Water heater not putting out water

[thewaggonerfami]

We had water that didn't get blown out of our water supply lines the winter before last and burst the pipes. I was really sick last with my pregnancy last summer and we didn't camp and the camper sat fallow all last year. So this year I decided rather than trying to repair the split cpvc pipes where they were split, to make the leap and replace all the supply pipes in the camper in Pex with the crimp style clamps. I basically duplicated the cpvc plumbing layout exactly in the Pex. This was my first experience in Pex and I got it all done with no leaks this weekend while camping and in between nursing my 5 mo old. Go me! 🙂

So, all the Pex was leak free, but one of the female, hand tighten, screw type connections coming off the water heater on the hot water, out line that screwed into the Pex had a tiny drip. When we went to turn on the hot water, it came out rusty looking with lower pressure than the cold, then went down to a trickle then a drip. If I turned off the spigots, when I turned them back on, I got a trickle then a drip again.

Any ideas what is wrong or how to trouble shoot it? The cold water is fine, high pressure. Could it be scale or rust from the water heater blocking the out line? Or is it something else? If its scale, how do I clean/flush it out? Are there directions on the web?

Thanks!

PS I can get pics and brand name if needed. But I am inside nursing the baby, so JLMK if you need it. Its the basic RV water heater that came with the TT with a switch on the front of the sink to ignite it. When I realized there was no water coming off, I turned the water heater off immediately in case there was no water in the water heater tank.

[Old-Biscuit]

Should be able to unscrew that 'elbow fitting/connector' from the Bypass Valve (diverter valve)
THEN unscrew the whole 'elbow fitting/connector' from the Brass nipple (check valve)
THEN unscrew Check Valve from WH Tank

[j-d]

See, toldya I wasn't a net guru. Luckily we have some who are, Drew...

What I DID notice was the disconnect feature built into that gangle (technical plumbing term) of fittings leading away from the brass check valve. Looks like it enables replacing the check valve without having to cut, or glue, or crimp, any of the plumbing to do it. That's nice!

Hmmm... Looking again, maybe not. I thought the piece to the right of the elbow was a "union" type part that would spin back and release the elbow. Which would allow the elbow to be removed from or with the check valve. Now I'm not so sure. Might have to take the water line off at the tee past the valve and then see what'll unscrew... Hmmm...

[DrewE]

j-d wrote:

Also, RV.net kept re-setting the connection. I logged on as Woodalls.com and posted this. Same ID and password as RV.net works in Woodalls, Trailer Life, maybe others.

The RV.net gateway doesn't like the percent symbol (in the URL for the image). Oddly if you force it to use a secure connection (by changing the rv.net URL to an https URL and reloading the page) it will accept the dangerous/evil percent character.

[j-d]

Here's your picture:



Yes, the Check Valve is the Brass Piece. I carry a spare one, but haven't had a problem with one yet, two RV's over 18 years.

I copied your photo link into the Post Picture (looks like a postcard) option in Advanced Post Form. That gave me some kind of imbalance. One was in a square bracket and it came up with an extra "/img" statement.

I think... I'm not an interned guru so I can't explain the pic any better.

Also, RV.net kept re-setting the connection. I logged on as Woodalls.com and posted this. Same ID and password as RV.net works in Woodalls, Trailer Life, maybe others.

[Dutch_12078]

The check valve is the brass fitting between the elbow and the hot outlet in your photo.

[thewaggonerfami]

Not sure what I'm doing wrong with posting the photo.

[thewaggonerfami]

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l89/mamaWag/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/AB0DF79F-3F77-418F-8EF5-9454FE85A20B_zpsbyssci6u.jpg[/IMG]
]http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l89/mamaWag/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/AB0DF79F-3F77-418F-8EF5-9454FE85A20B_zpsbyssci6u.jpg[/IMG]

[thewaggonerfami]

I can't take it apart today, but here is a pic of the top/back of the water heater. Which one of these is the check valve? The good news is that it appears to have a diverter valve already installed.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l89/mamaWag/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-07/AB0DF79F-3F77-418F-8EF5-9454FE85A20B_zpsbyssci6u.jpg[/IMG]

[Old-Biscuit]

IF bypass was issue then you would get cold water flow out of hot water side of faucets

If water heater was still filling you would get spurts of air/water out of hot side of faucets

Check valve in water heater HOT out is clogged up.
It is a cheap plastic plunger/spring/o-ring assembly that easily fails/clogs
Especially when water in water heater is old rusty scaly water.

Drain and thoroughly flush water heater tank
Replace anode rod if you water heater is a SUBURBAN (Atwood doesn't use them)
Remove hot line fitting at water heater (check/clean inside of fitting)
Remove 'nipple' in hot out on WH Tank.....check valve is internal of nipple.
Replace with new check valve

[Boon_Docker]

DrewE wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:
The aerator screen on the faucet could be plugged, unscrew it and see if you get a good flow.

Probably not in this case, since the cold water works well. There are not too many heat-sensitive things that can clog an aerator screen.

You are right.
Just not thinking today.:Z

[DrewE]

Boon Docker wrote:
The aerator screen on the faucet could be plugged, unscrew it and see if you get a good flow.

Probably not in this case, since the cold water works well. There are not too many heat-sensitive things that can clog an aerator screen.

I can think of three reasonable explanations:

1. Water heater check valve, as described by others.
2. Water heater bypass valve(s), either misinstalled or misconfigured.
3. The water heater is not yet filled. (This may be a long shot, granted, but sometimes the simplest problems are the hardest to suss out!)

[Boon_Docker]

The aerator screen on the faucet could be plugged, unscrew it and see if you get a good flow.

[BluegrassBill]

X2 on check valve (prevents back flow of hot water ) Its the top fitting on the tank that the hot out line hooks onto. It's a $10.00 part and easy to change if you can get to it.

[Shadow_Catcher]

Also did you install a bypass valve for winterizing.