What gauge wire from batteries to inverter
I am going to install an inverter in my trailer and am curious about what gauge wire I need to run from the batteries. To be honest I really don't have an application or device I want to run off it. I...
Forum Discussion
As one can see from answers on this thread, to be a "well though out" electrical package, one must consider many things. No point in going too large on one component and having another severely limit usage.
So, to really get "the best for my application" answers:
What is battery bank size (amp-hrs @ 12 VDC)
What is the largest load (amps @ 120 VAC) that you want to run off the inverter AND, for how long.
Location of components-- how far from battery bank to inverter (shorter distance is better, but not in the same compartment). Remember that for wire gauge, the electrons travel "round trip" so if located 10' from the battery that is 20' of wire.
How "idiot-proof" do you need it. Said another way, one of the simplest wiring solutions is to power the whole 120 VAC panel through the inverter (inverter with built-in transfer switch). BUT (read that big BUT)if someone may walk in and turn the the roof A/C when shore power is off or could go off, you would have a big issue (quickly discharge the battery bank and/or overload the inverter). The "idiot-proof" thing to do is remove those circuits you want to be able to power from the inverter (both hots and neutrals) and move them to a sub-panel supplied by the inverter. Then hot from main panel to inverter for when on shore power or generator.
Again, look at the whole package before making a decision. No point in a huge inverter with only a small battery bank!
So, to really get "the best for my application" answers:
What is battery bank size (amp-hrs @ 12 VDC)
What is the largest load (amps @ 120 VAC) that you want to run off the inverter AND, for how long.
Location of components-- how far from battery bank to inverter (shorter distance is better, but not in the same compartment). Remember that for wire gauge, the electrons travel "round trip" so if located 10' from the battery that is 20' of wire.
How "idiot-proof" do you need it. Said another way, one of the simplest wiring solutions is to power the whole 120 VAC panel through the inverter (inverter with built-in transfer switch). BUT (read that big BUT)if someone may walk in and turn the the roof A/C when shore power is off or could go off, you would have a big issue (quickly discharge the battery bank and/or overload the inverter). The "idiot-proof" thing to do is remove those circuits you want to be able to power from the inverter (both hots and neutrals) and move them to a sub-panel supplied by the inverter. Then hot from main panel to inverter for when on shore power or generator.
Again, look at the whole package before making a decision. No point in a huge inverter with only a small battery bank!
