Unsure about battery disconnect panel in RV

[bum4evr]

Heya I currently live in an RV that sits next to a house and is plugged into the houses power. There is a panel that says Battery Disconnect that looks like this:



Both are on right now, but pressing the coach button up or down does nothing, the light remains on, the chassis button does work though. My goal is to not be wasting power, especially since I discovered the fridge in this thing uses 10X more power then a home fridge.

Should I just leave it alone and leave both switches on?

Thanks for any help.

Sean G

[wa8yxm]

Image did not image.

However if that is an Intelletc panel the light means "12 volt system is live" it does not mean "Battery is connected"

What is the difference.. You said you are plugged in so the light is powered by the CONVERTER when you are pulgged in

Other systems.... I do not have but may work in like fashion.

If the switch is a 3-position spring return to center, as opposed to a toggle, Listen for a CLUNK somewhere .. ON a gasser under the hood is one spot. on all near the batteries It will CLUNK when the button is pushed. either way.

[MDKMDK]

bum4evr wrote:
Heya I currently live in an RV that sits next to a house and is plugged into the houses power. There is a panel that says Battery Disconnect that looks like this:



Both are on right now, but pressing the coach button up or down does nothing, the light remains on, the chassis button does work though. My goal is to not be wasting power, especially since I discovered the fridge in this thing uses 10X more power then a home fridge.

Should I just leave it alone and leave both switches on?

Thanks for any help.

Sean G

Delete. Misread OPs post.

[dougrainer]

bum4evr wrote:
I googled about how much power a motorhome fridge takes and here is what I read: "An absorption refrigerator uses heating elements that draw between 350 to 600 watts, depending on the size of the refrigerator, or about 10 times as much power as a conventional compressor driven refrigerator uses.Jan 29, 2010"

Not that I believe everything on the net, but it sounded reasonable.

Thanks for the advice - I guess I can just leave the switches on then.

Sean G

The largest RV refer has 2- 120 elements at 1.7 amps EACH. That is 3.4 amps at 410 watts total. BUT a RV refer will run LONGER to cool than a compressor type. So, yes, the RV refer will consume more power to do the job. Doug

[MrWizard]

10x is not correct
a 7.5 CuFt absorption fridge will use approx 350w on electric
an 8 Cuft compressor fridge will use approx 120w on when running

3x is more appropriate number

besides the op is talking about batteries and charging
this will not have any effect on the fridge
except for having it quit working and go off because of dead batteries

the battery disconnect will not affect is 120v power use

leave the it on, unless you want to replace your batteries

[bum4evr]

I googled about how much power a motorhome fridge takes and here is what I read: "An absorption refrigerator uses heating elements that draw between 350 to 600 watts, depending on the size of the refrigerator, or about 10 times as much power as a conventional compressor driven refrigerator uses.Jan 29, 2010"

Not that I believe everything on the net, but it sounded reasonable.

Thanks for the advice - I guess I can just leave the switches on then.

Sean G

[dougrainer]

1. The light stays ON because you are plugged into your 120 shore power. Disconnect the Shore Power and push STORE. The light should go OFF. If it does NOT, then the coach disconnect solenoid is bad(stuck)
2. Your refer does NOT use 10x more power. What makes you think this? Just turn the refer OFF, if you do not want it running.
3. A standard RV refer on 120 will pull 2.6 amps---310 watts AC power. Most residential's slightly less.
4. The Intellitec disconnect system you have uses "latching " solenoids. That means they use NO DC power to be engaged or disengaged. Doug