Water heater help

sch911 wrote:
If it's a Suburban WH it uses an Anode rod not a drain plug.

Schematics.........

Anode rod IS the drain plug.
Cut off anode part and you still have a drain plug. :B

If it's a Suburban WH it uses an Anode rod not a drain plug.

Like suggested..open access door and LOOK

Drain plug not installed....install and tighten
T&P Relief Valve stuck open...flip lever and let it snap closed....do couple times

Now IF the tank is cracked or it is leaking from around welded components then you have to replace the WHOLE water heater. Suburban does NOY have replacement tanks...

Can replace with a Suburban of same size---ie: 10 gal (could use a Atwood but would have to completely redo opening as they are different sizes)

PPL usually has sales that are lower then other sources. And your SW10D is propane only with electronic ignition so it is on the lower price scale vs combo unit---which you could install just have to add 120V AC power source and run wiring

Right now PPL has SW10DE.......propane/electric for $392
And a SW10D.......propane DSI for $362

New complete water heater....except door----use your old one
PPL LINK

Don't forget the pressure relief valve. They don't ordinarily suddenly fail but I had one years ago that did. Worked fine one time out and shortly thereafter on another trip I hooked up and turned on the water and it just poured out.

Thanks! Totally didn't even think about the plug hopefully that's it

Check that the drain plug is installed in the water heater. Someone may have removed it to drain and left it out.

Also try to find the exact location. It might not be the water heater, but the pressure relief valve or one of the connections.