โJul-22-2018 08:14 AM
โJul-26-2018 08:08 PM
โJul-26-2018 07:30 PM
fj12ryder wrote:CarnationSailor wrote:Well, if they're trying to get that past you it would make you wonder how much other stuff they also made up. Total BS.
myredracer:
LS said it was prudent to replace the bearings with the hubs because the old bearings and the old hubs would have had mating wear grooves, and that the new hub would have none; hence, the old bearings wouldn't fit well with a non-grooved hub. Anybody know if this is true?
Wheel bearings have an outer and an inner race, the rollers turn against those surfaces. The hub only holds the outer race in place.
โJul-26-2018 04:30 PM
CarnationSailor wrote:Well, if they're trying to get that past you it would make you wonder how much other stuff they also made up. Total BS.
myredracer:
LS said it was prudent to replace the bearings with the hubs because the old bearings and the old hubs would have had mating wear grooves, and that the new hub would have none; hence, the old bearings wouldn't fit well with a non-grooved hub. Anybody know if this is true?
โJul-26-2018 03:28 PM
โJul-26-2018 03:13 PM
โJul-26-2018 01:17 PM
myredracer wrote:
... It does sound like the b/c is set too high and over-braking that you wouldn't notice.... :R
โJul-26-2018 09:50 AM
โJul-25-2018 07:28 PM
marininn wrote:
Way over priced. Yes, find a new dealer. Find a mechanic not associated with an RV place or RV anything.
Any low level mechanic should be able to do trailer brakes, they are way simple.
Brakes should last a long time. It all depends how much power you are using on them, sound like you said you use a small amount of power.
you can let vehicle do most of the braking, or split it where the trailer brakes just enough to stop its own weight, or let trailer do most of the braking. At some point the trailer wheels will lock up when braking if they are giving too much power.
Ideal is to let trailer stop its own weight, so stopping the vehicle feels the same with or without the trailer. Many drivers set the brakes so the trailer does some of the braking for itself, but not all. This will make trailer brakes last longer.
On the freeway or high speeds set the trailer to brake enough to stop its weight or more since braking will likely be emergency/panic. Around town at lower speeds reduce the trailer brake power. When maneuvering in the campground or parking area you can turn the brakes off.
โJul-25-2018 06:30 PM
โJul-25-2018 06:24 PM
โJul-22-2018 05:49 PM
โJul-22-2018 05:16 PM
fj12ryder wrote:
Man, that would stink having some $10/hour grunt pulling wheels, checking brakes, and then putting it all back together correctly, getting the brake drag correct, and the bearing preload set right.
We have auto inspections in Missouri, but thankfully no non-commercial trailer inspections.
Just out of curiosity, what do they charge for an inspection?
โJul-22-2018 05:10 PM
fj12ryder wrote:
Just out of curiosity, what do they charge for an inspection?
โJul-22-2018 05:03 PM
CarnationSailor wrote:
How many miles should I expect to get on a set of brakes given that they are lightly used?
And, how often do most people check for brake wear?