Water heater not working

[Teleman]

I just bought a 2000 Airstream Land Yacht and the water heater isn't working. The light doesn't go on when I turn the switch on. The fuse in the panel is good. The switch on the unit is on. There is water in the unit, valves open, etc. Shouldn't the light at the switch go on even if the mother board was bad, or there was some other problem at the water heater?

[Waiter21]

On my Atwood, (propane only) The light illuminates when there is a problem and the burner did not light.

[Old-Biscuit]

Teleman wrote:

Bobbo wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
Specs for that RV say only that it is a "10 gal gas/electric w Motor Aid"
So model of the Atwood still needed. (what is motor aid?)

My previous Winnebago Class C had a functioning "motor aid" water heater. Just like a radiator hose runs to your vehicle heater to heat the vehicle in cold weather, a radiator hose runs to a pipe running through your water heater. It heats the water in your water heater while you drive so that when you park, you already have hot water.

I see heater hoses running into the back of the water heater so apparently I have the same model. How hot does it get the water?

Roughly 130*F after 2 hours drive time
The 'heat exchanger'/'motor-aid' is just a 1/2" tube on exterior of tank wall ---hot engine coolant flows from engine thru tube back to engine

[Bobbo]

Not as hot as propane, but uncomfortably hot to the touch.

[Teleman]

Bobbo wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
Specs for that RV say only that it is a "10 gal gas/electric w Motor Aid"
So model of the Atwood still needed. (what is motor aid?)

My previous Winnebago Class C had a functioning "motor aid" water heater. Just like a radiator hose runs to your vehicle heater to heat the vehicle in cold weather, a radiator hose runs to a pipe running through your water heater. It heats the water in your water heater while you drive so that when you park, you already have hot water.

I see heater hoses running into the back of the water heater so apparently I have the same model. How hot does it get the water?

[Old-Biscuit]

BFL13 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Teleman wrote:
Cleaned the multipin connector on the board and it fired right up. Indicator light still isn't working but a minor issue I'll address later.

Light on On/Off Switch is a FAULT Light---should come on when:
*Propane Flame Fails to light/fails to prove it lit
*ECO has tripped (failure of normal temp T-stat)

Reset Fault Light...turn switch Off then back ON

It seems odd to me that Atwood would change how that on/off switch works with the red light. Must be confusing where it does one thing with some models and another thing with other models.

I have the Direct Ignition GH6-6E except with a newer control board and flame sensor set-up. The OEM red light works the same though. It comes on as soon as you turn the switch to "on" and it goes out when the heater starts (when you hear it come on) After that, if there is trouble and it does not stay lit the red light comes back on. (now acting as the fault light)

However the manual's schematic calls it the "Non-Ignition Light", but then says in the instructions for starting after you turn the switch to "on", "If the switch light stays on longer than 15 seconds, place the switch in "off" and wait 5 minutes" and try again.

The red light and switch worked the same way with the Suburban WH we had in the 2003 5er, except ISTR there was something about 3 tries, I forget details of that 3 tries thing.

1991 and a 6E are 19-20 yr versions

Little changes were made with each new version.
Then in 2004 they went to a DC Control for Electric/Gas Version
(10E/6 gal and a 4E/10 gal)

Now for 2020 they have a NEW 6gal/9gal XT Model that has the Electric Element access in outside compartment.

Time marches on...new versions...new control schemes

[Teleman]

enblethen wrote:
It is a good idea to put some electrical de-oxidation grease on the four wire connector. I use it on most of the electrical connections that are subject to moisture.

Will do. Thanks for the tip.

[BFL13]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Teleman wrote:
Cleaned the multipin connector on the board and it fired right up. Indicator light still isn't working but a minor issue I'll address later.

Light on On/Off Switch is a FAULT Light---should come on when:
*Propane Flame Fails to light/fails to prove it lit
*ECO has tripped (failure of normal temp T-stat)

Reset Fault Light...turn switch Off then back ON

It seems odd to me that Atwood would change how that on/off switch works with the red light. Must be confusing where it does one thing with some models and another thing with other models.

I have the Direct Ignition GH6-6E except with a newer control board and flame sensor set-up. The OEM red light works the same though. It comes on as soon as you turn the switch to "on" and it goes out when the heater starts (when you hear it come on) After that, if there is trouble and it does not stay lit the red light comes back on. (now acting as the fault light)

However the manual's schematic calls it the "Non-Ignition Light", but then says in the instructions for starting after you turn the switch to "on", "If the switch light stays on longer than 15 seconds, place the switch in "off" and wait 5 minutes" and try again.

The red light and switch worked the same way with the Suburban WH we had in the 2003 5er, except ISTR there was something about 3 tries, I forget details of that 3 tries thing.

[enblethen]

It is a good idea to put some electrical de-oxidation grease on the four wire connector. I use it on most of the electrical connections that are subject to moisture.

[Teleman]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Teleman wrote:
Cleaned the multipin connector on the board and it fired right up. Indicator light still isn't working but a minor issue I'll address later.

Light on On/Off Switch is a FAULT Light---should come on when:
*Propane Flame Fails to light/fails to prove it lit
*ECO has tripped (failure of normal temp T-stat)

Reset Fault Light...turn switch Off then back ON

Got it! I was used to the old rocker switch-light that lit when turned on and went off when the thermostat turn off the gas. Water got hot so I'm good! Thanks!

[Old-Biscuit]

Teleman wrote:
Cleaned the multipin connector on the board and it fired right up. Indicator light still isn't working but a minor issue I'll address later.

Light on On/Off Switch is a FAULT Light---should come on when:
*Propane Flame Fails to light/fails to prove it lit
*ECO has tripped (failure of normal temp T-stat)

Reset Fault Light...turn switch Off then back ON

[rk911]

Teleman wrote:

rk911 wrote:

Teleman wrote:

Teleman wrote:

rk911 wrote:
to clarify...is your issue the light or there is no hot water? are you heating the water with LP or electric? LP tank empty? other 120vac appliances working?

No ignition. Plenty of propane. It's as if the switch itself is bad, though that may not be the case, but if the switch was bad the symptoms would be the same.

Sorry. It's an Atwood. I'm using it with LP.

LP only model or LP/Electric?

LP/Electric. Using it in LP mode.

ok, good. on our atwood the light only comes on when ignition has not taken place. turn on your WH, wait 10-15 min and check water from a sink. you should feel it gettjng warm. after another 15-min it should be hot.

motor aid means that engine coolant is routed past the hot water tank when driving. that heats the water in the tank so no need to run the LP or electric when driving.

[Teleman]

Cleaned the multipin connector on the board and it fired right up. Indicator light still isn't working but a minor issue I'll address later.

[Old-Biscuit]

OP....
With a 2000 Vintage I suspect you have an Atwood GCH10A-3E model


1ST...need to verify that you have 12VDC to the GAS On/Off Switch
2nd...need to verify that you have 12VDC from Gas On/Off Switch to the 'thermal fuse' (in the clear tube) via Brown wire
3rd....need to verify you have 12VDC from thermal fuse to/thru t-stat and back to circuit board via other Brown wire

If thermal fuse is BLOWN...no DC to circuit board
If blown...blow back from combustion chamber due to dirty orifice, burner, chamber. Blows when exposed to flame at 190*F

IF you have 12VDC thru all the above components to circuit board...then circuit board is Bad

Suspect 'thermal fuse' has blown

[Teleman]

Bobbo wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
Specs for that RV say only that it is a "10 gal gas/electric w Motor Aid"
So model of the Atwood still needed. (what is motor aid?)

My previous Winnebago Class C had a functioning "motor aid" water heater. Just like a radiator hose runs to your vehicle heater to heat the vehicle in cold weather, a radiator hose runs to a pipe running through your water heater. It heats the water in your water heater while you drive so that when you park, you already have hot water.

I should hear the burner ignite. On my old coach there was a lighted rocker switch that when activated would light and I'd hear the whoosh of the burner lighting from inside.