I have 4 T-125's wired in series and parallel on my trailer tongue. I have the solar controller sitting in the storage compartment adjacent (at max 3' wiring distance), and I was planning to put my Kisae 2000w inverter there as well.Here's what I'm thinking for my wiring:1 gauge wiring between the batteries in series & parallel (1' length for series, 2' for parallel runs), then 2' of 1 gauge to a set of power posts near the exit from the battery box. From there 3' of 1 gauge to the storage compartment and another set of posts, where I'd hook up the inverter and solar controller.Total wire run of 1 gauge from the batteries to the inverter would be max 6 feet - 1 foot from inverter to post, 3 feet to next post, then 2 feet to battery leads. Solar would be same, but 2 gage, leads can't take 1 gauge. Solar is collecting 500 watts from 4 12v panels.Comments or suggestions?

Your inverter wiring is likely to be too small to run high-amperage draw stuff like MW and coffee makers. Your inverter manual should state at least 1/0 and more likely 4/0.Smaller picture:

That wire between the batteries and the inverter is too small. I've got 2/0 for a two foot run.You can get gauge adapters so you could use the 1 gauge with the solar controller.

EsoxLucius wrote:That wire between the batteries and the inverter is too small. I've got 2/0 for a two foot run.If I read his post right, it's 6' of 1AWG for 2000W @ 12V (166A). That's about a 2% loss. 1/0 would be less of course... but necessary?

Validate final setup (solar, batteries, inverter)

phemens
Explorer
Sep 06, 2015
So, just to close the book on this for those that may refer to it later:
I went with '00' for all the battery interconnects, and '0000' to the inverter from the distribution posts. Inverter handles the coffee maker and the microwave just fine.
Wiring gauge made all the difference!
2oldman
Explorer II
Aug 20, 2015
phemens wrote:
so I'm not sure I see the advantage of switching to 24v @ 420w total vs staying at 12v and 490w total?
Higher voltage allows for slightly less line loss PV to controller, and smaller wire to work with. No big gain, really, although it's pretty cool to run 100+v ! Watch those fingers!
phemens
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
Nope, there are 200w 12vdc panels available.
Right now I have 2x 80x and a 130w. If I add another 130w, I could convert to 24v, but I don't have room to add other panels after that, so I'm not sure I see the advantage of switching to 24v @ 420w total vs staying at 12v and 490w total?
BFL13
Explorer II
Aug 18, 2015
I thought a 200w panel had to be 24v
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 18, 2015
Hi,

If you place them in series you will have 80 watts x 4 for 320 watts.

phemens wrote:
I'm not paralleling anything, it's all 12v panel.
phemens
Explorer
Aug 18, 2015
BFL13 wrote:
phemens wrote:
Ok, so based on feedback, I'll run 1 gauge on the battery interconnects, and 1 gauge from each of the battery sets to distribution posts. From there I'll go 4/0 direct to the inverter, and hook up the solar controller leads to the inverter.

Last question - I have 3 solar panels already, all 12v (2 x 80w, 1 x 130w), was going to add a 4th (200w) to get to 500w total, which my controller can handle (it's maxxed at that stage). They'll all be wired in parallel, what gauge wire would be recommended from the array to the controller? Currently I have the wire going down the rear of the trailer and back up front, run of ~ 30 feet, I can re-do this to minimize the run at the front of the trailer down to the controller, maybe to 15 feet.

Thanks!

You can't parallel 24v panels with 12v panels unless you get the 12v panels wired as a 24 to parallel with the 24

On the set-up, where is the Trimetric shunt? If not why not? Gotta have a Tri! :)

I'm not paralleling anything, it's all 12v panel.
2oldman
Explorer II
Aug 17, 2015
phemens wrote:
, I'll run 1 gauge on the battery interconnects, and 1 gauge from each of the battery sets to distribution posts. From there I'll go 4/0 direct to the inverter, and hook up the solar controller leads to the inverter.
Ok. If the MW still gags, use 1/0 instead of #1. If that doesn't work, get a better inverter.
EsoxLucius
Explorer
Aug 17, 2015
I just checked mine this morning and found I was mistaken, I have 4/0 on about a two foot run, including a catastrophic fuse, between the inverter and batteries.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Aug 17, 2015
The victron is a better unit than the trimetric. I don't use either.
BFL13
Explorer II
Aug 17, 2015
phemens wrote:
Ok, so based on feedback, I'll run 1 gauge on the battery interconnects, and 1 gauge from each of the battery sets to distribution posts. From there I'll go 4/0 direct to the inverter, and hook up the solar controller leads to the inverter.

Last question - I have 3 solar panels already, all 12v (2 x 80w, 1 x 130w), was going to add a 4th (200w) to get to 500w total, which my controller can handle (it's maxxed at that stage). They'll all be wired in parallel, what gauge wire would be recommended from the array to the controller? Currently I have the wire going down the rear of the trailer and back up front, run of ~ 30 feet, I can re-do this to minimize the run at the front of the trailer down to the controller, maybe to 15 feet.

Thanks!

You can't parallel 24v panels with 12v panels unless you get the 12v panels wired as a 24 to parallel with the 24

On the set-up, where is the Trimetric shunt? If not why not? Gotta have a Tri! :)

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