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ashnic's avatar
ashnic
Explorer
Jul 31, 2013

04 Silverado tow capacity help

I have a 04 low mileage 4x4 ext cab Silverado with the 5.3L and 3.73 gears auto trans. My wife and I are considering purchasing a 08 Arubu 26rks. Dry weight of 6180 and tongue weight of 680. From what I can tell this puts me right at my max towing rating..Anyone please chime in..I need to make a decision today..and another tow vehicle is not a option. Thanks!
  • Well I brought the camper home..it pulled excellent. Braking was very good as well. Stayed around 60MPH. Temps were: 195 Engine temp and trans stayed around 170. No real issues at all. Going to try and get thru this fall then look into a used 1500HD or 2500HD.. Thanks for everyone's input.
  • ashnic wrote:
    I have a 04 low mileage 4x4 ext cab Silverado with the 5.3L and 3.73 gears auto trans. My wife and I are considering purchasing a 08 Arubu 26rks. Dry weight of 6180 and tongue weight of 680. From what I can tell this puts me right at my max towing rating..Anyone please chime in..I need to make a decision today..and another tow vehicle is not a option. Thanks!


    Suggest you first decide if you believe in the ratings or not

    If not, then do whatever, but note that any warranty might be denied
    (but 2003, so most likely no warranty) and that the OEM is off the liability
    hook based on their published ratings

    If yes, then find them and learn HOW2 figure it out. Easy simple math
    that will require actual weights of your TV, axle by axle fully loaded

    Here is the GM site with spec's for a 2004 Silverado 1500
    2014 CHEVY SILVERADO | Specifications

    Finding the GCWR is difficult, but it is out there. Basically it is
    the 'curb' + 'tow option' + 'MTWR' = GCWR "MTWR" is max tow weight rating,
    which is based on the 'curb', which I'm guess you don't own the stripper
    model

    But that isn't all there is, as the ratings are/is a system. You will
    find most folks only talk about one or a couple of those specifications
    and is our of context. Again, it is a system and the whole is what
    you need to understand in order to figure out your 'true' tow rating

    Along with your TV's actual weight, axle by axle




    Here is a quote from another thread for this forever question:

    Looking for expert advice on TV/RV size and weight

    BenK wrote:
    Welcome to the forum !

    First, note that I do not advise 'sure you can' or 'no you can not' (some times
    if it seems really over board) but provide the metrics HOW2 figure it out yourself

    Second, decide if you believe in the ratings system or not

    If not, then do whatever knowing that any warranty claim and over loaded, that
    you will have to either lie or hope they don't find out to deny warranty ***AND***
    that the OEM is off the liability hook no matter within or out of warranty period

    If yes, then read up and ask questions.

    Finally, go out and actually weigh your TV axle by axle, both empty and fully loaded
    That is the only way to know where you are in reference to it's ratings

    Here is a diagram showing the whole system and yes, ratings is a system and any
    one link in this food chain can become the weak link

    If just looking for confirmation of what you want to hear...you will get tons
    of them...aka 'sure you can'....'been over loaded for decades with no problems'...etc


    howmuchcanitow
  • You should be OK if you stay on the more flat roads which is easy in flat Ohio and Kentucky and stay away from the mountains/steep roads in Eastern Kentucky etc. Most of the Midwest and S.E. is fine for your travels as you have choices of which roads to take that avoid steep grades. It's different in the mountainous states and the East or West coast areas where choices are few and vehicles are driven like maniac controlled missiles in a hurry to go nowhere fast. Just load and drive your rig like it's a big rig as it is for your setup with a 1500 truck with a 5.3 engine but it certainly is capable and can be safely done! It's heavy and will take more distance to stop it!

    Also keep your towing below 60 mph max as it's the wind resistance which multiplies at higher speeds that requires the higher HP needed. Even more power is needed to climb "grades" at highway speeds. The rolling resistance is a constant given factor at any speed driven but the wind resistance isn't. You'll be at or n near your max tow capacity with the trailer loaded reasonably and lightly with only a smaller amount of water aboard, 2 adults in the truck with full fuel, etc. Water is heavy whether in the frest water tank or in the holding tanks or both. Why transport it anywhere but just to dump it? Carry a 2 gallon (8 lbs) refillable water container of water for drinking, cooking, etc needs and place it in the shower when traveling so even if it would leak etc, it's not going to get anything wet or soaked. Carrying more dry packaged foods and less quanities of canned goods/liquids really helps also. You can buy a 6 pack of beer, soda, or canned goods anywhere as needed. Your goal will be to think "light packing" and you'll be much happier and safer traveling!

    Can you do this? Certainly and do it safely but only you knows your driving habits, your expectations, and what you are comfortable with. Driving below 60 mph lets you drop your tranny down a gear for any grades when needed and you'll climb the grade fine but just slower than the speed limit. Make sure your tires are in good shape and fully inflated on both the truck and trailer and that you are not over any of their max load capacities. Good shocks really help also.
  • I have a very similar set up and I think that will be a little heavy for that truck. I would keep the dry weight closer to 5k.
  • The dry weight of our fifth wheel was about 300 lbs more that the "brochure" weight. The unit dry weight is listed on one of the cabinet doors.

    The "brochure" dry weight - no water in any tank (including HW heater), no propane, no options and all of the compartments empty.

    All of the trailer specs:
    http://www.rvguide.com/specs/starcraft/travel-trailer/2008/aruba-reg/268rks.html

    Your tow rating is 7400 lbs. GVWR of 7000 lbs

    Add a little water (8 lbs/gallon) , propane tanks (4.2 lbs/gallon), 2 batteries (100 lbs) and camping stuff and you will exceed the tow rating of your truck.

  • It would be just the wife and I..staying in ohio with maybe a trip once a year to Kentucky..As far as our supply's....I have no idea
  • My Jayco tips in at about 1000k less but when I load up the family, the truck bed, and the trailer I can feel that weight behind the 5.3L. Don't get me wrong, it pulls fine on flat roads but the 5.3 struggles up anything more than a moderate incline and anything over 65 mph. IMO, that trailer is too much for a 5.3L (and a 4 speed transmission, I'm assuming).
  • How much weight will be in the truch while towing? That will probably decide if the truck will be overloaded by the trailer.

    The engine should have plenty of power. Yet if the curb weight is say 6,000 and the GVWR is only 1,500 pounds more, and you put 450 pounds of passengers and a dog in the cab, then you might be overloaded when you add the hitch weight, some camping gear to the truck, and are ready to go.

    So check at your local scale. Most moving companies have one for a nominal fee of $10 or so. Also recycling centers sometimes have truck scales.

    Fred.