2003 dodge 3500 cummins w/ 6 spd manual reveiws ? comments?

[hertfordnc]

A local dealer has subject truck cheap ($3500) It's completely beat, work truck, smoked in, seats are trashed, bead is beat etc. But it runs great an only has 190K

Does that gearbox help with mileage? What MPG could I expect running empty? That would be a big deciding factor if it was an affordable daily driver and a good trailer puller.

[C_Schomer]

Mine was my only vehicle for 8+ year and I mostly drove it around town so the apps (tps) got a major workout. Just before 60k miles it quit. I mean, one minute fine and the next minute limp mode and irratic throttle but I could drive it home about 60 miles OK. I checked the codes, read the internet, ordered a new one for $169 and fixed it myself. I would NOT let that be a deterrent. It's a cheap easy fix. It also needed a t-stat by 60k and it was a very easy fob. Maint. is easier that a lot of cars cuz the 03-04s have room to work and the CTDs have the cheapest filters of the diesels. Oil and fuel about $13 @. The oem muffler is a terrible choke but that's a DIY fix too. The oem fuel transfer pumps go out - do a search on the fixes. I put an aftermarket on for ~$300. Craig

[ib516]

hertfordnc wrote:
FOr the people who own this truck what is the upkeep like?
I have had a couple Cummins diesels, they are very easy to maintain. Oil and fuel filter changes are about all you need to do regularly. Both are very easy, though the fuel filter does need a 1 and 1/8" socket which most people don't have laying around.

What skill level is required for DIY maintenance? For What routine service would you likely take it to a shop? Nope, spend 15 minutes on YouTube or one of the Cummins forums, and you can get step by step instructions for almost anything.

Besides the engine and transmission, what expensive major components can fail without warning?
Injectors, but they generally give some warning. Might be worth taking it to a diesel shop to get them checked before buying because replacing all 6 will cost about as much as you are going to pay for the truck.

I have a nice reliable 2001 Expedition that pulls my trailer OK but it's at about 85% capacitiy.

It would be nice to head to the mountians in a truck that is at 35% capacity.

There is risk with everything. I choose not to finance new trucks so I have to manage risk accordingly and make sacrifices. In this case I'll sacrifice good looks for a strong reliable truck. Before I buy it i'd take it to a shop and maybe send out for fluid analysis.

But I'd be grateful for more real world advice

You can scan the truck for codes yourself, and check how many hours are on it.

To scan for codes:
Start with key off. Turn to on/run, then off, on/run, off, on/run and leave it there. Do not crank the engine or you will have to start over. Have a pen and paper handy, codes will show up in the odometer.
LIKE THIS

Here's how to check engine hours:
VIDEO

Fuel filter change:
VIDEO

[hertfordnc]

FOr the people who own this truck what is the upkeep like?

What skill level is required for DIY maintenance? For What routine service would you likely take it to a shop?

Besides the engine and transmission, what expensive major components can fail without warning?

I have a nice reliable 2001 Expedition that pulls my trailer OK but it's at about 85% capacitiy.

It would be nice to head to the mountians in a truck that is at 35% capacity.

There is risk with everything. I choose not to finance new trucks so I have to manage risk accordingly and make sacrifices. In this case I'll sacrifice good looks for a strong reliable truck. Before I buy it i'd take it to a shop and maybe send out for fluid analysis.

But I'd be grateful for more real world advice

[rhagfo]

C Schomer wrote:
Mine starts on the second turn. They aren't instant cuz of the sensors. Craig

That and the switch tor CR injection and electronically fired injectors , my 01 starts on about half a crank mechanical (very noise) injectors. I find it embarrassing when I don't hold the key in start long enough (1/4 crank) and it doesn't start. 😮

Good luck with your project.

[C_Schomer]

Mine starts on the second turn. They aren't instant cuz of the sensors. Craig

[hertfordnc]

What is quickly? It doesn't start as quick as my 2001 Expedition but almost.

[C_Schomer]

Make sure it doesn't grind going into rev. Does it start quickly? Craig

[hertfordnc]

Well this is bad (for my marital harmony)

The truck passes the above tests. Running with the oil cap off there is not the slighest whiff of air/ blow by.

Likewise, the air filter is new. The serpentine belt is fairly new. Despite being incredibly dirty all the evididence suggests it was properly maintained.

wish me luck 🙂

[FishOnOne]

Here's a video with blow by. Be very careful with buying a cheap truck that's visually been abused. I would suspect the maintenance has been abused as well and like said earlier, these engines are not cheap.
Good luck...

Blow By

[hertfordnc]

Thanks for the info. An oil analysis would also reveal most of these things, would it not?

I could send a sample to Blackstone.

[crcr]

hertfordnc wrote:
Tell me more about how to evaluate it. The seller is a car dealer I've known for a years. Really a straight shooter but he just got it cheap at the auction and has no info. He said it drove great, even with really crappy tires.

The blow-by test, you're saying that if the engine is running right, good rings, etc, there should be no blow-by at the oil cap?

What else can I look for?

Any tips on how tell if maintenance was done? All of the damage appears to be form work related stuff, dents to the bed, something heavy got dropped on the tailgate, etc.

THanks

Check the air filter. If it is after-market and is filthy, I would run not walk away -- if the engine has been sucking dirt in for some time, it can suddenly get "dusted", which means the engine can suddenly become toast due to nothing more than seldom or never changing or cleaning the filter. If the air filter is stock, and filthy, personally I would still have serious doubts about buying it. Because if any part of that drive train is on the edge, the rig as you described it isn't worth much at all.

Clicky here and watch the video of this 2005 5.9L Dodge. This is an internet dealer about 120 miles from me. He describes how after they bought it from a dealer, the engine died -- it was dusted, due to not changing the air filter! They had to replace the engine before they could sell it.

Good luck!

[hertfordnc]

Tell me more about how to evaluate it. The seller is a car dealer I've known for a years. Really a straight shooter but he just got it cheap at the auction and has no info. He said it drove great, even with really crappy tires.

The blow-by test, you're saying that if the engine is running right, good rings, etc, there should be no blow-by at the oil cap?

What else can I look for?

Any tips on how tell if maintenance was done? All of the damage appears to be form work related stuff, dents to the bed, something heavy got dropped on the tailgate, etc.

THanks

[ib516]

If you can see it run, remove the oil filler cap while its running. Any gasses that are escaping via that hole are from blow by, and that means a worn out engine.

It would be unusual to have a worn out 5.9L Cummins at that odometer reading, but if the rest of the truck is used and abused, chances the owner kept up on oil changes is slim. A 5.9L cummins is not cheap to repair.

[bmanning]

The 305/555 CTD is one of the best balances between power & MPG that you'll ever find.

Sounds like the rest of the truck is "night in jail" rough though. As far as the smoker thing, buy some expensive coffee grounds and put a generous amount under the seats. Sounds goofy but it works.

If you're the type that will enjoy reconditioning it & have a little cash to spend on the necessary TLC you could be onto a steal. I'd think the drivetrain alone in working order is worth the $3500.

Check the frame for heavy rust or signs of damage.