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warped brake roters

awinfs
Explorer
Explorer
Question. do wheel trims contribute to warped front brake roters.
94 dutchman class c.454chev.O.D.trans.Hydraboost brakes.front disc rear drum.
I'm going to continue this with a voice to type program so excuse errors.
My motorhome is old-school. With the old school flying saucer style stainless steel full wheel trim covers.
This is my second set of rotors in 10 years. A pair of rotors and a set of brake pads is $450.
My wife and friends loved the wheel trim covers. If it was left to me I would just remove the front ones and paint the wheels
I do get off the beaten track. Our last trip was to the eastern tip of the Gaspรฉ Peninsula in Quรฉbec.
The end of that run is real hilly and tight. I am an experienced motorhome driver and despite using the transmission I came back with warped rotors. I would value some opinions.
I hate the Hydra boost brakes. They work okay but require a lot of pedal pressure.
The motor home runs good and has 100,000 miles on it I intend to keep patching it up and running it.
22 REPLIES 22

mhoefer
Explorer
Explorer
I see your in Canada. Getting stock parts is often a problem. They are usually a much better quality that replacement. What I think you should do is go to NAPA or other supply and ask for the top of the line rotors, pads, calipers and flex lines for the front. Don't bother turning rotors, they will be to thin and warp, they just won't have the heat capacity for the front of your rig. Also, if I were you, I would do the same, full kit on the back, new pads, rear drums, internal brake parts kit including the star wheels. These parts don't last forever and a big part of fronts is the caliper slide pins and sticking which causes big uneven wear and warping. In the drums on the back, same thing holds true, poor adjustments, means you are pushing the pedal a long way. Once this is all done, bleed all the old fluid out, new fluid with no water in it doesn't boil as easy and is going to perform much better. Finally, you have a hydro boost, replace the fluid in it, suck out the tank, place in new, jack up front and cycle wheels side to side, suck out the fluid again, replace with new fluid(mercon transmission fluid, it also runs the power steering right?) Do this several times. This is all very important, your hydro boost is telling you it's not happy, you should not have to push so hard, the hydro boost is used on F250, F350 diesels for many years, and is still used today. Make sure this is all working properly, I am thinking this all needs to be done right so you can get the full performance of the braking system back.

Salvo
Explorer
Explorer
Check your rear brakes before you leave!

awinfs wrote:

When I have finished the front brakes I may check the back ones out if I have time before I go to Florida
thanks for the input guys

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Let me re-visit some of the remarks about the Rear Drum Brakes. Our first Class C was Ford, but it was Front Disc/Rear Drum. It had been sitting, or at least infrequently used, for years. I did a front disc job with Pads, Calipers and Hoses. Calipers/Pads were so stuck the Pads came out in rust-crusted pieces after beating them apart. Braking much better (at least we had some...) but not Good. Couple years later, tackled the rear with help from an experienced truck mechanic. Well, actually I helped him... What we found was, Yes, stuck adjusters. But more than that. Stuck Wheel Cylinders. And NEW linings. AND Drums with machining marks in the braking surfaces. Somebody did a brake job then parked it long enough that the Cylinders Rusted Stuck and the New Shoes never applied to the Re-Surfaced (or maybe new) Drums.
The Front Disc Brakes WILL stop a Class C. At least with tons of following distance, and we had a few close calls. But that will overheat the Front Brakes, Glaze the Pads, Warp the Rotors, so on and et cetera.
So "are the Rears in Good Order?" is an outstanding question.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
What pads are you putting on?
Did the old pads wear evenly?
Have the rears been verified to be in proper order?

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
That old and all those miles, I must ask: Have you replaced the Flexible Brake Hoses??? They can break down internally and become "one way." Fluid pressure from brake application can't fully escape the calipers. The brakes drag, overheat...
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

awinfs
Explorer
Explorer
just to clarify; this will be the third set of rotors from new.
I fitted the last set myself; with new pads.
i torqued the wheels of properly. Not using an air gun.
This style of van' went out of production a long time ago
oem parts are difficult to find and very expensive.
The rotors were not worn and the pads were still good.
When the brakes cooled down; the brake shudder was not so bad but it came back again under heavy braking
anyway I've bought new brake rotors; Chinese and new brake pads Chinese the only thing I could find made in the US was the grease for the wheel bearings
it's sad isn't it
I'm rebuilding the brakes carefully and checking the steering components out for wear. But I have found nothing obvious
apparently no one thinks that the flying saucer wheel trim covers may have contributed to the overheating problem. The wife will be pleased because she's loves them.
When I have finished the front brakes I may check the back ones out if I have time before I go to Florida
thanks for the input guys

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
If I counted right the OP is on his 3rd set of rotors. The factory ones plus the two replacements.

I would have the rotors trued up/turned, checked for proper thickness and go from there.

Rockrash
Explorer
Explorer
When you buy a new set of rotors, have them turned before the first install. New rotors are warped from the manufacturer due to production and cooling. I've worked on more brakes than most people, and I've never seen good rotors out of the box.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I remember seeing stacks of pallets of rotors ready to be machined at the CINSA plant in Monclova Mexico. They were for Ford F-450 chassis. Direct from the Sicartsa steel mill.

I elect to remain with OEM grade pads and not be tempted by sintered metal or ceramic.

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
Salvo wrote:
At least your rotor didn't separate...





It didn't sound too good, but braking was still adequate. No brake pad indicator light went on. All my outside pads wore faster than the inside pad that had the low-pad sensor.


I think I can read a news paper through those things!

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
lryrob9301 wrote:
At 100,000 miles I would suspect the rotors were worn thin and needed replacing.

Under normal conditions, 100K miles will do little if any wear to brake rotors. Serious rotor wear would come from running pads to "steel on steel", and or turning (machining) them too many times.
Then again, if they were run a lot in sand and gravel, that could take its toll on rotors I'd guess, but I have never seen that.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Salvo
Explorer
Explorer
At least your rotor didn't separate...





It didn't sound too good, but braking was still adequate. No brake pad indicator light went on. All my outside pads wore faster than the inside pad that had the low-pad sensor.

othertonka
Explorer
Explorer
Warped rotors can also be caused by improper tightening sequence with an air gun. Should use an torque wrench for the final tightening of the lug nuts. The chrome wheel covers probably have nothing to do with the problem since most are held on with jam nuts after the lugs are torqued.
Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS 8.1 Workhorse chassis
2002 CRV Toad
U. S. Gear Unified brake system
Retired Fire Captain, SFD

the_bear_II
Explorer
Explorer
Heavy load, China Made rotors, overworked brakes due to hilly conditions can result in warped rotors.