2005 2WD 2500 Ram Crew Cab HD SLT SB Auto Cummins

[Squattingdog]

I am going to look at a few Lances campers this week. Looking for suggestions for those in the know regard what Lance camper 'models' I should be looking at. I'm am more than willing to add air bags, stiffer springs etc., for a safer ride. I would like to be a little more intelligent when looking. If my truck isn't safely capable of doing this, I can live with that answer and will pursue another avenue.

Regards,
-JW:

[mkirsch]

Which camper appeals to you? If you are looking at the 10XX and 11XX series campers, then no, your 2500 Ram is not going to cut it long term, but I listed you two models that would work in your truck perfectly well, and explained why in what I thought were simple terms most anyone could understand.

Am I just not making any sense at all?

[Squattingdog]

Being completely new to cab over type campers I was simply here for suggestions since I was clueless. As someone mentioned in this thread, I see campers on truck everywhere and thought my truck would handle just about anything. Obviously I was delusional on my trucks towing abilities. Thinking that a Ram 2500 diesel was a huge upgrade over a 1500. Thanks for all the suggestions. I really liked the Lance campers I looked at (not that other brands wouldn't be just as nice). Looks like I have the wrong rig for the the cab over camper that appeals to me.

Regards ...

[Kayteg1]

JimK-NY wrote:


A COG behind the rear axle is never a good thing. A small difference might not mean much but as the COG moves back, steering and handling can be affected.

All >11 ft campers have COG behind rear axle on long bed.
I am pretty religious about putting heavy items inside truck cabin and only light stuff in rear cabinets, yet scales show that camper took 200 lb from front axle.
Truck drives very well with this design, as occasionally I was tailgating semitrailers at 75 mph (mpg behind semi was the same what alone at 60 mph) and never had handling issue, but that was with dually.
Than 200lb of waste water in rear tank did make big difference in handling.

[Grit_dog]

Ha ha.... you guys couldn’t agree on what to have for breakfast, much less campers!
Doesn’t help when OP is uninformed yet opinionated on the very same.

[mkirsch]

Plan on getting 19.5 rims and tires.

Why? I listed two Lance models that the truck can easily carry with stock tires, even considering additional "stuff."

If he were to expand his search beyond Lance, there are plenty of other models out there that can easily be hauled with a stock 2500.

Will they be huge 11' triple-slide McMansions? No. They will be a compromise.

Oh, and read your camper loading guide a little closer. The measurements for the "A" and "B" points of the COG range are the front and rear edge of the truck's box.

[JimK-NY]

Maybe some others understand, but I absolutely none of your comments make any sense to me.

I got a camper loading guide with my Dodge Ram. The guide is very simple. It shows what we know to be the case. The center of gravity of the camper needs to be forward of the rear axle. I also have a COG diagram for my Northstar camper. The diagram shows the expected location of COG for the wet camper without added cargo. Obviously adding cargo can move the COG. Ideally I load heavy items as low and as far forward as possible.

A COG behind the rear axle is never a good thing. A small difference might not mean much but as the COG moves back, steering and handling can be affected. In addition there is already an issue with the weight on the rear axle and transferring additional weight from the front to the rear axle is not desirable. This is true for loading all trucks whether the load is from a camper or just cargo in the truck bed. It would be analogous to loading a trailer with a negative tongue weight.

[996Pilot]

JimK-NY wrote:
Y In addition to the CCC issue, you have a short bed truck. That makes carrying a camper even more difficult. The center of gravity needs to be several inches forward of the rear axle and that is difficult with a short bed.

You've mentioned this on several occasions however looking at the factory RAM Camper Loading Guide and fooling with the "A" and "B" dimensions given in the factory guide, all (fairly recent) RAM short bed models have a CG envelope from several inches in front of the (rear) axle to 4-7 inches behind the rear axle. Even the shaded CG area in the diagram (RAM factory) show a CG envelope approximately the outer diameter of the rear tire (front and back). Diesel models generally allow a further rear CG than gas (probably due to the +800# Cummins hangin up front) and all diesel models show rear CG aft of the rear axle.

Not all trucks are created equal

[Squattingdog]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. A new truck isn't in the picture. I'm still going to look at the Lance campers. I'll probably stuck with my travel trailer.

Regards,
-SD:

[JimK-NY]

The issues just never end. Unfortunately 17 inch rims are the worst! The highest load tires for that rim size will have a load capacity of 3200 pounds. That pretty much guarantees you will be at or beyond tire load capacity with virtually any 8 foot hard sided camper. I did that for a while. In addition to the safety issue being fully loaded will mean short tire life. You will also have ballooning of the tires which means the sidewalls are likely to be cut on a gravel road. Plan on getting 19.5 rims and tires.

[Kayteg1]

You already have direct answer from owner of similar set.
Unless you come with precise weight numbers, you really will not know, but I don't think you should have illusion that you will be on safe side.
Coming to truck modifying - adding air bags is cheap and I am the one who did not have sway problems with it, but when you read forum archives - lot of owners after spending thousand$$$ on safety and reliability modification, most of the time ended selling smaller truck and buying bigger.
There is a limit for how long you can take white knuckles driving.

[Squattingdog]

mkirsch wrote:
As usual, someone will jump on these threads and start calling people who try to describe how you would go about this "by the book" as WEIGHT POLICE.

Like I said in the beginning, I just wanted to look at the Lance campers this week (actually today now) that my truck could safely handle. I suppose I should of said 'with modifications'. I honestly thought that a end-user would be on the forum that has my exact truck. I have Michelin Defender LTX M/X 265/70R17 on my truck now. I don't mind putting heavier leaf springs on the truck, air-bags or any other suspension modifications whatsoever if that's the route to go, in stead of buying another truck. Even though I would be new to hauling a camper in my truck I actually expected to do all of those things.

As far as tires go I'm open to changing those as well, even the stock rims. Not sure about the 19's. Not sure I would want to destroy my MPG but I realize it will decrease. I pull a 26' trailer now so I understand the MPG drops.

I'm not transmission savvy. The automatic w/OD I have now seems to be fine so far. I did put a Mag-Hytec 727 double deep transmission pan on when I first bought the truck. I would be clueless to what sort of transmission mods would be needed (if necessary) and more importantly who I would take it to. I'm sure that would be pretty expensive as well.

-SD:

[mkirsch]

As usual, someone will jump on these threads and start calling people who try to describe how you would go about this "by the book" as WEIGHT POLICE.

It hurts NOBODY to know how you're "supposed" to do it before you decide to throw the numbers to the wind and do whatever you want anyway. At least the OP can make an educated decision. If he just wanted to guess, he could go to the dealer and let them blow smoke up his butt... He certainly would not be here.

The reality is, going by factory GVWR, your truck probably only has about 1500lbs of cargo carrying capacity. Pickup trucks are heavy. Diesel engines are heavy. It's a very simple thing to find out for yourself: Fill the fuel tank and take the truck to a scale. GVWR - actual weight = cargo capacity.

Ok, many people know anecdotally that a 2500 series pickup truck is more capable than a mere 1500lbs, even without suspension upgrades or tires. This is where you, the OP, needs to decide if you believe the people who make these claims. You don't know any of us from Adam. You don't know if we could tell the difference between a poor-handling truck and a rutabaga. For all you know we could be a bunch of Internet trolls goading you into going out and wasting a whole bunch of money, just so we can laugh at you.

Now, if you go to your tire ratings, they should be around 3100lbs each, and if you look at the white sticker on the inside of your driver's door frame, you will see that your rear axle rating is around 6100-6200lbs. From your weight ticket, you'll notice your rear end weighs about 2800-3000lbs empty.

Since nearly all of the camper's weight goes on the rear axle, that gives you 3000-3400lbs of camper capacity with the factory suspension and factory tires.

Keep in mind, though, that has to include EVERYTHING, not just the empty camper.

Since your truck is a short bed, the Lance models you can choose from are the 650, 825, 855S, and 865.

- The 825 has a listed "wet" weight of 2155lbs which includes fresh water, propane, battery, and leaves you quite a bit of capacity for your stuff and even a trailer. With just the camper you shouldn't even need any suspension mods on your truck.
- The 855S wet weight is over 3300lbs, leaving you with negative capacity. Hope you like camping alone, naked, and hungry... It's a heavy camper due to the slide.
- The 865 wet weight is 2330lbs, which again leaves you some wiggle room for camping stuff. With some minor suspension modifications and upgraded tires you could even tow a trailer.

The 855S is even a possibility if you go extreme on your modifications. This includes 19.5" commercial tires which have capacities in excess of 4000lbs each. Airbags, F350 springs... The possibilities are endless when it comes to beefing up the suspension.

[burningman]

towpro wrote:
the thing missed about the exhaust brake is its not support in automatic equiped trucks until the 2006 model year. 2005 requires a box to modify the convertor lockup times, and there might be another device needed to keep trans pressures higher to prevent clutch slippage while exhaust brake in in use with lower RPM's.

Any earlier model Dodge auto doing any towing or hauling really needs a better torque converter and valve body anyway (actually a fully “built” transmission, the stock 47re is weak but can be fixed bulletproof).
Then all you need to control lockup is a switch. I use a headlight dimmer type floor button. There’s no “box” needed.

[Coblue]

Back to the OP's question about which Lance model, I have a similar truck (2006 4WD with SuperSprings and Big Wig anti-roll bar) and a camper similar to the 825. That camper is as big and heavy as I would want to go on this truck when you consider all the stuff you are likely to bring along.

[towpro]

the thing missed about the exhaust brake is its not support in automatic equiped trucks until the 2006 model year. 2005 requires a box to modify the convertor lockup times, and there might be another device needed to keep trans pressures higher to prevent clutch slippage while exhaust brake in in use with lower RPM's.