1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 12. Waste Water
Part 12. Waste Water is pretty much self-explanatory. Is it black? Is it grey? And how is it done in this vintage resto-mod so that advantage is gained in such a limited space? These are issues both p...
Forum Discussion
During the course of putting finish coats on the front wall cap (cab-over bunk front wall) over in various other threads, today I come back here to "Waste Water" and got some work done on the galley sink DWV run.
Positioning the galley sink and the first PVC fitting, I determined a height for the P-trap and cut off the remaining tailpiece.
Then I started sizing and assembling the various parts of the drain and vent lines, planning into the whole, the general 1/4" drop per foot in the horizontal runs. Eventually I needed to drill the vent exit hole through the sidewall. This is the original vent hole size and placement, and I have the original plastic vent cover for the exterior surface.
Back on the inside, I realized a slight change up in the counter wall-cleat had placed the notch off-center, so I had to accommodate.
I made the hole just large enough for the outside diameter of the pipe, but too small for the elbow fitting to push through. That way, once the line is clamped down it makes a nice tight fit - elbow shoulder against wood paneling.
Resulting in this sort of finish.
I plan to install screening over the hole and then the vent cap after the exterior skin of course. And I'll fill the gap with spray foam or caulking as well.
On the inside, once I had the full run modular system built, I located appropriate clamp mount positions and built 1" deep blocks out of 1 by material, pre-drilled the clamp screw holes and the block mounting screw holes, and got them screwed up in place. Then I primered all the fresh wood spots.
I let that dry while I went out and mowed the lawn in between rain events that are affecting us more this year as in so many parts of the country, but fortunately for us, not so severely as in many places.
Here's the DWV under-galley modular unit, built so as to be able to remove easily in the event there is need to dis-assemble the cabinet, just as I have tried to accomplish throughout the camper.
And here it is awaiting installation.
And up in place.
Then with the sink in position.
And the trap installed.
Here we see the drawers back in and the clearances near them.
And a view from the range opening.
The pipe is set back with around 1/2" clearance from the back of the range dimension. The range says 0" clearances on the back and sides from combustibles. Even so. my concern on this particular piece is the rubber Fernco adapter on the right side, so I plan a heat shield around it prior to range insertion.
Notice the rectangular hole in the sidewall near the corner? That's where the original 15 Amp power inlet lived. If all else fails, it will become an outside outlet, because I intend to put a 30 Amp inlet into Lil' Queeny, but at a different spot because the single gang horizontal opening is too wide for today's 30 Amp inlet styles.
But - I ordered a locking gravity-feed water fill hatch that may work here. It would enlarge the hole at least downward, giving the above label screw holes in the siding a purpose ("Potable Water Only" label) and the flexible fill hose (like found on the bathroom sink tail-piece) can come in here just below the galley DWV pipe, exit the interior through a suitable sized hole in the wing, run along the inside, and protected, hidden portion of the jack under-wing metal grid, reenter the camper interior with a straight on shot to the water tank, along with a smaller diameter vent line.
Again, I'd be concerned with the range heat on that small segment of hose, but could quite readily build a heat shield for protection.
I think the main concern will be the depth dimension of the hatch itself, and whether or not there is clearance for it at the DWV pipe. We'll see next week once it arrives.
Once again, I want to thank ticki2 for introducing me to Fernco Connectors. These have made the camper's DWV very slick for my desired applications.
Oh, I also got a second coat of poly on this.
But I noticed a couple of areas that just might require aother buffing and a third, final coat of poly.
Positioning the galley sink and the first PVC fitting, I determined a height for the P-trap and cut off the remaining tailpiece.
Then I started sizing and assembling the various parts of the drain and vent lines, planning into the whole, the general 1/4" drop per foot in the horizontal runs. Eventually I needed to drill the vent exit hole through the sidewall. This is the original vent hole size and placement, and I have the original plastic vent cover for the exterior surface.
Back on the inside, I realized a slight change up in the counter wall-cleat had placed the notch off-center, so I had to accommodate.
I made the hole just large enough for the outside diameter of the pipe, but too small for the elbow fitting to push through. That way, once the line is clamped down it makes a nice tight fit - elbow shoulder against wood paneling.
Resulting in this sort of finish.
I plan to install screening over the hole and then the vent cap after the exterior skin of course. And I'll fill the gap with spray foam or caulking as well.
On the inside, once I had the full run modular system built, I located appropriate clamp mount positions and built 1" deep blocks out of 1 by material, pre-drilled the clamp screw holes and the block mounting screw holes, and got them screwed up in place. Then I primered all the fresh wood spots.
I let that dry while I went out and mowed the lawn in between rain events that are affecting us more this year as in so many parts of the country, but fortunately for us, not so severely as in many places.
Here's the DWV under-galley modular unit, built so as to be able to remove easily in the event there is need to dis-assemble the cabinet, just as I have tried to accomplish throughout the camper.
And here it is awaiting installation.
And up in place.
Then with the sink in position.
And the trap installed.
Here we see the drawers back in and the clearances near them.
And a view from the range opening.
The pipe is set back with around 1/2" clearance from the back of the range dimension. The range says 0" clearances on the back and sides from combustibles. Even so. my concern on this particular piece is the rubber Fernco adapter on the right side, so I plan a heat shield around it prior to range insertion.
Notice the rectangular hole in the sidewall near the corner? That's where the original 15 Amp power inlet lived. If all else fails, it will become an outside outlet, because I intend to put a 30 Amp inlet into Lil' Queeny, but at a different spot because the single gang horizontal opening is too wide for today's 30 Amp inlet styles.
But - I ordered a locking gravity-feed water fill hatch that may work here. It would enlarge the hole at least downward, giving the above label screw holes in the siding a purpose ("Potable Water Only" label) and the flexible fill hose (like found on the bathroom sink tail-piece) can come in here just below the galley DWV pipe, exit the interior through a suitable sized hole in the wing, run along the inside, and protected, hidden portion of the jack under-wing metal grid, reenter the camper interior with a straight on shot to the water tank, along with a smaller diameter vent line.
Again, I'd be concerned with the range heat on that small segment of hose, but could quite readily build a heat shield for protection.
I think the main concern will be the depth dimension of the hatch itself, and whether or not there is clearance for it at the DWV pipe. We'll see next week once it arrives.
Once again, I want to thank ticki2 for introducing me to Fernco Connectors. These have made the camper's DWV very slick for my desired applications.
Oh, I also got a second coat of poly on this.
But I noticed a couple of areas that just might require aother buffing and a third, final coat of poly.
