Water pump not working

Apparently in las vegas you cant buy just a pressure switch. I ended up just getting a whole new pump. It seem to be working.
BUT
I have black slimy algae in my freshwater tank, it keeps clogging up my inline filter and stops the water flow.
See new topic Removing freshwater tank.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

I've had 3 Shurflo or however you spell them and hate them. Id consider the the Artis. Solved my problems and it pumps great
Artis

If you open a faucet and the water isn't coming out when you are trying to run the pump, and you have power to the red wire but not the pink, sounds like the diaphragm has gone which determines the pressure to operate the pump. You can purchase a new one or replace the pump.

too little, too late

Just got a chance to look at it and apparently I did not have the city water turned on all the way but now that is working great the pump will run without the pressures switch connected

how do I test to see if its the pressure switch or not I assume it is the pressure switch went bad

Old-Biscuit wrote:

bshpilot wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You can buy a brand new Shurflo Pump #4008 (3 gpm/55 psi) for $65 LINK

I guess it depends on the pump....personally i like a little more flow than that.

Well then, how's 4 gpm/55 psi for $142 LINK

Point is you can replace a pump for a few dollars more than rebuilding them.........and you don't have to spend $200+ to do so. Just have to shop around.

or more likely (in an RV) a 5.7GPM / 65 PSI (5900 series) for $190+

the point is don't replace your (good) pump w/ a lower pressure/flow pump just to save a few bucks...especially when you can rebuild it for less.

bshpilot wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You can buy a brand new Shurflo Pump #4008 (3 gpm/55 psi) for $65 LINK

I guess it depends on the pump....personally i like a little more flow than that.

Well then, how's 4 gpm/55 psi for $142 LINK

Point is you can replace a pump for a few dollars more than rebuilding them.........and you don't have to spend $200+ to do so. Just have to shop around.

If the city water is just "trickling" then it sounds like a shut valve somewhere. Look around inside where the water heater is mounted. Mine is in a closet, you have to remove the bottom panel to get to the valves.

I'm on my way from Tahoe to Mammoth Lakes on Saturday, if you are near 395 I might be able to stop and help. PM me.

I'll go along with All58Parks, either there is a valve or a plugged line somewhere. I'd start by disconnecting the output line from the pump and run the pump. If the problem continues, remove the pump and disassemble the pressure switch section. If you don't find a blockage after removing the switch, replace the pressure switch assembly. They are available on line I'm sure or from an RV or Marine Store.

If the problem disappears after removing the output line, then close the valve from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the system and pressurize the system with your water hose attached to the city water inlet and check all the fixtures.

I know that visually following the lines is hard but we all have that problem, you just need to be persistent and try. Almost all systems have a series of valves to shut off the water or by pass the WH and or the pump and isolate the fixtures. I wish I was at home where my system drawings are that show typical configurations, not locations(no one can show all of those)but configurations. Sometimes that helps make the job easier just knowing how things are configured.

The system is very simple it's the confined spaces we have to work in that makes things difficult. Good luck and let us know what you find.