sales types call that 100 amp. it's really 50)

If you are parking it forever you can also use a 100 Amp House type box. but only if you are parking it for ever.

[map40]

Just make sure you don't install any 240 appliances, because you don't always have 240. Example: All RVs with 50 amp service use either leg, but ALL appliances are 110, so if you combine both circuits feeding it from a SINGLE 110 source they could all potentially run.
Now, if you decide to install a 240V appliance, it will need 240, so it would not run in a 110V 30A plug even if you are feeding both legs.
A 240V appliance could suffer damage if plugged in in this manner. Examples are a cooktop, water heater, AC, etc.

[pianotuna]

If the RV is 50 amp--try running all the items you would need at one time. Watch for voltage drop. If all is well--then don't change anything.

My RV is 30 amp. I added 2 auxiliary shore power cords, a 20, and a 15 amp.

The largest amount of power I've used is 7700 watts (not a continuous load).

[time2roll]

50 amp RV supply is good for 2 air conditioners, washer/dryer, microwave, water heater and tons of other stuff. I would stick with 50 amp unless you plan to have 240v cooking appliances.

You can also incorporate an energy management system that will shed loads as needed depending on the supply.

For further flexability you can get an inverter that will combine power with limited utility resources to run partially off battery during temporary heavy loads.

You can do virtually anything you like including a 200 amp panel if you must.

[Debbiepowers]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Go online and shop for a mariner's guide for setting up a high amperage box that includes 240 and 120

Thank you for the links, I will check them out.

[Debbiepowers]

MrWizard wrote:

a 50amp RV is (2) legs of 120v a 50amps each
total equals 100amps at 120v aka 12000 volt-amps

That makes sense. I am new to electric so I forgot about the spit in the box for a total. Yeah completely gutted, just installed the floors but the walls and ceiling are still bare. Old electrical is 30 amp and the box is laying on the floor so I have the opportunity to wire however I like but 50 amp box makes more sense in case I want to move it, use shore power somewhere etc without too much hassle.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Yes, and to have actual 240 available requires strict observance of NEC code fundamentals.

You wish substantial increases in amperage. So kiss-off RV circuit boxes period. trying to operate 80 amps through 50 amp aluminum conductors is a sure ticket to visit St Peter.

Go online and shop for a mariner's guide for setting up a high amperage box that includes 240 and 120. A box like that for a house is huge huge, and no not vibrate going down a highway. You very well may decide on a marine system.

https://www.bluesea.com/

https://panelwizard.bluesea.com/