2006 Gulfstream Cavalier (i.e. FEMA trailer) Remodel

[mickeycool42]

Hello Everyone,

First off please, please, please do not tell me what a ****py camper I have. I know how badly I got ripped off. But, this is what I have so I will repair it rather than have nothing.

So with that out of the way,

I have a 2006 Gulfstream Cavalier (i.e. FEMA trailer) and it needs a complete remodel. Currently demolishing the inside, then it will be covered for the winter and as soon as it warms up, the roof is going to be removed and rebuilt, then we will rebuild the inside a piece at a time.

My first request is this, does anyone know if the walls inside the camper are partition or load bearing, or how to find out. I really want to expand the bedroom and the bathroom, but not at the expense of caving the roof in.

My second request is can someone sum up the pros and cons and steps of redoing a roof with sheet rubber versus liquid rubber.

My third request is this, can someone who has redone the gutter system on a fema trailer tell me what you did?

BTW, I know that the whole roof is a shabby design including the gutters, just wondering about someone else's success.

Thank you very much,
Mickeycool42

[westend]

I've been there but had an old Starcraft to start with instead of a FEMA. Yours can't be any worse than mine. I could put my arm through certain parts of the siding and see the road through the wheel wells.
All of the renovation is in this thread: The Cowboy/Hilton.

When planning any work like roof repair or wall repair, I'd suggest to tear it apart slowly to see what you have. My roof (aluminum) leaked in many locations and some roof trusses were rotted at the ends, not supporting anything. I also had a lot of framing to repair. I didn't need to replace the whole roof because it only leaked at the edge joint to the walls (typical). The roof was resealed by using Eternabond tapes over all the seams. If you find it's necessary to remove the whole roof membrane and replace a lot of the roof decking, I'd suggest to replace the whole membrane with a new piece of EPDM (rubber). That will be cheaper and more durable than the liquid stuff.

If I had one piece of advice to give you it would be to draw out plans for framing, plumbing, electrical, and how you want to locate everything else. The plans don't have to be anything special but it will help a lot when things start going back together. I only missed an outlet for the fridge and covered a wall switch location but it's no fun tearing out your new work when you find something's missing or a new cabinet doesn't fit. The drawings will also alert you to the schedule of what needs to go back in next or before something else gets done.

Some things learned:The factory work is sloppy. I've built better doghouses than some of my trailer. When the mfg can cut a corner or use an inferior material, they will. Insulation and new triple pane windows pay for themselves in energy costs and add greatly to the comfort. Watch your weights, you may add some when renovating and you want it balanced at the end.

The really great thing about stripping and rebuilding is that you can design the interior just the way you want it. Since you will be adding holding tanks, you can locate plumbing and fixtures anywhere you wish. The same thought goes for cabinetry and beds, locate them where you want them. Add countertops, there is never enough.

If you have any questions or need some help, post it up here and add some pictures of what you're doing, please. If you have complex questions, send me a PM, I'll be happy to help.
Best of luck with your project.

[mickeycool42]

Thanks barney for the links. The liquid rubber I found said it could be used directly on wood, is this false?

Thanks for the uplifting comments about not having a crappy camper. I don't feel like I do, but when reading many threads about FEMA trailers, there were a lot of people who had a negative opinion about these campers and couldn't wait to voice it, just wanted to avoid that drama. But trust me I still got ripped off for what I bought, but it has been and will be even more worth it in the future. I say this mainly, b/c the camper had some leakage issues from the get go that we were told were repaired, and with in the first year both the ac and the heat went out.

Anyways, the camper has some pretty severe leaks, at this point I am assuming both wall and roof. And there is a whole lot of mold growing on.
So far we have removed the built in furniture, cabinetry, closets and part of the interior walls. We are going to tear apart the inside, clean it out, cover it and in the spring put on a new roof. We are completely redesigning the bathroom and kitchen living area. Then it will be awesome!!

[jessjosh61]

What's making you want to rebuilt the roof? Is it leaking, or are you doing that to head off trouble in the future?

I personally wouldn't say you got a crappy camper. Those trailers can give you a lot of space in a camper for very little money compared to other trailers. If it gives you a foundation to build the trailer you want, you'll probably come out ahead when you are done.

[Prowler_guy]

Someone re-did the roof on our old Prowler and the used a single thick piece of aluminum. Not the thin **** that they use on PUPs but an actual decent sheet. Might be something to think about if a good price can be found.

[BarneyS]

If you are going to completely redo the roof, do not use the liquid rubber product. That is for coating existing rubber roofs and not as a stand alone rubber roofing product. I used it a couple of years ago and posted about it here, with pictures.

I would contact a company such as this one and order what I needed. They have everything you would need to do your roof properly.

Good luck on your re-build project. 🙂 Please keep us updated on how things are going as you do it.
Barney

[DownTheAvenue]

Exterior walls only are load bearing. Roof trusses are used so any interior walls are not load bearing and can be moved. If the rubber roof is intact, then a coating can be used. The rubber roof is manufactured by Dicor, and any coating must be compatible or damage may be done to the membrane, the glue holding the membrane to the roof decking, and/or the coating will just peel off. Th gutter system is just screwed into the side. Simply unscrew and peel off.

Those FEMA trailers were built like most any RV but many had residential refrigerators and toilets and no holding tanks. Many were ultimately purchased at a great price with little needed to fix up. You may well have a good trailer at a great price.