Window Repair

[marpel]

Due to a leak in the window of the entry door, I removed the window today (standard two part plastic frame, sandwiching a single pane piece of glass) to clean things out and replace the sealant/gasket.

The frames have two seals, one which seals between the frame and door panel, the other seals between the two frames where they butt up against each other.

The problem is identifying the seal material. They appear to be different material and due to age and deterioration, it is hard to tell exactly what they are. The outer seal (frame/door) seems to be an actual gasket of some sort (about 1/4 " wide and very sticky), while the inner (frame/frame) reminds me of plumbers putty.

Has anyone removed and repaired these parts and is able to offer comments on the sealant/gasket material used? And can they be purchased at a DIY store or are they particular to trailers?

Thanks,

Marv

[JBarca]

For the future, I researched this and came up with Parbond by Parr Technologies. The Air Stream folks use this on their front windows, or at least they did a few years ago when I needed to change out a leaking door window. This will flow and seal in the small channels between the glass, plastic trim, and fiberglass door surface. It comes in clear, so no issues with the color match. It does not harden and stays flexible.

I bought mine at the time from PPL Motorhomes in TX. They are out of stock right now, but this place on Amazon is selling it. With inflation, the cost is double what I paid in 2019.
https://www.amazon.com/Par-Bond-Sealant-Clear-Parr/dp/B007HRX62S

Here it is on the PPL site, you pay the freight here. https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/maintenance-hardware/rv-roofs-epdm-rubber-roof-repairs/sealants-...

I tried to find it directly on the Parr website, but I can't find the right URL for them. I know Edge Adhesives bought them in 2012, but I am unsure if Edge is now selling under their website.

The Parbond is good stuff.

John

[30sweeds]

That butyl tape is what failed in the first place and it will eventually fail again.It likes to shrink and pull in on the corners. To fix it permanently,I use 3M Window Weld in a tube.It can be messy if not careful but it will never leak again.Roughly half of the windows in mine leaked eventually and it was obvious the OEM butyl tape was the culprit.

[marpel]

thought I would give a quick update, in the event someone else may be doing this same repair in the future.

Initially, as noted above, I visited an RV place and bought a set of window frames (apparently a standard size used by a lot of manufacturers) which had no accompanying sealant/gasket. And as further explained, things went a bit south and I wasted a roll of butyl tape. Also spread silicone on the inner track, which prevented me from returning the frames (see later).

Took a chance and visited a second RV parts place (farther distance from home). Funny enough, found the same set of frames WITH the sealant material (small bead of foam-like sticky stuff) already attached, exactly the same product which had been on the old set I removed. Unfortunately, because I laid a bead of silicone to the first set, I could not return them and purchase this set.

So, the moral of the story, there are window replacement frames available out there with sealant already affixed, which makes the whole job way easier.

Not sure why the first place did not have them, nor did they know about their existence. I even took the old frame in, with some of the old sealant still on, and showed the guy who "helped" me.

[marpel]

So I went into an RV parts dept today and bought the two plastic window frames (found some cracking in the old ones) and was helped by a, seemingly, knowledgeable guy.

Asked him what is used for the seals and he directed me to butyl tape (for the outside of the frame(s) between the door and frames) and some silicone for the interior of the frames (to seal the actual glass). The tape was about 3/4 in wide, but he said to just apply and trim the excess.

Took the items home and spent the next couple hours cleaning the old stuff off the door, applying the tape (per the instruction sheet that accompanied the frames) and silicone. Then fiddled quite some time getting the frames in the door, without the frames or glass falling out (solo job, would have been much better with a second pair of hands).

And, found out it all would not fit because the butyl tape was too thick and left way too big a space between the interior frame and glass, and there was absolutely no way to compress it enough to get the frames to join to insert the screws.

By the time I pulled it all apart (everything was sticking together from trying to put it together), the silicone was a mess and the tape was now a big ball of sticky, so had to throw it out. So much for the employees advice.

[CapnCampn]

The plumber's putty is likely the butyl rubber tape sold at RV stores, the sticky gasket stuff is probably Glazing Tape, available at glass stores. Or Amazon.

CC

[marpel]

QCMan,

Thanks for the reply. I have no experience with butyl rubber tape, and do not understand your comment "Do not be overly generous....". I understand the concern about stripping the screw holes.

The stuff that I removed is like a two sided tape, about 1/4 wide but fairly thin (maybe a 1/16 of an inch thick, but hard to tell if that is the-now compressed thickness).

Do you mean do not apply multiple layers, or....? I presume this tape is available in different thicknesses?

Marv

[QCMan]

Use butyl rubber tape and peel off whatever oozes out. Do not be overly generous about applying it as too much will add enough pressure while trying to squeeze the sides tight to strip the screw holes.