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Yamaha Generator question

EnzoColorado
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm brand new to using generators.

A few months ago I bought a new Yamaha EF2000ISV2 generator. When I hooked it up to my travel trailer and try to run the microwave, the light in the microwave flickers and I can hear the sound from the microwave is lower and fluctuate compared to when connected to a outlet. I tried both the smart throttle setting and the full setting, both result in the same thing. I also noticed when the microwave is on, the generator's motor's pitch and frequency seems to be lower. The microwave also doesn't seem to heat up food much. Is there something wrong with the generator or am I not using it correctly? n
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35 REPLIES 35

road-runner
Explorer III
Explorer III
gatorcq wrote:
MSW Vs PSW is the issue.
If I can redefine the "M" to mean mangled, I'll agree. My PD9160 will not supply its full power when powered by the kinda-sorta sine wave from the Onan microquiet. Driven by an eu2000i, it meets the specs.
2009 Fleetwood Icon

gatorcq
Explorer
Explorer
MSW Vs PSW is the issue.
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BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here are some PD specs that show 105-130v. Good to see them showing 11.4 amps input required for a 60 amper!

https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/power-centers/inteli-power-4000-series/#specifications
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

road-runner
Explorer III
Explorer III
I only have a single 9610 to gather data from and am taking the risk of making a general statement from it. Posts over the years from other members confirm what I see at a circumstantial evidence level. The spec I see on the PD web page is "Input voltage tolerance", not "Minimum voltage for full output" or something similar. Maybe it's stated elsewhere that I haven't seen. What I've seen for myself is that the 9160 needs a 120 volt or higher sine wave to achieve its rated output. Like a conventional microwave oven, it appears to rely mostly on the peak voltage of the input power. If the sine wave is below 120 volts RMS, or the waveform is flattened as happens with many conventional generators, the peak input voltage is too low for maximum DC output. This is opposite of a WFCO converter that (when it's working) provides its full DC output when driven by lower voltages and/or lousy waveforms.
2009 Fleetwood Icon

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Interesting. The PD converters, same as the others, do need about 105v AC minimum to do their amps according to their specs. They will still do some amps at voltages a bit below that.

What that "105v" means for how the converter would "see" the AC with different types of generators is all new to me, but would be good to know since lots of RVs have those non-inverter gens.

Xantrex used to warn about running their chargers on some gens where it was like they had MSW and wouldn't run right.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

road-runner
Explorer III
Explorer III
There is the possibility of running the 9180 with a 1000 watt generator if it's not an inverter generator. If the generator's voltage regulator is one that leads to an absurd waveform with a bad PF load, the PD's power draw will go way down. If the voltage regulator will let the output voltage sag significantly, the PD's power draw will go way down. This combination will find a balance point to operate continuously at a reduced convert output. It's the one advantage I can think of for PD converters needing a 120 volt good sine wave to achieve their spec'd output.
2009 Fleetwood Icon

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
wa8yxm wrote:
One thing I mention When my Rig was new I sometimes charged batteries using a Generac 1000. this is a true 1000 watt continous device (at least mine was) and it powered my Progressive Dynamics 9180 with wizard and dead house batteries.. You even had enough left over to power a night light... (not much more than that) converter is rated 1100 watts at full load.
Now once the batteries fill up.. Well that genny is not good for much but then I could watch TV if I wished. not much more with just 1KW.
2KW i could nuke lunch.


Apparently it does no good to correct your silly story each time you repeat it over the years, but anyway here we go again! 😞

First the 9180 is rated at 1300w and it needs a 20a circuit--see the specs here:

https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/power-converters/pd9100-series-rv-power-converters/pd9180a-80-amp-...

And they are talking about 13.6 volts, not the 14.4 volts needed to charge the battery bank. Plus they don't mention the 0.7 PF it has, which makes that 1300w into 1857VA.

You say you got 1857VA from your 1000w gen? Ha! (to say the least)

Now let's go through what really happens with the 9180 doing 80 amps when battery reaches 14.4v just before amps taper and demand on the gen eases off.

Output- 14.4 x 80 = 1152w
Efficiency est 85% (specs say > 80) so input 1152/85 = 1355w
PF is 0.7 with PDs (and others) so 1355/7 = 1936VA

Fact is you need a gen that can hold 1936VA to run that PD9180 at full blast. A Honda 2000 at sea level could do it (fisherguy said his could) for 30 minutes, but really a 2200 is needed, and it has the necessary 15/20 receptacles too.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
One thing I mention When my Rig was new I sometimes charged batteries using a Generac 1000. this is a true 1000 watt continous device (at least mine was) and it powered my Progressive Dynamics 9180 with wizard and dead house batteries.. You even had enough left over to power a night light... (not much more than that) converter is rated 1100 watts at full load.
Now once the batteries fill up.. Well that genny is not good for much but then I could watch TV if I wished. not much more with just 1KW.
2KW i could nuke lunch.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
jfak7670 wrote:
Not so long ago I bought a new Yamaha EF2000iSv2 generator. Maybe someone has already had an experience with this gen and can suggest how many appliances can I run with it?

It depends on the appliance amperage. Start with the converter, then add anything you want to run. It adds up fast. You'll never run your AC with it. You'll barely run your microwave, if the converter is not drawing anything. Your fridge is not a huge draw.

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
midnightsadie wrote:
get a bigger gen set.

Yep. That converter is drawing power. My Champion 3500 (dual fuel) has zero issues with this problem, and runs the 13500btu AC. Very quiet too....almost as quiet as my Honda 2000.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
jfak7670 wrote:
Not so long ago I bought a new Yamaha EF2000iSv2 generator. Maybe someone has already had an experience with this gen and can suggest how many appliances can I run with it?
It's not polite to hijack another's thread. Start your own.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
philh wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
jfak7670 wrote:
Not so long ago I bought a new Yamaha EF2000iSv2 generator. Maybe someone has already had an experience with this gen and can suggest how many appliances can I run with it?

About 12 or 13 amps. You have to add up the amp draw for each appliance. If the batteries are low, the converter/charger may take up most or all of that.

I have the 2000 watt Honda. It is dedicated to charging low batteries, and nothing else. Everything else is on propane. No microwave while batteries are charging. No hair dryer while batteries are charging.

turn off the breaker if you need to run an appliance?

That would work, except my whole reason for the generator is to charge the batteries. When boondocking, I plan on having NO 120v at all, except battery charging.
Bobbo and Lin
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MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
9000 ft
Your lucky it even powers the MW
That's comparable to putting 200# on your back and climbing a tall oak tree
That poor Honda is working itself to death
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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PNW_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
opnspaces wrote:
I'm curious what this thread comes up with. I get the same thing with my Honda eu2000i and the generator. I can hear the microwave running slower than normal and the interior light is dimmer as well. It doesn't matter if I switch the eco throttle off, nor does it seem to matter if I flip the breaker on the charger. I'm boondocking at the time so everything is on propane.


I noticed something similar with a borrowed Honda 2000 running my 1100watt coffee maker. I know it sounds crazy but I can hear the difference. I snagged my multimeter and checked the generator output while running my coffee maker. During startup when both heating elements and the grinder are running the generator output dropped to 103 volts.

I know that it sounds crazy but the first time my wife started the coffee maker I could plainly hear a difference in the way it sounded.

My EU3000i runs it normally.
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