Does the upper panel lights work.......On/OFF, Auto, Gas ??
That measurement of the AC you posted :H
With voltmeter set to DC 20V.
Measure the DC for fridge at fridge terminal block
(Yes you can check for AC Ripple on DC..voltmeter set to AC 200V and then measure the AC Ripple on DC at the terminal block......MAX 6V AC. But your 20.5 +/- is WAY out of whack and would mean ALL of your DC appliances --- water heater, furnace, water pump, lights, etc would be seeing that same very high AC Ripple and they would be giving you issues. Measuring at fridge terminal block measures the voltage on the whole system...being supplied by converter OR battery.
More likely 2.95V AC vs that 29.5V AC)
Also check that the DC Neg connection is tight...loose causes milivolt signal which make control board do erratic things
Both DC POS & NEG should be tight (all 4 screws on terminal block)
Measure the DC Voltage....low voltage would be issue (below 10V)
Good voltage (above 11V---better if 12+)
Did you check that the fuses were good by testing them (continuity thru fuse) or just look at them?
TESTS
With On/Off Switch "OFF" (don't test in ON position!!!)
The 3A fuse is DC Controls.....j1 12V DC POS---j2 to interior light/climate control (j10 is ground)
If you have good DC Voltage between j1 & j10 then check for DC Voltage on P1 connector (top left lower board)
P1 6 pin connector (numbering starts bottom left to top left ---1,2,3 then bottom right to top right ---4,5,6)
Check for voltage between pin 4 (orange wire) and pin 5 (red wire).
No voltage on orange wire.....(Have good DC Voltage at terminal block, between j1 & j10) then bad circuit board
Test/measure DC Voltages
Also with fridge in Auto it would swap to GAS if AC Power was lost (even momentarily) but if GAS couldn't light off (tank valved out) then it would fail and trigger fault light (Check Light)
