Switching out amperage box

a 30 amp RV service is 30amps at 120v = 3600 volt-amps
a 50amp RV is (2) legs of 120v a 50amps each
total equals 100amps at 120v aka 12000 volt-amps

can an electrician replace your rv breaker panel with a a larger service ? yes
if there is room to mount it
yes he will have to rewire with proper gauge wire from outside to the service panel

if you have a 30amp rv, i would convert to 50amp RV service
modern sound recording equipment does not need a lot power

concert/Band Amplifiers for sound output need power, but its doubtful you need that inside the RV studio

BUT if you are gutting and rebuilding, get the electrician to Re-wire it anyway you want with as much service power as you are willing to pay for

Yes, and to have actual 240 available requires strict observance of NEC code fundamentals.

You wish substantial increases in amperage. So kiss-off RV circuit boxes period. trying to operate 80 amps through 50 amp aluminum conductors is a sure ticket to visit St Peter.

Go online and shop for a mariner's guide for setting up a high amperage box that includes 240 and 120. A box like that for a house is huge huge, and no not vibrate going down a highway. You very well may decide on a marine system.

https://www.bluesea.com/

https://panelwizard.bluesea.com/

MrWizard wrote:

a 50amp RV is (2) legs of 120v a 50amps each
total equals 100amps at 120v aka 12000 volt-amps

That makes sense. I am new to electric so I forgot about the spit in the box for a total. Yeah completely gutted, just installed the floors but the walls and ceiling are still bare. Old electrical is 30 amp and the box is laying on the floor so I have the opportunity to wire however I like but 50 amp box makes more sense in case I want to move it, use shore power somewhere etc without too much hassle.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Go online and shop for a mariner's guide for setting up a high amperage box that includes 240 and 120

Thank you for the links, I will check them out.

50 amp RV supply is good for 2 air conditioners, washer/dryer, microwave, water heater and tons of other stuff. I would stick with 50 amp unless you plan to have 240v cooking appliances.

You can also incorporate an energy management system that will shed loads as needed depending on the supply.

For further flexability you can get an inverter that will combine power with limited utility resources to run partially off battery during temporary heavy loads.

You can do virtually anything you like including a 200 amp panel if you must.

If the RV is 50 amp--try running all the items you would need at one time. Watch for voltage drop. If all is well--then don't change anything.

My RV is 30 amp. I added 2 auxiliary shore power cords, a 20, and a 15 amp.

The largest amount of power I've used is 7700 watts (not a continuous load).

Just make sure you don't install any 240 appliances, because you don't always have 240. Example: All RVs with 50 amp service use either leg, but ALL appliances are 110, so if you combine both circuits feeding it from a SINGLE 110 source they could all potentially run.
Now, if you decide to install a 240V appliance, it will need 240, so it would not run in a 110V 30A plug even if you are feeding both legs.
A 240V appliance could suffer damage if plugged in in this manner. Examples are a cooktop, water heater, AC, etc.

IN theory yes.
In practice it is a major job but it can and has been done
but most folks only re-wire for 50 amp RV service (50 amps at 240 volts divided between two legs. Some sales types call that 100 amp. it's really 50)

If you are parking it forever you can also use a 100 Amp House type box. but only if you are parking it for ever.

map40 wrote:

Now, if you decide to install a 240V appliance, it will need 240, so it would not run in a 110V 30A plug even if you are feeding both legs.
A 240V appliance could suffer damage if plugged in in this manner. Examples are a cooktop, water heater, AC, etc.

A purely 240V appliance (i.e. one that does not rely on the neutral or have some internal 120V circuitry) can not be harmed by this; it just won't work at all, as it has 0V applied to it and is effectively the same as being disconnected.

Most appliances that are 120/240V would also just not work properly. Typically the controls and timers would operate, but the heaters and motors and such don't have power. I'd be rather surprised if that caused damage, but I suppose anything is possible in theory.

Apparently, the RV is currently a 50 AMP unit. I wouldn't change anything since it will easily operate all the appliances and circuitry installed from the factory. On our rig with three ACs we never come close to maxing out a 50 amp circuit and we undertake zero load management.
If you change out the distribution panel to 100 amps you are probably going to need to change the incoming wiring (couldn't use the 50 amp plug and cable anymore, the wiring would be too small) 50 amp receptacles are not rated for 100 amps, so that end would need to be hardwired to the home panel. Furthermore, I don't think there is any wire rated for 100 amps that is not required to either be buried or run in conduit, so you may not be able to get a licensed electrician to do the work. The rig will then need additional circuits, meaning you will need to run wiring inside. You would also be killing any resale value because a buyer would probably just have a bunch of ????'s rolling around in their head thinking something must be amiss when they see a 100 amp panel and a weird power cord.
If your sound studio requires a whole lot of power (I have absolutely no idea) you could have an electrician install a separate panel and circuits (in conduit, not behind the walls) to serve only that equipment. It could either be fed by a separate 50 amp cord or hardwired directly to your home distribution panel (rendering your RV inoperable). Then if you decide to ever sell the rig you can remove the panel and circuits and only have a hole the size of the incoming wiring to worry about. If you brought the wiring in thru the floor in a closet and patched the hole, no one would ever know or care about your sound studio modifications.
The best advice you got was to try running everything as is to see if you even have an issue. My guess is you are going to be just fine.