08 Rockwood Roo Hot Water Heater Question.....

[holliwood]

Ok guys, those of you that have Roos; I just got ours and was told you should drain the water heater during winter, so I took a look at it, but I'm not sure what plug is the drain. I don't know if the previous owner has ever done this, so with possible 20 degree weather hitting us this weekend, I figured this would be a good idea. Anyone know what plug it is? I assume its the big rusty one at the bottom middle?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7xsuymxfvv7rfn5/Photo%20Jan%2005%2C%205%2008%2044%20PM.jpg?dl=0

[Chuck_S]

Don't wait until spring to put the anode back in the tank. The bung is iron and will rust over the winter and it will be very difficult in the sprig.

-- Chuck

[holliwood]

Thanks everyone. I ended up bringing it home a couple weekends ago and going through somethings. I got the anode out with the socket. It was hard to break loose, but I got it. And, as I expected, it was eaten completely down to the little center rod. So, a couple clicks on Amazon and I had a new one 2 days later for $9 (free shipping) 🙂 Thanks AMAZON PRIME! 😉

[PenMan]

llowllms wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You have a SUBURBAN water heater

It uses an 3/4" NPT 'anode rod' that screws into the drain hole (Atwood uses the 1/2" Nylon plug)

Tank is Steel GLASS-LINED tank
DO NOT use external heat or go hammering on tank.

Drain anode rod hex head requires a 1 1/16" socket (6 point best)
Along with a 6 1/2" extension
1/2" drive and breaker bar

Try to tighten plug a bit at first then unscrew

(Water supply off....pressure relieved !!)

That's the trick all right. Relieve the pressure through the relief valve but leave all faucets closed. Once loosened it would be a good idea to stand to stand to one side while removing.

You will definitely want to stand to the side as you remove the anode rod. 😉

[llowllms]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You have a SUBURBAN water heater

It uses an 3/4" NPT 'anode rod' that screws into the drain hole (Atwood uses the 1/2" Nylon plug)

Tank is Steel GLASS-LINED tank
DO NOT use external heat or go hammering on tank.

Drain anode rod hex head requires a 1 1/16" socket (6 point best)
Along with a 6 1/2" extension
1/2" drive and breaker bar

Try to tighten plug a bit at first then unscrew

(Water supply off....pressure relieved !!)

That's the trick all right. Relieve the pressure through the relief valve but leave all faucets closed. Once loosened it would be a good idea to stand to stand to one side while removing.

[Old-Biscuit]

You have a SUBURBAN water heater

It uses an 3/4" NPT 'anode rod' that screws into the drain hole (Atwood uses the 1/2" Nylon plug)

Tank is Steel GLASS-LINED tank
DO NOT use external heat or go hammering on tank.

Drain anode rod hex head requires a 1 1/16" socket (6 point best)
Along with a 6 1/2" extension
1/2" drive and breaker bar

Try to tighten plug a bit at first then unscrew

(Water supply off....pressure relieved !!)

[enblethen]

That appears to be a Suburban water heater.
The bottom rusty thing is an anode/plug assembly.
It could be hard to remove with out proper sized socket, breaker bar and a six foot cheater.

[garyemunson]

Yup, that's the one. I'd suggest you replace it with a new nylon one like used on newer water heaters. Have fun breaking that one loose. You might want to carefully heat it with a propane torch to help break it free.