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What you need to know if you buy a macerator

mikestock
Explorer
Explorer
What you need to keep in mind is that the 3" dump hose and connections must be in tip-top shape. Your standard dump hose usually sees only negative pressure as the outlet is normally below below the rv outlet. Your inlet to the macerator and 3/4" hose is not fast enough to create a negative pressure. Your 3" entry hose may see a significant positive pressure, depending on how full the tank is.

I would test out the hookup with a gray water tank outlet before going live with the bad stuff. I learned this the hard way but managed to minimize the damage and shut the valve quickly. It is still wise to never walk away while it is macerating. S... happens at any time.
12 REPLIES 12

ReneeG
Explorer
Explorer
We have a Noco Boost 2000 to power our macerator. We have that one as a charger for our diesel truck in case we need it when camping in freezing temps.
2011 Bighorn 3055RL, 2011 F350 DRW 6.7L 4x4 Diesel Lariat and Hensley TrailerSaver BD3, 1992 Jeep ZJ and 1978 Coleman Concord Pop-Up for remote camping
Dave & Renee plus (Champ, Molly, Paris, Missy, and Maggie in spirit), Mica, Mabel, and Melton

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
NOTE I have a portable that ... Well.

It hooks directly to the RV. no hose between it and the RV just a short hard clear "extension" so no leakage issues.

Works well when I use it.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
2oldman wrote:
And as the pic above shows, connect it to a small battery. Macs draw a lot of power and get hot. My wires are barely a foot long.

My wires are 30 feet long so I can use them to power not only the macerator, but a 12v air compressor I set by the wheels. However, it is 10g wire.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

wannavolunteerF
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
And as the pic above shows, connect it to a small battery. Macs draw a lot of power and get hot. My wires are barely a foot long.


Suggestions on battery? I will only use macerator intermittently when I am staying on family farm.
2015 FR Georgetown 378TS

mikestock
Explorer
Explorer
I normally dump the black tank first. The way my rv is set up I can raise the outlet hose to a level above the tank levels, then open both valves to allow my gray water to back flush into the black tank. Then close the gray water valve and dump the black again. After this, I finish by draining the gray tank. I purposely try to end my stay with a lot of water in the gray tank to help accomplish this.

I hope this is clear enough to understand. This is an easy way to get a little extra flush from the black tank. This actually has nothing to do with a macerator. I have done this for years. Seems to help when I don't have the time to hook up a flush hose or if I have people behind me waiting to dump.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
My Macerator will not connect directly to the RV. I need a 5" extension to get below the bay then the macerator connects.
I use a clear plastic connection so I can see when the tank is empty on the rare occasion I use my portable Macerator.

ONE WORD OF CAUTION
The pump sufferes from "Sticksion" that is once it has been used if it sits for any period of time the impellers stick and the thing wont' run (Will pop the fuse in the handle) the solution is to look at the non-pump end of the motor. shaft has a slot in it take a flat tool (quarter works, or key, screwdriver or a flat metal bar) and give it a twist to break it free. then hook up and "go".
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
And as the pic above shows, connect it to a small battery. Macs draw a lot of power and get hot. My wires are barely a foot long.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

way2roll
Navigator II
Navigator II
We had a built in Macerator on a previous MH and frankly I miss it. It had pretty heavy duty hose and was hard wired. The downside to a permanently installed macerator is that despite leaving the valve open, nothing happens unless you activate the pump. So I installed a remote control with a key fob so I could dump remotely. If I was in the camper and on a extended stay, I would remain hooked up and dump the tanks from inside the RV if I noticed they were full. The other advantage was that my septic clean out at the house was about 50' away from the driveway and it allowed me to clean and flush my tanks in the RV at home without driving through the grass.

Jeff - 2023 FR Sunseeker 2400B MBS

I connect my Sanicon Turboo 300 directly to the outlet pipe on the RV - -
Me-Her-the kids
2020 Ford F350 SD 6.7
2020 Redwood 3991RD Garnet

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
NRALIFR wrote:
If possible, connect the macerator directly to the RV sewage pipe without a flexible hose.

:):)


I was about to say the same.
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

NRALIFR
Explorer
Explorer
If possible, connect the macerator directly to the RV sewage pipe without a flexible hose.

:):)
2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450 โ€˜Scuse me while I whinge.
And for all you Scooby-Doo and Yosemite Sam typesโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ..Letโ€™s Go Brandon!!!

ReneeG
Explorer
Explorer
Agree. We have a heavy duty reinforced, but still stay while it is running. We also use a dedicated "wash out" hose for it.
2011 Bighorn 3055RL, 2011 F350 DRW 6.7L 4x4 Diesel Lariat and Hensley TrailerSaver BD3, 1992 Jeep ZJ and 1978 Coleman Concord Pop-Up for remote camping
Dave & Renee plus (Champ, Molly, Paris, Missy, and Maggie in spirit), Mica, Mabel, and Melton