What's the fridge flame supposed to look like ?

[SCVJeff]

Here's mine:


I don't think it should look like this. I haven't had it out yet but the visible top is clean and I just gave it a compressor blowout with no improvement.

[NinerBikes]

If it's backfiring, you are not getting clean laminar flow and mixing of the air and propane from the orfice, the air bleed mixing ports and then flowing out the openings where it is supposed to burn. Something is causing raw propane to flow backwards to the point of ignition near the igniter, creating the popping sounds when it all burns off, inside the tube.

I wonder if you got a bum part for the new one? Or an alignment issue?

Maybe a burr on the inside, can you run a flex ball hone inside to knock off any burrs near the gas vents where the gas starts burning? Poor or worn press dies not cleanly cutting the vents and leaving burrs?

[Gjac]

SCVJeff wrote:
Gjac: I've had the same problem getting fine debris, in my case likely salt, just inside the burner and that will cause the flame to yellow up, AND pre-detonate the LP in the chamber. That causes it to backfire. The first time that happened I cleaned and scraped, blew it out, and never did get it where I wanted it to be. Its amazing the tolerances on these things. I might build a little mix slider, but at sea level shouldn't have to.

Chris: I'll look at that too, but to be clearer, the flame isn't going out above the burner, its igniting within it and I observe flame coming out the 4 air vents. When that happens there is no reignation spark because the flame never went out. Strange eh?

Jeff before you build a slider just try a flat head screw driver and cover the first slot to see if the flicker goes away. By moving the blade of the screwdriver over the slots you are essentially creating a slider. If it stops the flicker/backfire the problem is probably the burner assuming the orifice is good and pressure. Just to further clarify when I was having this problem when mine would backfire it would come out those holes, only when it backfired not all the time.

[SCVJeff]

Gjac: I've had the same problem getting fine debris, in my case likely salt, just inside the burner and that will cause the flame to yellow up, AND pre-detonate the LP in the chamber. That causes it to backfire. The first time that happened I cleaned and scraped, blew it out, and never did get it where I wanted it to be. Its amazing the tolerances on these things. I might build a little mix slider, but at sea level shouldn't have to.

Chris: I'll look at that too, but to be clearer, the flame isn't going out above the burner, its igniting within it and I observe flame coming out the 4 air vents. When that happens there is no reignation spark because the flame never went out. Strange eh?

[Chris_Bryant]

I would check electrode alignment. Should be centered on burner, 3/16" gap.

[Gjac]

SCVJeff wrote:
I'm getting an occasional backfire out of it. I guess the next step is to blow it out again and maybe find a WC" meter to check pressures

Is this a new burner tube or did you clean it with a wire wheel and reinstall it? That occasional flicker or backfire as you describe sounds like a problem of the air to propane ratio being off. If it is still your old burner and it still flickers after you blow it out again and check the pressure and it is good reread my first post and Wizards post.

[SCVJeff]

I think I'll look at regulator pressure too because there is still a little yellow left. It's possible the jet is wonky. I had a burner once that would backfire like this that had a little slag internally that would occasionally detonate in the chamber when it superheated.

And No, there is no adjustment on this burner

[time2roll]

I will let CloudDriver answer to that.

Otherwise the only adjustment is to verify no restrictions. Jet could also have issues. I was just pointing where to look.
I would just replace if I am removing it anyway. Maybe on the road I would attempt to clean it.

[John_Joey]

jetcare wrote:

CloudDriver wrote:
Adjust the air inlet - needs more air for the normal blue flame.

And just where is this air inlet adjustment?

smkettner wrote:

John&Joey wrote:

^^^ very near the propane jet.

Do you have a picture you could post?
Or a link to a manual?

:E

I'm sure he's thinking about the hot water heater, and not the fridge. :W

The holes are right there next to the jet.

Plenty more on google images

Glad to see that nice blue flame 🙂

I think what was in question is the air adjustment part, that the up arrows were pointing too. That can be adjusted on a HWH, not so much on a fridge, as your picture even shows.

[SCVJeff]

I'm getting an occasional backfire out of it. I guess the next step is to blow it out again and maybe find a WC" meter to check pressures

[time2roll]

John&Joey wrote:

^^^ very near the propane jet.

Do you have a picture you could post?
Or a link to a manual?

:E

I'm sure he's thinking about the hot water heater, and not the fridge. :W

The holes are right there next to the jet.

Plenty more on google images

Glad to see that nice blue flame 🙂

[John_Joey]

Looks like a new burner tub. 🙂

I'm in a very high salt area also. One of the things I've learnt is to watch the shaft that runs the fan on the AC unit. Some are nice and thick while others not so much. Salt air will rust that shaft down to the size of pencil lead before it breaks. A coat of never seize goes a long way in prevention.

[NinerBikes]

Ready for another beach trip now. Salt air is corrosive.

[SCVJeff]

WELL THIS IS BETTER....



Anii-seize on the joints, although salt corrosion is pretty nasty stuff. I think I'll swedge me up another flare tube and keep it handy for next time.

[John_Joey]

Chris Bryant wrote:
I always apply never seize to the outside if the aluminum tubing on those when installing. I also often remove the burner and tubing, if the valve end will break free.

Chris, a few years back you put out an excellent article on fridge maintenance. I tried to find it both with Google and this forum's search function to no avail.

Any hints on where that article may be hiding if it's still out there.

[Chris_Bryant]

I always apply never seize to the outside if the aluminum tubing on those when installing. I also often remove the burner and tubing, if the valve end will break free.