Water heater anode rod

Must be some good water along the West Coast! This anode was installed 10/16. I checked it 10/17 and re installed. I checked it yesterday and flushed out the tank with NOTHING coming out. I added liquid teflon to the threads and re installed. Will check again 10/19.

Picture posting does not seem to be working right now.

UPDATE

I would start with the 3/8 impact at a low setting. Rattle a bit and then inch up the pressure. Use the big gun as a last resort.

I have a cheap tap that I bought off ebay to chase those threads - just enough to get the crud out of the threads. And I always use Teflon tape on the install.

Yes, when anode/heater threads are rusted, or corroded, WH can be damaged by use of impact, or cheater bar. If you do get it out, the use of teflon tape will make next removal much easier. Be sure to clean up the threads before reinstalling.

Jerry

HadEnough wrote:
Any tips on getting corroded rods out of water heaters?

I can't seem to turn mine at all.

An impact wrench will get it out, but there is the possibility of damage.

Any tips on getting corroded rods out of water heaters?

I can't seem to turn mine at all.

SidecarFlip wrote:
I miss the Atwood HWH I ad in my old camper. No anode rod needed. The tank was glass lined.

I understand that Atwood has an aluminum tank and Suburban has a glass lined steel tank. The anode rod is to protect the glass to steel transition at connections.

SidecarFlip wrote:
Don't substitute an aluminum rod for the magnesium OEM rod. Your Suburban water heater tank could get a hole in it if you do.

You have another season left on your rod. I'd get a spare just in case and don't forget to flush out your tank before reinstalling your old rod, the white stuff is sitting in the bottom of your hot water tank and needs flushed out.

Suburban supplies BOTH
Magnesium is OEM rod cause it provides the most protection BUT can react with microbes in water supply and give off a sulfur smell

Aluminum is OPTIONAL rod. Doesn't provide same level of protection as magnesium but is a good option when magnesium creates issues

Pros/cons for either

how long depends a great deal on the water you use. For us and many of the places we go, the anode rod will last 5 years or more. Anode rod in our S&B lasts 15-20 years, as long as the water heater. Now my folks and brother in midwest replace S&B anode rod every few years and have yet to get 10 years out of a S&B water heater.

2 years old, you've got another 5+ years to go with the water you've been using. Less if you run into some bad stuff.

As long as there's some sacrificial metal left at the end of the season, all is good. Looks like you've got at least 80-90% left.

SidecarFlip wrote:
I miss the Atwood HWH I ad in my old camper. No anode rod needed. The tank was glass lined.

Same here.

I gave this one a flush when I was winterizing and was surprised with the flakes and sediment that came out, which I assume is the remains of the rod. I hope none of it decides to make its way to the plumbing fixtures...