Water Heater - No Light

[Okie1]

I have a Suburban SW10DEL water heater and the igniter goes through its three cycles but no fire. I was wondering how you check the gas solenoid/valves. I think that one of them is bad.

[oldbeek]

You can pull the 1/8 plug next to the jet and see what gas pressure you get there. My last water heater problem, everything worked right BUT a bug pooped inside my main jet. Welding torch tip cleaner was used to clean out the plugged jet. Then all worked well. Also had a jet partially plugged on my frig last year. Flame was on but not enough to cool the frig. Cleaned jet, all was ok.

[Harvard]

A good coil has a resistance of about 40 Ohms. There are 2 coils and both are required to work. It is a common Suburban WH failure for a coil to go open circuit.

[DaHose]

Confirm voltage at the solenoids first. If voltage looks good, then disconnect the solenoids and put 12v to each one from a battery. With no other noises happening, you will be able to hear the solenoids clicking. If it is the solenoids, you can replace them for $80 or so.

I should add that if the solenoids do work, I was able to make hot water on one trip by using a long jumper wire to activate the solenoids and using a lighter to ignite the burner. Not entirely safe and I had to monitor the water temp. at the pressure release, but I made it through the trip and repaired the solenoids later.


Jose

[jetcare]

Old Biscuit gave you the correct procedure.

You will probably find 12VDC on the brown wires at the solenoid during ignition. If you do, turn off the water heater LP switch and pull the brown and black wires from the two gas valve solenoids. Using an Ohm Meter, check each coil. You should read about 40 ohms. One of the coils will probably read open. If so the valve is bad.

My experience is that the inboard coil is bad 9 out of 10 times.
Usually the result of the Pressure Relief Valve dripping water on the coil for a long period of time.

[btd35]

A quick check,.... put a wrench on top of the gas valve coil when the ignitor is sparking. If it is energized, it will have a magnetic pull. Sure you have gas to it? Sometimes it takes a number of tries to get the line purged.

[Old-Biscuit]

Check for 12V DC at each solenoid WHEN sparking is happening....DC voltage is applied to solenoids and ignitor at same time.

Also, check the following
Good strong spark? SPark gap should be 1/8"
Main gas orifice is not plugged......brass insert on gas valve
Burner tube is clear...no spider webs etc

[jamway]

Check the ground and clean it if needed. Check all the spade plugs (clips) and clean them if needed.

We had about the same problem and cleaning all of that stuff fixed it. Maybe it will work for you.