1956 F100 what can it pull?
I am building this truck with a 1972 Ford 429 motor with throttle body fuel injection and turbo charged, a C-6 transmission, 31 spline Ford 9" rear end with 325 gears and posi-traction. Totally boxed...
Forum Discussion
This thread is of interest, as that is one option for me when my Silverado
finally dies or I won't rebuild it anymore...
To the OP...the fabricator loves/hates changes.
Loves them as they are additional $$$$ each time
Hates them as the total design gets messed up and the customer too
many times complains that it has some hurky-jerky something or other
Take forced fed (turbo) and comparing your build to an Ecoboost.
Hope you understand that forced fed small displacement Ecoboost has it behave
like a big block. That 3.5L is forced fed up to or maybe over 7L-8L of
air/fuel
Surface area is one key component for good heat rejection rates and
the tiny 3.5L must have other measures to do what a much larger big
block has.
So that tiny block has the energy of a big block. Heck, even the squish
area is tiny compared to what it would be on a big block. So Ford has
done most of the things needed to make it survive a long and good life
That is still to be seen in my book...am impressed at the stuff
found to date...but it is a whole system and only one thing in the food
chain can cause havoc...
Since you are building what appears to be a street big block and force
feeding it...it will might have double or more the air/fuel in there
vs a naturally aspired ICE would. For street racing, the mass inertia
and holding capacity would/might be fine, but for hours of towing...there
needs to other measures taken/added
Am assuming your engine builder has taken all that into account and
that you plan to tow with it. Towing is in many cases tougher on a
ICE than street racing. The hours and hours at very high to WOT throttle
settings takes it's toll over time. Thermal management system(s) were
NOT that good back in those days and your builders must understand
that to make updates & new systems to manage the heat rejection system(s)
A min of a 'continuous duty' 200 amp alternator would be my choice
to supply power to all of the fans and pump motors for my heat rejection
system(s)
On that, why many are asking what the tranny is and suggestion of the
Gear Vendors, of which is in my plans for my 7.4L Suburban some day
Am assuming the automatic you are having built will have a locking TC,
if not, then another issue to be taken care of
Ditto the diff ratio, as it all factors from the ICE crank shaft all
the way to pavement.
Have your engine builder provide the cam's curve. Decide where you
wish to tow at and that will or should be a range of RPMs. I tow to
torque and boy racer to HP...ask the engine builder what that means
The final ratio will depend on which one and if both, the Gear Vendors
offers a double over drive final and a splitter between each gear
Cool project !!! am envious !!!
finally dies or I won't rebuild it anymore...
To the OP...the fabricator loves/hates changes.
Loves them as they are additional $$$$ each time
Hates them as the total design gets messed up and the customer too
many times complains that it has some hurky-jerky something or other
Take forced fed (turbo) and comparing your build to an Ecoboost.
Hope you understand that forced fed small displacement Ecoboost has it behave
like a big block. That 3.5L is forced fed up to or maybe over 7L-8L of
air/fuel
Surface area is one key component for good heat rejection rates and
the tiny 3.5L must have other measures to do what a much larger big
block has.
So that tiny block has the energy of a big block. Heck, even the squish
area is tiny compared to what it would be on a big block. So Ford has
done most of the things needed to make it survive a long and good life
That is still to be seen in my book...am impressed at the stuff
found to date...but it is a whole system and only one thing in the food
chain can cause havoc...
Since you are building what appears to be a street big block and force
feeding it...it will might have double or more the air/fuel in there
vs a naturally aspired ICE would. For street racing, the mass inertia
and holding capacity would/might be fine, but for hours of towing...there
needs to other measures taken/added
Am assuming your engine builder has taken all that into account and
that you plan to tow with it. Towing is in many cases tougher on a
ICE than street racing. The hours and hours at very high to WOT throttle
settings takes it's toll over time. Thermal management system(s) were
NOT that good back in those days and your builders must understand
that to make updates & new systems to manage the heat rejection system(s)
A min of a 'continuous duty' 200 amp alternator would be my choice
to supply power to all of the fans and pump motors for my heat rejection
system(s)
On that, why many are asking what the tranny is and suggestion of the
Gear Vendors, of which is in my plans for my 7.4L Suburban some day
Am assuming the automatic you are having built will have a locking TC,
if not, then another issue to be taken care of
Ditto the diff ratio, as it all factors from the ICE crank shaft all
the way to pavement.
Have your engine builder provide the cam's curve. Decide where you
wish to tow at and that will or should be a range of RPMs. I tow to
torque and boy racer to HP...ask the engine builder what that means
The final ratio will depend on which one and if both, the Gear Vendors
offers a double over drive final and a splitter between each gear
Cool project !!! am envious !!!
