water heater leakin pressure release valve

[Golf_Guy]

I noticed today the pressure release valve on my water heater has a very slow drip. How often should that valve be replaced and is now the time. Doesn't seem like a complicated job any precautions that should be taken? What is the life expectancy of a water heater? Coach is 10 years old. Should the heater be replaced at a predetermined age or just wait for it to burn out? There is certainly a fair amount of rust at the drain plug.

[Old-Biscuit]

jbrad13 wrote:
Check your water heater operators manual. See what is says about a weeping pressure release valve.

BOTH (Suburban & Atwood) will have info on air pocket and weeping relief valve

[jbrad13]

Check your water heater operators manual. See what is says about a weeping pressure release valve.

[larry_barnhart]

I do the air chamber deal but after the winter 2 seasons ago the relief valve was dripping. At home I removed it and soaked it in vinegar for a couple of days. It looked new again and is still doing a good job and will soon be 14 years old.

I soak the entire plumbing system in vinegar each summer for 2 days and drain and rinse the water lines.
chevman

[racer4]

I was surprised how easy my 16 year old T&P valve came out. I barely got the pipe wrench seated on the valve and it moved. My first thought was the wrench slipped, then I realized the valve was moving.

Very easy job.

My valve was different size than what the hardware store had. Get the number on the valve and google it. I found a Camco valve that matched and was available at the local RV shop and online.

If the sheet metal for the exhaust heat is in the way of the wrench, it is easy to remove.

[MR_MAC]

Cool Canuck wrote:

RJsfishin wrote:
Ironically, mine has dripped for a year or more. A week ago it got drastically worse. So I opened and closed it a few times, and it got worse yet, pumping water out like an open faucet !
I couldn't even imagine taking a pipe wrench to a 13 yr old heater, so I tefelon taped a 3/4" PVC plug and screwed it into the opening. Not leaking a drop,....and I have this feeling it will stay that way, unless I decide to somehow connect a new one to the old one.

That should start some conversation.

I would get that plug out quick, or you will be replacing the water heater, and repairing the damage done to your rig, and could be human
damage also. also do NOT put a new relif valve into the old one, the PVC plug may blow out but two valve will blow up. Ive seen this happen several times.

[Dusty_R]

I've had the bladder go out 3 times in my home water system.

[Chris_Bryant]

RJsfishin wrote:
God,.....don't panic ok ?? I forgot to mention that I have a shure-flo bladder tank in the system, JUST AS EVERY SYSTEM SHOULD HAVE !!
I am settled in for a couple months, and not about to twist a bung out of the 13 yr old tank, and then what ???

That's great- instead of the water heater tank blowing the plastic bladder can blow- no doubt in a much better place to be inundated with boiling water.
Removing the T&P valve is trivial- I have never had any problem on tanks up to 30 years old (actually, never had a problem with *any* tank- just don't see too many that old).

[Old-Biscuit]

RJsfishin wrote:
God,.....don't panic ok ?? I forgot to mention that I have a shure-flo bladder tank in the system, JUST AS EVERY SYSTEM SHOULD HAVE !!
I am settled in for a couple months, and not about to twist a bung out of the 13 yr old tank, and then what ???

Oh yeah...that makes it better :S

[RJsfishin]

God,.....don't panic ok ?? I forgot to mention that I have a shure-flo bladder tank in the system, JUST AS EVERY SYSTEM SHOULD HAVE !!
I am settled in for a couple months, and not about to twist a bung out of the 13 yr old tank, and then what ???

[Old-Biscuit]

RJsfishin wrote:
Ironically, mine has dripped for a year or more. A week ago it got drastically worse. So I opened and closed it a few times, and it got worse yet, pumping water out like an open faucet !
I couldn't even imagine taking a pipe wrench to a 13 yr old heater, so I tefelon taped a 3/4" PVC plug and screwed it into the opening. Not leaking a drop,....and I have this feeling it will stay that way, unless I decide to somehow connect a new one to the old one.

Two issues:

First......doing what you have done. Water heaters have safety devices for a very good reason. Normal t-stat to control heating/operation, a higher temp t-stat as a backup to normal and then the T&P as a final safety device.
I operated boilers for a living, steam will KILL. A overheated/over-pressurized water heater WILL explode.

Please for your safety, your families safety and those that are innocent bystanders safety.............DO NOT CAP THE T&P.
If too afraid of replacing..let it drip.

Second......posting the idea of capping off the T&P is wrong and should NOT be suggested either directly OR indirectly.
This is NOT something to mess around with.

[Jaxom]

I like the idea of turning a leak into a bomb...cool!

[j-d]

The old Relief Valve is probably installed with Teflon Tape and/or Thread Dope. In either event it should come right out.

Personally speaking, although I would never plug a Relief Valve, I also never "test" them by releasing periodically. I've found the sealing surfaces get calcified and they drip once disturbed.

If the issue doesn't turn out to be Air Pocket, just get a new Valve and be done with it.

[Harvard]

double double

[Harvard]

Here is a good explanation of a closed water system. In this case it includes back water flow preventers in city water systems.

Closed Water Systems cw Hot Water Tanks

QUOTE: "The Solution: The best solution to thermal expansion
is to control the pressure it generates within a normal,
safe operating range, well below the emergency setting
of the relief valve. This can be accomplished by
installing an expansion tank which will allow thermal
expansion to occur, but without causing a dangerous
increase in pressure."
END QUOTE: