Why is there so much confusion?

[suprz]

I have the reg Bargman taillights on my class C motorhome (2006 Ford E450). There are 2 red that are running/brake/turn, and one reverse light (all in one unit) i just want to upgrade to the LED replacement parts from Bargman which is a simple plug in sealed unit for each light. The problem is i cant get a straight answer if these will cause a "hyperflash" or any other issue on my coach

[pnichols]

I like to keep things simple as possible and - since they're not draining the coach batteries at all when camped - I just keep replacing the stock outside chassis incandescent bulbs every 4-5 years when one stops working.

Everything new is not "good", but everything new requires effort/money ... that usually detracts from life's really important activities ... and probably makes me poorer and some person hiding in the background richer.

[JaxDad]

Ralph Cramden wrote:
When my wife started menopause she became afflicted with those hyperflashes....she turned hyper at almost every word I said or at every answer to a question. It was like Jekyll and Hyde for awhile.

NO disrespect implied here, but this one is just too good to leave alone.



So did she get any brighter like the LED's would have been?

I mean you have an RV so obviously you're not staying at Holiday Inn Express's either so .......


:B

[theoldwizard1]

DutchmenSport wrote:
It's a conspiracy you know, to get your money. They market the product to sound like it's something you absolutely MUST have, get you hooked, and then bleed your pocket book.

Worse, they change the "code books" to require it !

While I do think that GFCI outlets are a good thing, but now the National Electrical Code (NEC) require "tamper resistant" outlets and "arc fault" outlets.

I raised to kids, have 5 grandkids. We put those plastic safety caps in the plugs that the kids might get to. Even myself who loved to play with wires and batteries as a kid, never got the 120VAC ZAP !

I have never heard of a residential fire from an "arc fault". Maybe one or two melted outlets at worst.

[Boon_Docker]

Ralph Cramden wrote:
When my wife started menopause she became afflicted with those hyperflashes....she turned hyper at almost every word I said or at every answer to a question. It was like Jekyll and Hyde for awhile.

And then you installed an electronic flash unit and everything was OK after that. :B

[Ralph_Cramden]

When my wife started menopause she became afflicted with those hyperflashes....she turned hyper at almost every word I said or at every answer to a question. It was like Jekyll and Hyde for awhile.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

If you have hyperflash from LED tail turn signal bulbs, you have different choices depending on what vehicle you have.

If you have a flasher relay you can upgrade to an LED compatible one or HD version.
If like on my 13 Tahoe, it is controlled by the BCM (body control module) then you have to either get inline resistors for the turn signal bulb socket wiring or get the BCM custom reprogrammed.

[wa8yxm]

The reason you can not get a "Straight answer" is because it an not be predicted

BUT if it does. they make a fix (Resistor) Kind of defeats the power saving feature but LED's have other features.

DID not on my Workhorse.. but your rig may be different and it is impossible to say till you try it. Also a HD flasher may cure hyper-flash.

[DutchmenSport]

Why is there so much confusion? Because the manufacturers are deliberately creating products that cannot be serviced by the average Joe Citizen any more. For every home grow Joe Citizen home grown garage mechanic is one less opportunity for the manufacture to make a buck on service calls. It's a conspiracy you know, to get your money. They market the product to sound like it's something you absolutely MUST have, get you hooked, and then bleed your pocket book.

[theoldwizard1]

They do sell special LED compatible flasher relays.

Just make sure to get a true electronic flasher and not one that just has a resistor built in, which defeats the whole purpose of switching the tail lights to LED.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I am a Neanderthal. I trust nothing. Until I changed (toad) to 100% LED's I would give the vehicle a Monday morning walk-around with flasher and tail lights energized. Then a routine springtime bulb turnaround including third brake light. Rationale? Someone bashing into me because a front or rear burnout caused a no flash. Every time the OEM flasher seemed to indicate a burned out bulb it was during the first 10% of a long commute.

CORRECT LED lamps plus a rather pricey Sure Power burnout proof flasher solved that problem. But I still perform my Monday morning walk-arounds.

Quicksilver has 24-volt lighting so it uses much more reliable (1157-style 24-volt bulbs) Since I no longer drive after sundown the headlight issue is moot. The bus utilizes a motorized flasher. It has four tail/stop lights but the rear alternating flashing lights were welded and finished over.

If you need resistors, research their value meaning specifications then buy metal aluminum heatsinked resistors on eBay. One tenth the cost and ten thousand percent better quality than what is sold in kits.

BUT

BCM Body control modules on brand new vehicles makes choosing aftermarket lamps more critical. Research before you buy or modify.

[RedRollingRoadb]

I didn't have any problem when I installed them on my 2007 E-450.

[pauldub]

I installed the Bargman LEDs on my '03 E-450 and had to change the flasher for them to work right.

[enblethen]

Careful about the front light changing to LED. If the chassis has lamp outage, you may need to install resistors to keep the system from saying you have lamp out.
This would happen with clearance (parking) lamps as well as turn signals.
I had to go back to conventional in front as the ballast resistors used power and got very not warm but hot!

[ItsyRV]

As already mentioned, the "hyperflash" is caused when the draw of the LED lights are so low it causes your vehicle to think the bulb is out. However, this is a case of may or may not since you're only changing the rears. The fronts and sides may (emphasis on may) still pull enough to avoid the problem. But, if planning to replace them all with LEDs, might as well also change the flasher to an electronic version now so you don't have to deal with it as you change out the bulbs to LEDs.